TFaoro

Nice looking truck! What size of leveling kit do you have?

Didn't want to leave this thread open ended. I got the u joints put in on Tuesday and the driveline back in last night. Talk about a pita to get the centering ball lined up with the driveline and a 2 new u joint! I did get the greaseable style and was pleased to see this type of zerk. I don't think I'll have any trouble with it catching debris. (Plus it's protected by the skid plate)

Valid point!! Although my egt probe has been 1600+ and hasn't melted off yet

Actually both the fitting and the hole are tapered. At least I used a npt tap.

Are you leaking between the gear case and the block at all?

Only difference could be the High output versus the standard output. All 6 speed manual transmissions were high outputs, all other trucks (5 speed and auto) were standard output, but I believe they are interchangeable

I use a pen magnet to retrieve the shavings in the manifold

Good lookin trucks lightnin! Come on this isn't a show! Just throw pics up whenever . Dad's 12v

There is NO NEED to take it off and take it to someone. The drilling and tapping is very easy and straight forward. Some leave the engine running so that the chips blow out as you drill it, but most just put a dab of grease on the bit then use a small magnet to take the chips out. When tapping do the exact same thing... Little bit of grease on the bit, tap it, then clean the chips out with a small magnet. I've drilled and tapped mine twice, my brothers once, and my neighbors. (None of them running) If you really have your heart set on removing the manifold you will need the gaskets between the head and manifold, the gasket between the manifold and the turbo, and the gasket for the oil return on the turbo. No gasket needed between the downpipe and turbo.

I thought we could get a thread started over here where we could post pictures of our trucks for everyone to see. I know we can post them in the garage but I thought we could have a spot to throw up pictures so let's see them! Maybe if we get enough pictures being put up Mike will sticky it.

If the check engine light is on, there have to be codes in there. What scanner are you using?

I believe the #9 fuse inside the cab (Left side of the dash) Will kill the truck. You can pull that out and it can't be started. EDIT: Just tested it. #9 prevents the ecm from coming on. It works perfect

EZ if you can't control yourself and don't like the cost of the comp. Comp if you plan to make more power later.

Any luck? Hoping it's not the VP for your sake

Where did you end up getting the plastic bushing? Sorry if I missed it

Everything looks good inside! I will bookmark that for future reference though. Thank you. What are everyone's thoughts on the greaseable U joints (It greases through one of the caps not the center) Think it could help the joint live a long and healthy life or will cause problems?

Question: Should I go ahead and put a new centering ball kit in while I have it apart? I feel like it's a good idea - I don't want to tear into this thing again (I'm thinking about replacing the good U joint while I'm in there too) On an unrelated note my brother and I discovered how much pressure a stock 05 intercooler can handle.... a little over 60 psi and it blew the side off!! Makes my repair seem cheap

I've spoken with managers at multiple stations and all I get is "The truckers come and dump it. We don't add anything to it." Now my station back home in Penrose Colorado I know puts additive in (I worked there for a couple summers and Christmas brakes.) It comes in a red 55 gallon drum, and it gets poured in whenever a delivery is made. I guess these guys in Denver just can't do that.

FOUND IT!!!! Ok I was crawling around under it and could not find anything loose. I pulled on everything, pried on everything and still could not figure out what could be doing it. So I said screw it and pulled the front driveshaft out. Behold a U joint is out! Now it wasn't out like most I see where the needles are gone and it clunks, but rather it moves A LOT side to side inside the caps. Anyone ever seen this?? I will be going to a buddies house who has a vice to get the new one installed. I tried to do it in the parking lot by myself with a hammer and sockets, but could not get one of the caps to break loose. I'm hoping this is it!

So mixing them is OK just don't add too much 2 stroke? I have to add my own PS (The white bottle) just to keep my fuel from gelling. Adding the 2 stroke in normal ratios brings the lubricating properties back to the ulsd numbers and I should be good right?

Well did it show up!?!?!?!?

Mike you never fully answered my hypothesis....

I believe only the 6.7L 200* thermostat will work in these trucks. I run a Napa 190* and average 23.xx on the highway. I considered it myself but the summers here get pretty hot so I'm going to stick with the 190

So I understand that they negate each other in both cetane and how well it lubes, but if it prevents gelling I don't see why you wouldn't do it? Would the 2 stroke make the fuel gel? Our snowmobile oil flows pretty well even down at -25F. I guess what I'm saying is if I were to add PS to prevent gelling I know it lowers the HFRR... Well if I add 2 stroke it pulls the HFRR back up to 'normal' level and the tank still doesn't gel I consider that a win. Am I way off here??

This was taken back in 2010. It's a 1952 "Super" McCormic W9 (4 cylinder 350 cubic inch). Restored by my father and I. When I got it the head had been sitting off for 29 years.