TFaoro

Does anyone know of a good place to buy stainless grade 8 studs to mount the turbo?

Smarty is perfect for a bump in performance and great for MPG gains! I used to get around 18 tops, and with my new 100hp injectors and the smarty set to level 1 i have seen 23 a couple times.

Those are for the rich! But they are riddled with electronics, which I don't prefer. On my brother's 05 you can't even unplug the intake air temp sensor without having to shoot dielectric grease in it and fiddle with it for 3 days trying the get the check engine light to go out!

I'm not sure if all of them do it... My smarty with timing maxed out doesn't rattle at all. As for temperature with the comp, I have ED's high idle, so IAT is at 143 at all times. A colder motor does make the rattle worse, but it is still noticeable at 190 deg. Now the battery temperature.... what is the purpose of this? I do notice my alternator charges at a higher voltage when it's colder??? Does this directly affect the timing of the engine as well?

I think a lot of trucks rattle like that with a comp. To me it sounds like there is a big change in timing causing the rattle, then when the boost comes on the rattle goes away

When I have the turbo to stack mine again I'll be contacting you to see how you tuned it. Thanks!

Not to derail the thread, but do you guys ever notice how fast the timing kicks in when the sublevel is on 5? If I mash the go petal from a stop you can hear when the timing kicks in, it feels like it maybe loses a bit of power, smokes a lot, (engine is noisier from the timing change) then it spools, clears up and sounds good.

Could it just be the turbo winding down after shutdown? In that case there is no problem!

College student = NO MONEY haha I can weld though! I wonder if Jacob would give me the dimensions??

Yeah the 80 page write up... I've read every page, but there is never a specific way to do what I want in there.

No worries. I'm trying to do the same. I'm going to order a downpipe from stainless diesel or DAP, then I'll clock the housing and have to chop up my pipe to the intercooler or build a whole new one. Then I'll have to build a bracket to mount the wastegate actuator to. Other than that I think the swap should be fairly painless!

Very nice! I bet some guys would love to see a full write up on that. When are you planning on starting?

How are you planning on controlling the veins? Mine is a cw (fixed geometry) Can't beat free!

Thanks for the help gentlemen! I've made my decision and I guess I'll just have to keep a stash under my mattress just in case it decides to go out on me. I know the gelling problem didn't extend the life of my vp, but it did have some fuel going into it... a little coming out of the line. As for cranking it I doubt it turned over more than 1000 times without full pressure?? That shouldn't have hurt much or anything. We hear about people running down the road with out any pressure every day! The added power is great! Far exceeded my expectations with the new injectors. I have the wire tap on a quick disconnect spade connector just in case someone else has to drive my truck. Now I just need to get my he351cw bolted up and see if I can get the EGTs to drop down a bit! (BTW this is the best forum on the net!!!)

Thank you for your input! Anyone else??

Thanks for the input guys! Exactly what I was looking for.. real world experience. Please anyone else feel free to chime in and share your experience!

Thank you, but you have told me this before... I just want your opinion on whether I should tap it please!

They say tapping the wire would void my warranty

I just want to get everyone's thoughts on tapping my injection pump. From what I've read, if the pump is going to fail from being re-manufactured improperly it will fail within the first month or couple thousand miles. I've had my industrial injection on since Christmas and have had Zero issues. I have a stealth plate, but they can still see the pricked wire when it's torn apart, and they can see the top bolts have been removed ( Probably voiding the warranty ). I'll probably be putting my he351cw on in the beginning of June and I think the comp, 100's and turbo would match really well. Let me know what your thoughts are! Thanks in advance

Definitely costs less than a block! If I had a 53 I'd give it a try.

I would like to see a write up if you don't mind!

When I had my VP out I pulled every plug I could find on my truck and filled it with dielectric grease. They wouldn't have to put all the crap on the road if people would just slow down and drive with some sense!

I would say toss up between alternator, bad sensors, and bad connections. You should fill out your sig so we know what you have!

Just thought I would throw my experience in there... I replaced mine and still had a small leak off the back side of the engine. I drove it that way for a month at school because I didn't have to tools to do it again. A month later I came home, tore it apart in the morning and found the bottom corner had come part way out of the groove of the cover. Not a big deal, so I buttoned it up again. Later that day I found it leaking out of the same spot! I took it back apart again and found cover itself was slightly bowed away from the engine. I GENTLY massaged it back straight, bent around the bolt holes out a little bit to provide a tighter seal, and buttoned it back up. Now I am leak free, but if you have yours apart check to see if it is bowed at all... Doing it 3 times in a month and twice in a day sucks!

I second DAP! Love my injectors. Picked up a couple mpg, greatly increased power, and drastically lowered engine noise.