Wild and Free

I saw a few heater blend door issues on only 2 pages so I figured it would help out. People say if you call him he will tell you how to reindex the motor without a purchase, but it is not posted anywhere I could find.

When working on removing the blend door motor make sure the temp control is in the centered position or it will loose its indexing. This is a site I found a while ago with a cure for broke blend door. It has good info also. They say that you can open up the motor and recalibrate/reindex it if it has rotated out of spec they will include info on how to do it in the directions of the parts to fix the door. http://www.heatertreater.net/Dodge%20Ram%2095-02.htm

I used to work for a gear shop and the only true fix is the updated main shaft and gear. The split nut update didn't last any longer or better than the original design from our experience with them. welding the nut never held up either, we had lots of customers try and they all wound up doing the updated shaft. From my looking this is a really good shop to deal with. http://quad4x4.com/

I'm sure UPS or FEDEX could find their way.:biggrin:, They find me all the time.:$:

Their site is not very accurate. If I look for local dealers it shows me guys from South Dak as the closest when I have 2 guys within 30 miles of me who are actually very high volume dealers.:confused:

I see little about this product on any forum, I use it religiously in the summer and run amsoil diesel treat with cold flow improver in winter, I am another one of those pesky AO dealers but don't push it. here is a link to it. Schaeffers has some of the best product on the market IMHO. They have been around for a long time. I have used many of there product over the years at places I have worked and can attest to the high quality of all of their products.

Reminds me of a funny as heck video. Disclaimer. It is a bit rude and crude but will leave you rolling. [ame] [/ame]

I can relate......... I grew up on the original Atari, Gotta love "Pong" and "Night rider":tongue:

I installed a BD Valve body and single disc converter rated for 450 hp at 40k miles, I now have 110k on the rig and have totally tortured my tranny and have been at 560hp for about 3 years and sled pull and drag race it and it just keeps ticking, I had to replace a snapped output shat with a billet resulting from 1/8 mile Drag races with a smarty but that was only about a 3 hour job, It only requires removal of t-case and rear OD section of tranny "6 bolts". No tranny removal needed for output shaft replacement. Everyone said I "HAD" to replace the tranny with full built billet to compete..........That was about 5 years ago. I spent 1400 bucks for the parts to put in my stock tranny. It has given me lots of extra life. Had I listened to everyone I would have been out 5K for no reason. I know my days are numbered but I believe in the theory or "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". And don't spend money on things you don't need":razz:

Yep what Mike said. Plus during drag racing the smarty is just way too hard on parts as it hits way too hard down low but gives you nothing past that. I know of nobody that uses smarty for racing ect on a 2nd gen, I tried it once and it left me at the line with a snapped output shaft thus reinforcing what the pros told me about the smarty.

I have been reading and seeing rave reviews on BD's transfer pump also.

Yep, As The old adage goes.......... If it sounds to good to be true....It probably is.

Here is my 02 in action. [ame] [/ame]

Here is my 02 and 05 and how dirty the 05 usually is and what is usually hooked up be hind the 2 of them.

The Cr engine has no 3 cyl warm up option. and the 03 can not be dealer programmed to do manual high idle through the cruise Has something to do with how the ECM is configured. IIRC the 04 and newer has the feature. My 05 can be set with the cruise switches.