Wild and Free

Sounds like a dead governor pressure solenoid, it is on the side of the valvebody inside the trans pan. When they go bad it goes into limp mode. I know from experience it happened on my 02 it could also be the cause of your shudder if it has been acting up.I would go to Suncoast transmission for a replacement,they have a custom one that will tolerate more pressure and are supposed to be able to operate even with contaminated oil where as the stock ones are prone to siezing and bad solenoids.

Did you try to reset the APPS?

Your welcome:smile:

If I remember all the pods come as 2 inch and you trim them to fit a 2 1/16 gauge.

I know from experience that leaving something unhooked with the comp will get your attention. Glad I could help............:thumbsup:

It sure would,without the map sensor reading correct it will not fuel properly.

Glad to hear you got it figured out...........:biggrin:

P0238 is Map sensor voltage High or above normal, Which means there is an open wire or connection in the circuit. Not to say the Map sensor itself didn't go bad.If it was voltage too low that means a dead shorted wire. Also make sure you have the comp plugged into the ecm harness also and the ground wire for it is still hooked up. Cover your bases.

You either have a bad/loose connection where the comp Tees into the Map sensor or it is a comp issue which is pretty common. Take the comp out of the mix and see what happens. Or make sure it is hooked up properly to the Map sensor.

I have read that some rigs with a smarty can shuddering in certain conditions. Have him unload the smarty and try it. I was not a fan of smarty in the second gen with any other mods. It was ok on a close to stock or stock rig but I didn't think it stacked well with other mods or electronics from my experience with it, that is why I sold mine.

I tried it there and it doesn't flow enough oil through there to get an accurate reading, I tried things with 2 gauges and it did not read any different in the sertvo port than it did in the pan. The only accurate place is in the hot cooler line exit. DTT and other tranny builders actually want you to monitor temps for trannies in the cooler line also, DTT actually makes and sell a ine with temp port in it also but is really expensive, I think The OEM line with the temp port is in the 80-90 buck range.

If you go this route you will need to remove a check valve ball from either the new line or the fitting in the cooler on the side of the engine. Other wise it will have 2 in the system.

The AirDog pumps seem to be getting better reviews for both performance and customer service. Actually they are father /son businesses. Father owns FASS Son owns Airdog, family feud caused son to form airdog company to show up pa. Little known facts.

Make sure the wastegate isn't sticking. but that would cause a surge more than shudder, There are just too many things to come up with. No codes I presume?

Here is the Chrysler part #.......05011244AA If you look it up I believe they came in the 1995 model year rams.

My current set do the exact same thing smooth as glass until about 70 then vibe comes on until 75ish and then smooths out again. Out of balance drive shafts will do the same thing also.

The best place for the trans temp sensor is in the hot converter out tranny cooler line "The front one" on the driverside of the tranny. If you have an older 12valve second gen it will have a sensor in a line there already for the idiot light in the dash which is worthless and can be replaced with the temp sensor for the gauge. If not you can buy the line from a chrysler dealer, it is by far the best and most accurate place for the temp sensor. Don't bother with installing the sensor in the pan, by the time it reads hot there you have already done the damage. The oil in the pan is the oil that has returned from the cooler already and is the coldest place to measure the temps at. I can look up the Chrysler part # for the sensor ready cooler line if anyone is interested. I did this on my 02 and it is really nice to see instantly how driving habits/conditions affect tranny temps.

If you can get some pics of the suspension to give us a better idea of what you have going on. Is there any sort of brand names anywhere as to what brand suspension lift it has?

What year rig do you have and what is the electronic control block for? Give us a description of what you drive so we can better help you out.

When you test drive get it up to vibe speed and then mexican over drive it, Put it in neutral and coast at the vibe speed and let engine go to idle speed step clutch in and out while coasting just experiment and see if it is still there without the engine harmonics factoing into it and see if it just the same or how it changes it. Also can remove the front driveshaft and drive it that way just to eliminate it as a culprit. Its all about isolating it at this point. I have on more occasions than not had new tires be the worst culprits of vibes. I have a set now I have been fighting for a few thousand miles and numerous rebalances and they are just out of round a bit. Got a warranty replacement set and got the same issue 2 of them are out of round. so I drove them to round them out and its getting better now to get them rebalanced again.

One other thing I need to ask is what "Frequency" is the vibe? Slow and heavy like a tire out of balance or high speed vibe like driveline 3-3k rpm range? Does it change with engine rpm or road speed or both? Another check is to jack stand it at all 4 corners and run it up to speed with the tires off the ground and isolate it from front to back. Or just jack stand the back and chock the front to prevent rolling. and run it in gear with tires off the ground.

I would check the front, from your description its not the cause of a vibe. You generally won't notice slightly worn joint as a bad vibe until they are near total failure. You don't need to remove the joints from the shaft though, save the time and money and just go by feel. By the way are you pinion seals leaking? If the pinion bearings are starting to fail it will cause vibes also.

Roll them and see if they feel smooth or if they feel ratchety or bumpy "Knurled" is the term for this if not smooth then they are shot. I wouldn't press them out if they are not bad.

Just remove the U straps that hold the ujoint to the axle yoke to remove the drive shaft from the vehicle. the front shaft has a bolt on flange yoke at the t-case with 4 bolts. The rear shaft just slips onto the output shaft of the t-case. The CV joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft can cause vibes also when it goes bad. Most do not know they are greaseable with a grease needle. Not all are though, some are factory sealed. I think 2nd gens are factory sealed but 3rd gens are greasable again. I have a custom built front drive shaft for pulling and had a greasable cv joint installed.