TFaoro

Thanks! I've got a few things left to buy: Starter contacts & plunger (Larry B's) 12v tappet cover (ebay), Breather catch can (VMS racing), oil cap(War Eagle found me a good one), vacuum pump seals (?????), and PS pump (warranty). Anyone know the best place to buy vacuum pump seals??

It's 151 pounds dry... I just weighed mine.

Picked up the block, head, and rebuild kit. Also the rest of the goodies came in the mail! Pictures to come tomorrow. I think the engine is going to look good!

These motors will burn just about whatever you put through them. TCW3 is just tried and true.

with the issues I've had this last year and having a new motor I'd prefer not to guinea pig for anything!

It's there near all of the engine oils. It should come in 16oz bottles as well!

Probably because it's cheap and does a great job lubricating the fuel system, at least that's why I do.

Do some reading on them! It's very interesting how they work to keep the harmonic vibrations out of the engine. If you would like to pay I do accept donations! as always, you're welcome!

and much more to come! Fluidampr Studs Cam gear retainer

This is not supposed to add cetane like the others do, at least that's what I read.

As do I, but this looks like it could be better and cheaper.

Check this one out. Looks like it would be cheaper than 2 stroke and lube even better than XDP. http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xl-diesel-fuel-improver/diesel-fuel-improver-xl.html http://opti-lube.com/downloads/intertektesting.pdf

In the top right corner click your user name, then click the "my settings" From there you will see signature on the left side. Just click and fill it in! As for the injectors, I don't hear good reviews about DDP. Everyone says they are pretty smokey. If you go with DAP injectors (Which I personally like) go with the 125hp sac style.

First off welcome to the forum!! Please go in and fill out your signature so we know EVERYTHING about your truck. We like to know every little detail so that we can help you. As for the problem, are you stabbing the throttle or rolling into it gently?? The best thing I think you could do is try to buy a 12cm housing for it. That turbo should spool very fast!

Maybe something stuck in a line?? You should do a fluid flush and change.

He might have an older software version?? They are really easy to update. If nothing else he could have a sticking timing piston, oversize tires and not using gps, dragging brakes ect. I average 23 on my trips to and from school. 30 miles at 65, 15 miles at 70, 50-60 miles at 75-80, and 20 miles at 65??

Thanks W&F I needed that!!! I'm going to throw a new one on when I get the motor back together... A member on CF was having almost the exact same issue as me, but his steering box was bad. Maybe that's my issue too??

I don't believe that one bit. I have always gotten better mileage with my smarty on #1 than I did with the edge. I drove both of them the same too. Edge on 5x4 driving like a baby Smarty on 1 driving like a baby.

If only you knew how great the smarty / TST was.... Smarty's timing curves are way better than edges for performance!

NOW SOMEONE FIGURE OUT WHAT'S WRONG WITH MINE

Comp, boost elbow, gauge (pyrometer), and clutch (I recommend the one I have. Very smooth engagement and very strong holding power.)

No.... I think I'm going to be 5k+ deep in this motor already. I would love to go all out but honestly it isn't necessary on a VP powered truck that can't turn crazy RPMs. Plus the fluidampr should keep it pretty smooth!

I will end up putting on a coolant bypass. It will run from the back of the head through a thermostat or pressure relief then into the top of the existing thermostat housing. Power will probably stay right about the same as it was before 500hp 1215ft-lbs of torque until I can afford a clutch and input shaft. Then it will get twins and larger injectors. When I'm out of school I'll buy a rebuilt trans with hardened gears, fully splined and cryoed main shaft, cryoed 1 3/8" input shaft and a south bend dual disc clutch. That should handle everything a VP can put out. I actually plan on straight piping it as long as the drone in the cab isn't bad! Videos will be up when it is back together though.

And the cam gear is pressed onto the cam You can replace the front main seal and reseal the cover if you like.

Everyone is right! I bought it because I plan to do a coolant bypass in the future. The TST will be sent in and I should be able to turn 4k+ RPM when the shop is done with it. It's just another safety feature when making more HP with more RPMs!