MnTom

I don't think you will be able to stop the lope you have. I have heard stock trucks do the same thing.

I had heard that before, but not any first hand knowledge. Defineately do the lock up. If you ever put an exhaust brake on you will need it.

What do you you mean "It still diesels at idle when you let the clutch out"?

What are you trying to test? About the only test I know of with the turbo on the truck is see if you can make the compressor wheel touch the sides. If it does it failed......

You're welcome, Bill. My truck is an early '96 and it is the first year of the REs. My 'problem' with it is the software to run it. A lock up switch won't work on mine unless I get the PCM reflashed..........

Listen to this recording....... It is old, but hilarious!!!!

Same nephew, different guy with the truck.

The 47RH was used up until the 1995 model year and the 1996 to 2002 trucks have the 47RE. You really need to rethink your tranny guy's abilities.....

Hey guys and gals, I got a call from my nephew and he has a friend that is thinking about swapping an auto tranny to a manual in his 1994 F-250. Has anyone done such a swap and how hard was it? I told him having a donor truck right there is a great asset, but I am also wondering about the PCM and wiring too. From what I read there were some wiring changes at the PCM between the auto and manual. Can anyone confirm this?

The way the charging system works on the 12v trucks is the PCM looks at the crank sensor to determine if the engine is running. If it sees a signal it then looks at the battery temperature sensor located under the left battery. Then by the magic of computers it determines how much power to put into the battery. Something you can try is to unplug the small connector on the side of the alternator. Hook two wires up to the connector in the side of the alternator. Ground one and put the other on the positive terminal (it doesn't matter which one goes where). That will put the alternator into full charge mode. If it charges like that then check the wiring that you unplugged earlier. Chances are there is nothing wrong with it, but you never know. The next step if it charges with the jumper wires then a regulator is needed. If it does not charge then most likely the alternator is faulty.

Geez..... Up here we are about 13" SHY for the month of January and have probably 4" on the ground.......... It hasn't been real warm, but we just haven't gotten the normal snowfall.

145# is a touch over torque specs. The specs are 120 to 140 lbft torque. I have torqued mine to 120 lbft and have not had any issues what so ever, but then again I use a torque wrench on every wheel I pull and put back on.

For the average guy the hardest part of the job is getting the fan unscrewed..... For the rest a 10mm socket is about all you need!

Now you understand why body shops try to talk you into a complete paint job.

The amount of exhaust you need to replace depends on the condition of it. I replaced the tail pipe a couple of times and had to find a 3"x4" increaser. After the third tail pipe rusted I finally went and replaced the exhaust. I got a smoking deal from a vendor I know and went from the turbo back with a 4". My only complaint is since I am getting older the noise when towing is somewhat louder than I would like. It is not bad mind you, but loud enough that there is no mistaking the sound when towing.

It breaks real easily..............

Hey!! That looks just like you!!

All you owe me is a detailed report for what you find wrong with your truck...... Deal?

Yep, as stated earlier, any oil resistant silicone works, but the geey stuff seems to be slightly thicker in viscosity (IMHO).

That was my understanding of the job too. Quite easy. Now for the front crank seal, I have replaced a few of them, but not with the timing cover on the truck. I don't know how you would even do it with the cover in place. Figure a couple hours to replace it.

I concur. I have also been told by a reputable mechanic I know that the chips you get in the manifold are small enough that by time the turbo gets spinning when you first start it the chips are way past the turbo already.

Take a look at this site: http://issuu.com/rswords/docs/1st_gen_rear_anti-lock_brakes#It gives you instructions on how to get the code(s) and what they mean.

What I meant by "rocking" the truck is just grab a tire and try to move the truck, hence 'rock the truck'. You can leave it in gear or park if you have an auto. You only need to move it an inch or so to find out if there is a drag or not. In other words if you can't move the truck with vacuum on then you can with vacuum off you know where to look. What truck are we talking about? Your sig says you have a 2002 and this is the First Gen section.

Possible...... just possible. I have been told I look good on the radio.........

Something I have heard about but never experienced is the vacuum booster failing and applying a slight amount of pressure to the master cylinder. Try putting it in your shop. With the engine runing try to rock the truck and see what it feels like. Next shut the truck off and pump the brakes until you bleed off all the vacuum. Try rocking the truck again. If it is a lot easier without the vacuum, then you know where to look.