TFaoro

Manifold and the 75 rebuild kit showed up yesterday afternoon. I think I'll slap the stock injectors back in it for now so I can do some testing on the coolant system. I'm having a really hard time figuring out where to run the hose coming from the back of the block. I guess I'll just hook everything up and see where the open space is.

16-1800 egts gets it there pretty quick. Talking from experience haha. I'm sure @jlbayes has had the same experience. Close.... I'm going to use the quad fuel pressure sensor! 0-100 should be good!

if you can do it without burning up the box I don't see why not!

The thermostat "should" be open, but how much is it open? Wasn't it 209 or something like that when it's fully open? So your engine temp is at 195 with a 190 cracking pressure. A linear"ish" curve leaves it open ~36%. Idk what kind of normal flow would be coming out or at what pressure it's coming out. I am going to test one of the front ports to see how much pressue is up there.

http://www.engineered-diesel.com/thermostat-spacer-for-coolant-bypass-e-d-billet-black-anodized-24v-cummins-5-9l-6-7l-1998-5-present No groove for the thermostat to sit in here?? Other kits splice the upper rad hose.... I've done lots of homework, and because that's on the "pressure" side of the pump I don't think it would work well. Basically you wouldn't get bypass unless the thermostat was open. Picture of the engine bay? I'm still working on placement. Mine may run under the manifold, but we'll see.

I'd just screw it all the way in. You might consider checking the turbo for play / rubbing as well.

Do you have a boost elbow in the HX35?

Watts 530C is what I see most commonly on DIY setups. The biggest problem with it is you can only set it down to 50psi. No lower. http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6821 Aquatrol series 55 can be set as low as 10psi. http://aquatrol.com/charts/Capacity-69.pdf (look at the bottom) http://aquatrol.com/charts/Series69.pdf (sizing chart) Mine will feed into a spacer that goes between the block and thermostat housing. The thermostat stays in the block though, so the antifreeze will be pushed straight back into the radiator (That's how most are setup that I can find.) So if it opens early, the coolant will circulate back through the radiator and not allow the engine to warm up. Gotta walk that fine line. EDIT: I will also be installing an inline tap like fuel systems have for a pressure gauge. I'll stick my quad 0-100psi fuel pressure gauge into it and know the pressures while I dial everything in.

Probably cut a hole in the hood, because hood stack is LIFE

I'd drop a set of injectors in it that'll keep you around your goal power number. 50-75hp range is where I'd go but that's just me. Stock head gaskets on these hold up pretty well under some extreme conditions. Yes it's a good idea at some point, but I wouldn't even be thinking about it. If it were my truck at 63K I'd put a dual disc clutch in it, a 62/68/(12 or 14), studs, springs, pushrods, 125hp injectors, quad V2, fass 150 with Vulcan modified module, and run it.

It's the MAP code from it not being connected. It won't hurt performance or anything as long as it is connected now. Either have someone clear the code or just run it until the CEL shuts itself off.

Those were some numbers I was finding as well. I just don't want it opening at highway speeds (80mph = 22-2300 rpm) so I need to know those pressures to keep it closed during normal operation. If it opens above ~2400 rpm or so I'll be plenty happy. I also can't find a valve that I can set the pressures on. Looks like the only one I can find you have to tell them the pressure you want it set at before you order it.

Technically it affects every electrical component in the truck. The most vital parts are the ones it affects most though. (ECM, PCM, PSG)

Until you set a tune and run a couple tanks through it, I don't think you'll be able to get accurate readings from your OBD. I saw the same thing from my SGII.

I agree with the cold motor, but I don't. Mine doesn't even like to move unless water temps are above 100*. I agree with the heat as well, but a thermostat won't be able to relieve that pressure as fast as a pressure relief will. And if there isn't enough flow through the tiny holes in the thermostat it won't get hot enough to open. I agree with a thermostat potentially being better for a towing/constant load situation. I've read that as well, but many of the threads say an electric pump is horrible for reliability. Check the link I posted above. But if you think about the situation I described above, the thermostat wouldn't have time to open before the pressure spiked dangerously high. Now that I have a little bit of data I need to figure out what pressure I want the valve set at. Also have to remember the higher the pressure the higher the flow. Cracking pressure is very little flow.

I'm fully confident in your engineering capabilities, so I don't think it's your ability that's lacking but rather the collective knowledge of the cooling system itself. I can honestly say I don't know exactly how everything flows. The weird thing is some people never have issues while others will repetitively blow freeze plugs if the pressure isn't bypassed. Have a look at the videos in the first post of this thread. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-performance-parts-discussion/569921-i-tested-pressure-6-coolant-port.html

I've thought about it, but heat doesn't blow out freeze plugs.... pressure does. I'd like a system that doesn't open unless pressure is above a certain threshold. With a thermostat, pressure could still build in the back of the block/head. As an example, if I go down a long hill and coolant temps drop to 180 then I floor it to 3600rpm with egts over 1600* the temp at the thermostat may never reach 200* but pressures could spike excessively high. That's just my reasoning though. Please feel free to share your thoughts! I'm always open to gaining more knowledge. I personally think the 4" block in the rear was a huge mistake, but I'd have to agree with the rest.

I wouldn't own one if that engine wasn't in it -__- Some engines have the oil fill cap on the wrong end, so you have to be careful of that if you're looking for one. They can not be bought new anymore either. I ordered a manifold, gaskets, mounting bolts, paid for the injectors to be rebuilt, and bought a rebuild kit for the 75. I'll also be building a coolant bypass while everything is apart. I'm working on figuring out what pressure I need a valve to be at. More to come on that later.

The industrial looks way better IMO. Especially when they're cleaned up right. I remade the mounting bracket for the primary turbo this weekend, cleaned up both exhaust housings and painted them, and re-shined my secondary compressor housing.

Have you tried 3cyl mode? Setting the fooler to 6cyl mode will make it think the engine is warmer and drop timing some. The lower timing could make it smoke a touch, but again with stock injectors I highly doubt it. Now in 3cyl mode the timing should be higher than normal, making less smoke. that was bad. I'm glad I convinced you to let OEM timing have its way until the engine warms up!

Well you let me rip my truck apart so I haven't been able to find any issues....... yet! Let me think on it. Heading to the mountains tomorrow for some snowmobiling. Fresh mountain air always brings about some ideas. Maybe you need to move into the app development realm

Does it matter if it's genuine or not? The two kits they have are either aftermarket with a "stock" thrust and aftermarket with a 360* thrust. http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-super-kit-65451/ http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-360-6-pad-thrust-upgrade-64050-1/

You have Remember when I texted you about it when @trreed was having that issue. You said you talked to him about the bug. You're so busy you don't remember the good stuff you do anymore! Yes, android is working as it should in that respect. To the bolded part I have NO idea. Both of the android phones I use are working properly and my iPad has it as well. You did download the APK from this forum and not the app store / play store correct?

That is a known bug that @Me78569 has contacted Spencer (quad) about.

I think this is the opposite of what you're saying haha. So at very low load the timing is up high, then as you load the truck it retards timing in that middle range, then when load comes up high (lots of fuel) the timing increases again. At least that's how I think it works. Nick correct me if I'm wrong please. I do agree, you will need significantly lower timing than me. For reference mine is happy at 20.5* at 70mph, which is right about 2K rpm. I would expect mine to like about 22 at 75-80mph which I think is around 2300rpm. I've yet to drive the truck on the freeway since all of these updates though.