MnTom

I got lucky finding the reason my daughters' truck would start with the key in the on position (when wet out). I found the harness under the hood had worn on the left shock mount washer (just by chance). Fixed it and no more issues. Check the harnesses closely...........

Worst case is the vent is blocked/plugged and blowing the dipstick out of the tube.

Well, you did fairly good, BUT, you need to anchor the romex within 6" of the box and put a cover on it. Looking at the pictures it almost looks like at one time or another someone had a trouble light or something similar resting on the wire since there appears to be scorched insulation there.

True, but once the inanimate object reaches the actual air temperature the amount of air flow does not make it any colder. It just causes any temp difference to balance quicker.

If you are looking for control arms for the 2.5 inch change in height look at these: http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3870

If you even attempt to go to 4000PSI Make sure I am not anywhere close!!!! Anything over 250 psi is dangerous for the hoses and compressor seal.

Another thing to check is to make sure the vent tube is not restricted in any way. Also, take a look at the tube (by the starter) and see what it looks like when the truck is warmed up and idling. You should not see anything coming out.

Well, there is always the old trick of pouring water on it to see if it works better......

It is called electronics...... Plus the code P0216.

Not all 24v engines need a tab. I seem to recall that most up to about '99 did, after that the hole in the case was 'stepped' to prevent something that Dodge or Cummins "never heard of before". I guess for the 2.5 or so hours to check it is worth it.

Get a spray bottle and mix up some dish detergent and water. Get some pressure in the system and start spraying. Also make sure you check the compressor where the clutch is. Another thing you can do is put another can of R-134 in it and use a refrigerant leak detector. That way you can also check the drain and see if there is any refrigerant there. If there is the evap is probably the source of the leak.

I had a car do that and it was a clutch pack that was in the process of welding itself together. What would work temporarily was to put it in park and rev the engine and there was a loud 'snap'. It worked for a while, but I wound up replacing the tranny.

Actually the bung sizes are 2" IP and 3/4" IP.

But you need to remember that this is not a traffic offense. If you are caught it is for TAX EVASION. That is how they can check your truck. You are required to pay taxes to drive on the roads.

Hey SnoFarmer, where do you live at? I am in Esko.

You may have located your problem judging by the picture! Is there any wear at the place you show?

My daughter got checked for red fuel (didn't find any). The fine for NOT allowing anyone to check is $1000 here in Minnesota. If by chance you get caught with red fuel the fine is $1000 or $100 per gallon capacity of the tank which ever is higher. You don't really want to tell them they can't dip your tank.

Check the wiring harness. Seems to me I have heard of a chafing problem close to the compressor. For your water problem, locate the drain out on the firewall and use a shop vac to suck the crud out of it. If you blow air in or just use a wire then the slime will plug it up real quick on you.Tom

Just remember the seal goes on dry.

They are sticking tanks here in Minnesota too. $1000 fine IF you refuse to allow them to check your tank and $100 per gallon capacity or $1000 which ever is the greater amount for red fuel. My daughter just got her tank checked last week on the side of the road.

Well, I finally got the chance to get back here! Glad to meet you guys! Once things settle down for me (had a death in the family also real estate legal issues with other family members) then I can get back the forums....ALL of them. Thanks for the compliment ISX! I appreciate that!!! Now if I could get people to post on MDC like they do here........

One thing I have found is that Dodge likes to supply power full time to lights and switch the ground to turn the lights on and off.

I get to be the first to post here?!? WOW!! Lucky me......

You don't really need all those fancy tools, but they sure help! I did mine by my self and used a socket on the harmonic damper. I didn't have a delivery valve socket either so I used a pair of vise grips (yes, I know it is not the recommended way). Just make sure that you use contact cleaner (not brake clean) to clean the shaft and gear (contact cleaner leaves no residue). Also torque the nut to 160 pounds too. If you just go to stock torque it will slip again.

All you need to do is cut a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe 1 1/4" long and use a lug nut.