TFaoro

I had terrible luck with Blue Chip... But if you want that 2 year warranty I can't blame you! Seems like your truck is a VP eating machine

Cold, hot, anywhere in-between... Doesn't really matter engine temperature or exhaust temperature wise.

I used this method on a Common Rail truck recently http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/ARP%20Head%20Stud%20Installation.pdf There were too many threads over on CF talking about blowing the gasket after the stud install if multiple re-torques weren't done. Ok.. 1 you should not need a chaser as the threads are pretty much protected from the elements (Under the valve cover) and the exhaust side bolts seemed to be sealed on the Common rail I worked on. We were able to tighten them down by hand until they bottomed out then back out 1/2 turn. 2. No I do not believe any of the studs protrude into the water jacket. They say you can use loctite if yo don't ever plan on removing the studs, but I don't believe it is necessary. If you blow a head gasket it makes it a PITA to remove the studs. Once again we did not use any. 3. Yes. Going by Glacier's instructions we tightened them until the bottomed out, backed them out 1/2 of a turn and held the stud in place while hand tightening the nut. 4. For torquing check out the link above 5. Using Glacier's instructions is extremely time consuming and physically demanding, but well worth it to not blow the head gasket out. If you can get a couple guys together to do the torquing and releasing on each stud. Tip: Make sure when you loosen the nut that the stud doesn't back out!! The truck we did this to has been running 60 psi for a couple weeks now with no problems. Ask away if you have any more questions!

Good call. I think I will try the "Hot Wire" method to see if the engine idles smooth when there aren't any inputs from the rest of the truck

I see what you are saying now! Filter is not an issue as I only have the fass 95 with no filters (Using only the stock filter) I will get a piece of clear line and give that a go before I yank the VP off.

When the vehicle is stock, the HO produces 10 more HP. When you try to make big power (450+) the HO falls on it's face. The plungers in it are too small and can not push much more fuel than 450 HP worth.

I thought he was hinting at my VP.... If it was lack of air I would think there would be noticeable black smoke.

I would like to see what they would do to your stock transmission

I replaced all 6 with a drilled out set... That didn't change anything, so I stuck the originals back in. ( I had bought 2 NEW ones and left one of the new ones in the #1 cylinder when I swapped back to the originals) I guess I can go swap out the 1 new one I have left with each of the 5 old ones one at a time and see if it makes a difference, but I doubt it will.

I swapped ED's injectors in today...A big thank you to him once again! But my problem persists as there was almost no change in the sound. If anything the larger injectors may have amplified the problem a bit.

Careful with blue chip... They have changed since Chip handed the company over to Doug

Fancy engine dressup. I saw maybe a 50 degree drop in egts when I installed mine. You can spend your money elsewhere for better gains

This forum is unique... I don't see any members on CF willing to trust someone with a set of injectors. A big thanks to everyone here who has contributed to this forum and this thread. I have learned more here than I have anywhere else! If anyone is in need of a compression test don't be afraid to ask. I will loan it out to anyone in need. It'll probably just collect dust for the next couple years.

One VERY generous member on this site (If he want's to come forward I'll let him do that himself) has offered to send me a NEW set of injectors that he has yet to install. I should get around to installing them this weekend or early in the week to find out if the injectors are the cause! Once I find out I'll send him his injectors back. This way I don't have any down time and I'll know where to look next. Thanks again to that member!!!

Thanks for the tips guys! Sorry I have been away for the holiday. If I do anything with the VP it will be sent to Industrial Injection to be tested. I will not just replace it for the heck of it. I will likely hold out on the VP and send the injectors in to be tested over Christmas. I'm not sure why changing from one hole to the other didn't make a difference though?? I took it to a guy who owned a diesel shop for years and he said it sounds like an injection knock. On a positive note I drove back to school today and netted 23.6 mpg (Distance was calculated using a GPS) It was about 30 miles at 65mph 50 miles at 77mph and the rest at 70. That is my best mileage to date.. Even better than the 90hp injectors! Oh and forgot to mention the first 50 miles I had a HARD head wind to fight.

I guess I'll send the injectors out during Christmas. I may do the VP at the same time... No the kit did not come with the slug. Here is where I got my slug https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=STATU-15-27

Results: I cranked the engine over for 4 seconds with a timer for each cylinder 1- 410 2-415 3-400 4-410 5-400 6-410 Compression looks good for all of them. As for the leak down I have one cylinder that has a very small leak coming out of the intake when at 100psi. It also sounds like it is gurgling a bit so I think there is oil leaking down on it. None of this points to a problem that would cause a miss like it has though. I may look at some new valve seals but I'll have to see. Any ideas guys?

Heading out this morning to compression test all 6 and do a leak down test on all 6!

DUH That was dumb of me. I will get that completed tomorrow and report back!

Ok guys I got #1 and #4 compression tested. #1 had right around 440 psi and #4 had somewhere around 430 psi and I plan to test all of them tomorrow. But from the looks of it number 1 is ok. I am also going to leak down test each cylinder but I'm not sure how to hold the engine still without a baring tool? Any ideas??

The problems start here... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1134602-grey-goat-build-thread-7.html Here are the results I guess you can call them http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1134602-grey-goat-build-thread-14.html

Fuel Lab doesn't like the lift pump "Bump" that the 2nd gens do. Look up the grey goat build on cummins forum

ED is just being a smart A$$ about the wingnuts..... He's saying be prepared to replace it quickly and often. OP go with Fass. They make a high quality pump that has a great mounting system!

I'm interested to see how the heater works out for you! I have been running the white bottle Power Service and haven't gelled in the last couple weeks. The time I did gel I think it had a little over half of a tank of summer fuel (Since painting took 10 weeks!) I have a feeling my truck will end up parked until summer though....

It says it's in there... But I can't tell which one. I've got the gauge with me and the slug is supposed to come in Monday. Tuesday night I will know the condition of the internals! On a side note I put the original crossover tubes back in tonight and it has lessened how harsh the motor sounded. Before when the grids would kick in it would make the motor lope a and now it's smooth.