Wild and Free

Jack the frame up in the front about an inch and a half or so and then turn the wheels to one side and see if they still rub, this will tell you if a leveling kit will work or if you have a back spacing issue. Measure from center of hub to fender lip to get the 1.5 inch lift don't measure 1.5 inch at the bumper when jacking the front frame up to relieve the suspension pressure.

Have you looked at or thought about the Timbrens instead of airbags? Airbags with 2 different pressures can be a dangerous combo.

Another trick to purge the air is to fill them with oil and then leave the valve open like you are lowering them and then pump the handle a few times, it will help work the air out of the system.

3 revs....Wow, My 02 has always hit the instant I turn the key, Only time it cranks a bit more is if it is below 20 degrees and unplugged. 110k miles with OEM batteries yet also. My 05 as with most CR engines crank at least a few revs before firing though.

I worked on a local farmer/truckers Freightliner for a few years, He had 1.3 million miles on the truck, 3406B cat engine, He had owned it since it had 100k mile on it, He was a Schaeffers oil dealer and its what he was using in it and had never done 1 single oil change in 1.2 million miles. every 10k he changed the oil filters and topped off the oil about 2 gallons per filter change. He wanted to pull the pan to check main and rod bearings and to my and his surprise they looked like brand new yet.:eek: So they went back in and it is still running to this day.

You know its cold out when you have had it plugged in all night and the Intake heaters still stay on for 15-30 seconds.

Yep^^^^^^^^^ I had a BD super B turbo and 90 hp BD injectors with a comp and I was at 450ish with that setup, And even with that setup my egts were plenty high. Too much injector for the little ol Super B.

Places that are required to run certain persentages of Biodiesel Like Minnesota is causing people to have to readjust the timing again, Some guys that are over 16.5 are backing off to 16. They are getting even higher mandated blend of Bio in 2010 so they are all playing with timing to keep milage and performance in check with the new fuels.

What were they rubbing on? I have run that same size tire on stock rims and they rub on the upper control arm witch I just heated the rolled lip and bent it down so it wouldn't rub. Not sure of the off set on the rims you have now but a leveling kit may or may not work. I have coil spacers in my 05 and with the ranchhand bumper weight on the front it sits normal looking it raised the front 1/2 inch measuring from center of wheel hub to fender lip, I think most leveling kits Pep the front up too high and then it looks really goofy.

Always feels great to fix something for free nowadays. Glad it worked out for you after getting bent over on the APPS deal.:thumbsup:

Let us know the procedure to reindex the motor when you get a chance.:thumbsup:

I have had webroot on my current computer for 5 years and I open most stuff "within reason" and have never had a virus or any other problem to date either..........Knck on wood. I have a really good sPAM FILTER ALSO SO THAT HELPS OUT A BUNCH TO KEEP JUNK FROM MY INBOX.

There have been people on other sites trying the plug and play HID kits and You are correct on scattered lite with the stock lenses. But they all claim the light is super otherwise. Some are ordering up the clear lenses to try.

Like "We" Professional techs like to say.................. "Run it and watch it",in other words.... let the problem develop a bit more. It doesn't sound like anything major. If you had them big ol lights on try without them and see if it changes. Could be a loose ground or other connection also.

Some say the bully dog power pup is a great product for power and great mileage potential. I have never tried one myself I run the smarty jr and it adds great power but personally the milage gains have been minimal over stock.

I high lighted the answer in the post above yours, If you click on it there is a link to the brite box products.

:oMy bad............... but its still a good idea for resistors also, I agree theclipis about the easiest if you actually have one handy when you need it:wow:

Hey Mike, quick question comment. :bulb:When you solder the diodes to the switch did you "Heat Sink" them. Diodes are really sensative to heat and when you solder them you should heat sink them to prevent heat related damage to the innards of them. Heat sink is a term used to describe for example clamping a small vise grip or some other clamping device to the wire between the diode and solder area to absorb and disipate the heat before it transfers up the wire into the diode elemnt itself.

I have heard and know of of sooooo many stories of superchips screwing up ecms and leaving residue programming issues so as that other programmers will not work after a sc programmer had been used, the only way to overcome it is to reflash ECM at the dealership.

Those aircraft lights draw some serious amperage also, At the coal mines I work at they used to run a lot of them on equipment but 24 volt systems and they really taxed the electrical system especially if the grounds were bad or dirty. They have all long since upgraded to HID lighting now. Most new equipment only comes with HID lights now.

:eek:Wow I thought being a member of TDR for about 5 years and only having 1500ish posts and a member of 1 other forum and having 1900 posts there was bad. And my wife thinks I am adicted to this.

I have factory fogs on my 05 also, I would like to see OUT in front of me and not RIGHT in front of me which is all my 05 does. What year was/is your 3rd gen? The 06 style and newer seems to have cured all lighting problems.

I'd Like to see something for 03-05 3rd gens, the lights on those are even worse than regular second gens. 2nd gen high beams where livable but lows beams sucked, 3rd gens have good low beams but highs shine out no further but just widen the low beam pattrern a bit. Can see better with a full

First off welcome, Second is, are there any mods done to the rig as of now? ie. comp box programmer ect? I would go for the ground fix first and get it done to rule it out anyways. Second is to calibrate the apps. unplug the batts for a few minutes rehook them up then turn key on "DO NOT START" then press accellerator pedal slowly all the way to floor and back and done turn key off.

I have always averaged around 80-100k on front pads and way more on rears, heck I don't think I have ever changed the rears on most of my vehicles. Man you need to slow down a bit.:p