Wild and Free

The cummins is superior over the 3116 and 3126 cats which were prone to lots of injector and especially cam problems.

Unless the tie rod was loose in the taper or the nut was loose holding it to the gear and caused spline wear ther is nothing that can go wrong unless it was bent in an accident or something strange like that.

You do not need to remove it to get the steering gear out but you will need to swap it over to the other gear if thats what you are doing.

Have you tried to calibrate the APPS? if not do that first and see if it helps.

1800 seems to be the sweet spot for a stock charger, but when you start modding it varies greatly depending on needs and wants and how the rig is modded. One should never ever just buy a converter without actually talking to the shop to determine what is best for your particular needs. They can build converters specifically for the needs. I know people who have pulled out and sent the converter back to the tranny shops several times to get the best match to the application. These shops know and have been in the diesel arena long enough to get you very close in most cases but not if you do not consult with them on what you are going to be doing and how the rig is built. This is not a part that should be purchased with no consultation. This is where people wind up having problems.

My 02 is at 560 hp with 150 injectors and an HRVP and have been there for around 4 years and regularly sled pull and drag race and have put about 60k on this setup currently at 115k total with OEM head gasket and head bolts..............Yeah its all virgin yet, never been opened up. Have been over 450 hp for about 6 years and had 2 bigger turbos but kept the gate set at 40-42 and still going strong.

Most will run a resonator with a muffler to lessen drone and some will run 2 mufflers. The further forward you can mount the muffler the more the drone will be reduced. Extended cabs are more prone to drone.

Check the bottom side of the water pump and see if it is dripping from there. That is the most common place to leak. only 3 bolts and an o-ring to change the pump. Takes longer to drain and refill coolant than to swap the pump.

I would not attempt to rebuild it, there is more to them than you think. If it is loose and worn and leaking it is best to just replace it. There are new ones on the market for them now and have a faster 3.3 turn ratio rather than the 4.5 turn they came with. Here is a link to them http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-800112

Check for codes first off. How high have you taken the rpm to see if it shifts? If the governor solenoid is sticky it will cause it to have a delayed upshift. could also be the speed sensor gone bad. First we need to know if there are codes.

unless you upgraded you valvebody along with the converter you still have a low pressure tranny and it will still feel slugish, you need to get an upgraded valvebody or install a shift kit in your current valvebody to get the full benefit from a better converter it would still be possible to slip the lockup clutch in a performance converter if you do not have enough pressure to hold the lockup clutch engauged tightly.

Hopefully this helps you understand..... http://www.goerend.com//torqueconvertertech.php For a standard duty application we like to start with a low stall triple disc converter that will keep the engine in its torque range of about 1700-2200 rpm. Put another way, the upgraded converter will have the engine working at about 500-800 rpm lower than a stock converter. The stock converter usually lets the engine rev to 2300-2800 rpm, which is past its peak power rpm. On a 24 valve Cummins Turbo Diesel with the "Common Rail" system this torque range will be slightly higher. In order to understand the benefits of this upgrade it is important to know how a torque converter works: Torque Converter Basics Let’s start with 2 wall fans facing each other: If we turn one fan on the wind from this fan will make the other fan turn, although much slower than the "drive" fan. In the case of a torque converter, the drive fan is bolted to the engine and the fan being driven is connected to the input shaft of the transmission. In addition a oil is used to transmit the energy between the two fans, as opposed to air in the example scenario. When stationary (such as at a stop sign), with the trans in gear and the engine at idle, the drive fan is spinning so slow that it will not "blow" enough oil at the driven fan to make it turn. As the engine speed is increased the drive fan blows more oil at the driven fan and the driven fan starts to turn and moves the vehicle. This important concept is commonly referred to as "fluid coupling". The drive fan will always turn a little faster than the driven fan, just like the wall fans. If you were to stick a feather, or straw, into the driven fan blades it would slow the driven fan down but not the drive fan. In a real application this is just like pulling a heavier trailer, the straw in the driven fan is essentially adding a load. Torque Converter Lock-up Once the truck is up to speed there is a mechanism, called a lock up clutch, that will "lock" the fans together. In actuality the driven fan is "locked" to the front cover of the torque converter, which is bolted to the engine. When this occurs the drive fan and driven fan turn at the same rpm, with no loss of power in the fluid coupling. When the drive and driven fan are not locked together, heat is generated in the converter. The greater the load and rpm difference, the greater the heat generated. This heat is essentially lost power which results in a lower transmission life, performance and fuel economy. The loss of energy in this process can be calculated: suppose we have a converter where the drive fan (impeller) is turning 2500 rpm and the driven fan (turbine) is turning 1800 rpm. The efficiency of this converter, at this speed, is 72% (1800 divided by 2500). The efficiency is constantly varying, depending on the rpm of the converter, the power input to the converter and the output load, or towed weight. When the converter clutch locks the fans together, the engine rpm will drop 700 rpm. If we use a converter that is more efficient, such as a "low stall" converter we will be able to achieve a higher efficiency rate. For example, an 88%, efficiency rate would mean that the impeller would be turning 2500 rpm and the turbine would be turning 2200 rpm. When the converter clutch locks the turbine to the front cover we would only see a rpm drop of 300 rpm, as opposed to 700 rpm. A lower rpm drop is substantially easier on the converter’s clutch lining and will reduce glazing. In addition, because the fluid coupling of the converter is more efficient, more power, less heat and better fuel economy are delivered before the converter locks up. Torque Converter Stall Speeds To explain "stall speed", let’s start with a true full stall. If the transmission were in drive, the brakes were held down (so the vehicle will not move) and the throttle was held "wide open" the torque converter will "stall" the engine at a certain rpm. When "stalled" the engine will not be able to spin any faster unless the vehicle is allowed to move. This is a true full stall. We have specialized equipment which is used to perform this test. DO NOT TEST FOR TRUE STALL, IT CAN DAMAGE SHAFTS AND OVERHEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER! The next stall speed is generally called "break away" stall speed. If a truck is stopped on a hill and held in position using light throttle as opposed to brakes we are almost at the "break away" stall speed. If the engine rpm required to "hold" the truck was 1100 rpm and an increase to 1125 rpm started to move the truck then the "break away" stall speed is 1125 rpm. The last stall speed is generally referred to as the "flash stall" speed. The flash stall speed takes effect under hard acceleration. If, from a standing start, you were to "floor" the throttle the engine would start to accelerate quickly and then pause at an rpm is it starts to pull the truck. If the engine went from idle to 1500 rpm in 1.5 seconds when floored and then took another 2 or 3 seconds to get from 1500 to 1700 rpm, this would mean the "flash stall" speed was at 1500 rpm. When we lower the stall we want to lower the break away speed as well as the flash stall speed. This will make the engine work at a lower rpm for a given road speed and, in most cases, will increase fuel mileage. Once up to speed, the computer will command the lock up clutch "on", and the driven fan will lock to the front cover of the converter. At this point the drive, driven fan and engine are turning the same speed which means all engine power will be delivered to the transmission and back to the wheels. Upgrading Your Stock Converter In a stock torque converter, the clutch has 1 clutch plate with about 37 square inches of clutch lining. At Goerend Transmission we like to use 3 clutch surfaces that total about 105 square inches of lining, we call this a triple disc converter. This triple disc will hold dramatically more torque than a single disc.

