Wild and Free

I would lean towards a piece of debris in the governor valve. I think that if the solenoid itself goes bad it goes into limp mode. What was wrong in the tranny to have needed a rebuild? What kind of converter and valve body went back in.........Pleasae don't say stock.

P1765 (M) Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRLCircuitAn open or shorted condition is detected in theTransmission Relay control circuit. This relay suppliespower to the TCCP1765 (M) Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CtrlCircuitCurrent state of solenoid output port is different thanexpected (4-speed auto. trans. only). The second one would still indicate a bad solenoid or sticky valve.

622 is alt field not switching......I wouldn't worry about it. My 02 has this code and it will not clear since I bought it 7 years ago with 18k miles and it now has 111k miles with no issues with original oem batteries and alternator yet. here is the code description for the otherP1756 (M) GOV Press Not Equal to Target @15-20 PSIThe requested pressure and the actual pressure are notwithin a tolerance band for the Governor Control Systemwhich is used to regulate governor pressure to controlshifts for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. (Mid PressureMalfunction) P1756 (M) Governor Pressure Not Equal toTarget @ 15-20 PSIGovernor sensor input not between 10 and 25 psi whenrequested (4-speed auto. trans. only). I would check the tv cable adjustment first but I am pretty sure the rebuilder did not replace the governor pressure solenoid. Either the solenoid valve has probably got a piece of debris in it causing it to stick or the solenoid is bad but that usually will cause a limp mode condition. I would talk to the rebuilder and ask why he didn't test it before it left his shop. It is in his hands for letting it go without being tested first...........Can you say warranty? He will probably charge you for a solenoid but he needs to cover the labor and oil for the replacement of it:cookoo:

That would be "Torque management" The 01-02 years had it not sure on 2k, 99 and earlier did not have it. It was a factory program in the ECM that will not allow fueling if the computet does not see wheel speed. It was designed to prevent drivetrain damage. The only product made that totally eliminates it is the BD RAD box "Racing anti defueling". But it kills the gauge cluster and sets a check engine light when used. The Smarty and other programmers only lessen the effects of Torque management but do not turn it off or eliminate it. If the computer does not see wheel speed then it limits the amount of fuel the pump gets and it will not allow it to fueling past roughly 5lbs of boost. If he runs a BD RAD box he will smoke his tranny in a heart beat if it is stock and or snap shafts. Most just let the rig roll a bit then jump on the brakes and throttle at the same time to break things loose.

If you forget to turn it off you will kill the engine coming to a stop also. Would be better off getting a TC lockup controller that you can program to lock and unlock when you want, even better is an aftermarket valvebody that will allow lockuo in 2nd gear to go along with it.

It used to be the common repair for the hunting issue but the better fix that took care of the problem better was the apps ground wire fix. Most who went with the ground wire fix are thoe ones who ran the supressor and it still had issues. Some just did both. Dtt has them fairly cheap if I remember correctly

Lukes links are still a maintenance item that could be avoided with a 3rd gen conversion.

You are so wrong on so many levels I can't even think straight after reading how brain washed your response is. This is the most important response I can give in a short explanation. We are all slaves..............Slavery was not abolished it was expanded to include every citizen of the USA. We are born with only our time and labor to offer. The government collects illegal and unconstitutional personal income tax from all of us which makes us all slaves. The constitution only allows products and services to be taxable not personal labor.

The 2nd gens have an end on it like a tie rod end on the frame end and it hammers out and causes a thumping in the floor boards.

An economics professor said he had never flunked a student before but had, once, failed an entire class. That class had insisted that socialism worked and that no one would be poor and no one would be rich, a great equalizer.The professor then said ok, we will have an experiment in this class on socialism.All grades would be averaged and everyone would receive the same grade so no one would fail and no one would receive an A. After the first test the grades were averaged and everyone got a B. The students who studied hard were upset and the students who studied little were happy. But, as the second test rolled around, the students who studied little had studied even less and the ones who studied hard decided they wanted a free ride too; so they studied little. The second test average was a D! No one was happy. When the 3rd test rolled around the average was an F.The scores never increased as bickering, blame, name calling all resulted in hard feelings and no one would study for the benefit of anyone else. All failed, to their great surprise, and the professor told them that socialism would also ultimately fail because when the reward is great, the effort to succeed is great; but when government takes all the reward away; no one will try or want to succeed. There are three caveats on the road to socialism:1) The quality of all products and services will regress to the mean - no more good, better or best.2) Eventually, you will run out of "other people's money."3) Once you go over, it is impossible to come back.The more a government spends, the bigger it gets. The bigger it gets, the more people employed in the public sector. The bigger the public sector, the greater the percentage of voters who will vote to protect their government jobs, i.e., bigger and bigger government. See # 3 above.

It depends on what you want to spend, Cheap but good are Lukes Links. The best option in my opinion is to do a 3rd gen upgrade. Unless you have a lift I would not go with the spendy adjustable track bars. Just get a 3rd gen track bar and get the adaptor plate kit.

You posted #4 twice and missed #5 of the series.

Must not have gotten the end plate gasket in place when you moved the resistor at some point.

Here is another good one http://www.dieseltrans.com/dodge/index.htm

From personel experience and from what I read and hear these are 2 of best. Goerend transmision Sun Coast

What program is the file? My computer can't open it, says it doesn't know what program to open it with?

The backspacing is the dish of the rim and how deep or how far out of the wheel well they fit. If you have the factory rims they will probably rub just a bit on the lower control arm at full turn but I have just bent the lip of the arm down so it didn't catch the tire, Some tires don't rub it depends on the tread design.

285's are a perfect match for these rigs but they can rub on the lower control arm a little and sometimes on mudflaps depending on the design of them. All depends on if you have factory rims or not also as back spacing can help and or hinder rubbing.

It was nearly -20 this morning so I was going to play a bit with some pics but my Raytec will not read below 0.

He has a BHAF on the to do list there Mike.

The vacuum lines are small steel lines that follow the frame the rubber lines are connected to the end of the steel lines at the CAD and at the T- case. The vacuum switch is on top of the T-case left side. That is where the lines all go to and come from. There are 4 lines at the switch, 1 vacuum supply and 2 switched lines to the CAD and a vent. After rereading the last comment you made I think you are referring to the front axle vent hose, it should just be clipped to the frame above the axle.

Looks like you got the plan all put together pretty air tight other than the one thing that stands out to me is the Balwin fuel filter...............I would run fleetgaurd ,Hastings or wix or pretty much anything but baldwin, I have had many many filter courses over the years as a Diesel Tech and Baldwins are just a small step above fram in the filter world.

I have a set of the dynapro atm's in the pic above ready to go on my 05 but they were 180 bucks apiece for 265-70-17 inch tires.

Does he have any mods done to the tranny and what mods are done to the engine? Is it still a stock converter and valvebody or aftermarket,we need to know these things before throwing any rouge info out there without knowing the facts.

On my personal vehicles I usually run over critical area bolts just to snug thing up like oil pans front covers ect, anything that could be a potential leak. I usually try to do it once a year during an oil change.