Have you checked the exhaust manifold and gaskets for cracks or blown out gaskets also check the turbo and make sure the wastegate isn't stuck open.

If it is a daily driver I would say no to the Billet but if you tow a lot it becomes a crap shoot. There are lots who have snapped a stock input shaft with nothing but an edge EZ while towing. I say do it once do it right 700 now will save you another 3k++ in the future. I would consider it good insurance if you tow. That is the only shaft I would do. If you break an output shaft it can be easily replaced without a tranny removal. I did my output shaft in about 3 hours.

It depends on what program you are running, its Not so bad with the Smarty REVO, with about 100 settings available you can set it from mild to wild. But it is not a power adder and from my experience it did little for milage but the drivability was next to none and SOP factor was fun too. But for ease of simplicity and bang for the buck I would go with the Edge. They are plentiful and easy to find reasonable used ones.

Attorney Philip Berg has a case filed against Barry also here is his web site http://obamacrimes.com/ Here is lasts weeks interview with Philip Berg By Alex Jones. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/60/Xivoj64PP5o http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/59/KsbQ31qXPvQ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/58/h7Gb_9YuWFc http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/57/CIMJGv6Jb0w http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/56/zGZemCR3q1Q http-~~-//www.youtube.com/user/TheAlexJonesChannel#p/u/55/qYYlyuiyedg I also find it interesting how the main stream media once they found out that Palin was put on the podium for Vice prez they went to Alaska and over turned every rock in the state to find out where and when she farted but there was absolutely no background hunting by them to find anything on Barry............ Thanks to ol Rupert Murdoch and his highly mind altering media control.

I'l drink a "Rye" for ya.....Eh.......

There are 2 ground wires under/behind the passenger side battery that if dirty will cause all sorts of glitches.

Probably just a minor difference if any...........Just throwing my preference of opinion at it.

I am running the factory cooler line from chrysler with the temp sender port in it on my 02. Looks like the price is the same as the factory line so its your choice. That one looks like a well made unit, I do not like that the sender port is at the cooler end instead of the tranny end though. The factory line has the port about 2 inches from the tranny fitting. That line is the best way to go for the most accurate tranny temps also anyhow.

Good choice.............I have heard of way too many horror stories about ATS and their lack of post sale customer service since they have grown to a large company.

High idle is always wide open governed speed no exceptions in tech terms. Automatic elevated idle is as it says an automatic featured controlled by the ecm when more temp is needed as it takes engine speed to a set rpm. The cruise feature is PTO feature where you can set the engine speed at a desired level to operate the pto at whats needed but it is limited to 1500 rpm. I would love to see the results of a 29k RPM diesel:lmao: I think you meant 2.9k rpm

Well to correct you........................... High Idle is actually WIDE OPEN FOOT TO THE FLOOR GOVERNED SPEED. What you are referring to is technically called..........ELEVATED IDLE SPEED. This is not my opinion it is hard fact taught and described in any and all mfg's tech manuals.

DOT approved and Legal I would assume..........hope.

Go to this site http://www.suncoastconverters.com/dodge/dodge_products.html go to kits and components and check out this part below. New Chrysler 618RE Governor Pressure Conversion Upgrade Kit Part No. 618-GK Price: $139.00 This kit was specifically designed to improve the reliability of the governor solenoid in normal use and to handle higher base pressure in high performance application. This unit will fit both early and late style. We recommend you also install a new Governor Pressure Sensor/Transducer with this kit. This kit in testing was found to be extremely reliable in every situation. Contamination metal, fiber, clutch material does not phase the RE conversion kit. Parts included in this kit: • Manifold is made of 6061T6 Billet Aluminum • New Borg Warner Solenoid • 1/4 20 Grade 5 bolts (4) • Viton O-Rings (3) • Gasket • Cap screws (3) • Set screw • Delphi/Packard connectors • Bracket for Solenoid and Governor sensor