Wild and Free

The price for ATF4 makes the switch to Amsoil well worth it also as they are roughly the same price from what I have seen. I have switched many cummins over to amsoil ATF over the years do to the price of the recommended ATF4. :2cents:Just throwing it out there not trying to push anything here.

One thing I wish some place would do is to do a muffler comparison on rigs with and without stacks and do a tow and performance test with the same exhaust and just swap out different mufflers and use a Decimeter in the cab to see which is the quiesest and yet does not compromise performance. I have read many forums and subscribed to several diesel rags and have never seen a muff copmarison.

Just a quick note to the levels and power. It has been determined that more often than not the level 5 with sublevel 4 gives the best performance and power. Not 100% of the time but most often. I have the dyno graphs on mine with different turbo and injector setups to prove this with my drag comp. level 5 sublevel 4 is always the winner. Hp is always nearly identical but the torque curve is always smoother and higher.

Ah but I did you just need to back up a few posts to find my reply. it is just a rubber ball that pops out easily with a small screw driver or seal pick ect.

The big one is to access the converter bolts and the smaller one is what the engine barring tool slips into for turning the engine over the proper way and not by the alternator pully nut, which I have had a war of words over on other threads on other forums.

Check out the link below. I have this kit and will sell for a song and dance if anyone is interested. I have a brand new filter for it also. I ran it for about 3 years before I got the HP bug and went in a different direction. It worked super. read about it below.http://www.walkerairsep.com/product_detail.asp?id=439

Yep the converter bolts are acessed through the tin cover with 2 screws. I have never seen one that you could get to through the bottom cover. As I said before leave the check ball in or you will have issues you probably won't like but to remove it is to just dig it out as it is just a rubber ball.

Your sig doesn't indicate if its an HO 6spd or SO 5 spd.

just get your fingers behind it anywhere you can and pull STRAIGHT OUT towards the steering wheel, it will snap out pretty easy. I usually grab it on top where it meets the dash and pop it back from there.

Only remove the check ball if you are getting a VB with a "pump in park" mod done to it, you need to know what they do to the vb, if they just install a shift kit then you didn't gain pump in park nor increased flow ect. The big tranny shops do a lot of altering and modifying of the VB besides a shift kit. Other than that it will hurt nothing to keep it in there, if you remove it and don't have pump in park it will allow oil to drain back and when you start it and throw it in gear it will be sluggish for a few seconds until it builds pressure up in gear. If you install a new line with the temp port in it, it comes with a check ball in it also so you should either remove the one from the line or the one from the fitting going into the cooler either one but not both. Remove the t-case seperately and save the headache of wrestling them together. It is not too heavy by my standards and I always put them in and out by hand. I have done the trannies with and without removing the crossmember. If you choose to leave it in you need to remove the rear mount from the tranny completely and it will slide back and let the front down and slide it out. The Flex plate bolts are accessed through a cover on the front side of the flywjeel housing on the passenger side at about the 3 O clock position looking at it from back side.

It increases oil flow and increases pressures and can change shift points a bit but makes shifts more crisp/faster. there are shift kits that can improve shift points but most of the bigger tranny shops do several mods to the VB to increase the flows where an aftermarket over the counter kits won't get you to the quality of a built vb.

Maybe still not the gauge, As I pointed out in my first thread it could be a cracked pickup tube. It would be a good idea to drop the tank and inspect and maybe install a vulcan draw straw.

I want to say it was 1100 minus 2-300 core, was a few years ago so I can't recall exactly.

Iv'e been running a BD single disc at 560 hp and 986 tq for several years and sled pull quite often and tow 10-12k regulary.

If you are close to stock power they are fine but having 4 gears with no lockup and no OD you will kill the milage and gain nothing from it other than running 2500 rpms to go 55 mph. http://www.atlanticdda.com/transmissions/at545_specification_sheet.cfm

Did you crack the injector lines to see if you have fuel getting there. The harness shouldn't affect anything if it is out of the loop like you say. I would put a few gallons of fuel in it and retry. I have read of stock fuel pickup tubes cracking and you will suck air at about 1/4 tank.

There is no advantage to the 1000 series Allison behind the Duramax. It is still an automotive tranny and is prone to all the same issues as our 47 re trannies and then some as they have an issue with planetaries going bad. They have heavier shafts but other than that they are not anymore durable. Same lame low pressures and week converters in the stock form. The newer Ford trannies are actualy the best of the 3. Not sure the model # of it off hand. If you are looking at a 500 series allison from medium duty trucks or buses they have no lockup options for the converters and are not up the the added HP we are capable of.

On my 02 I have the same no cruise indicator but I also have a non working cruise with it. I am leaning towards a bad clockspring on mine but I rarely use the cruise on it, with my mods it surges too bad with the cruise on.

Most aftermarket jobbers can order them in or autobody supply shop or even most body shops should have them on hand.

I just used a test light on back of the head light switch to find the gauge lights wire I found the hot ones with switch on and dimmed down to see if my test light dimmed and found it that way and positapped into it right at the switch. Most places tell you to tap into the ashtray light but I didn't want 4 extra feet of wiring under the dash when I only needed a foot.

The price is about 10 bucks less than what I paid for the OEM line, but having 2 extra fittings and being solid I think makes for more trouble down the stretch for loosening fittings and or cracking due to vibrations ect. Just my opinion:2cents: The Mopar part is around 90 bucks give or take a few depending on where you get it from at least it was a few years ago when I bought mine. DTT also sells the chrysler line with their own update. Click on the steel braided hose picture in the link for info on it. http://www.dieseltrans.com/dodge/accessories.htm

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?p=7422&highlight=#post7422 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1552-Edge-Juice-Transmission-Temp-probe-sensor?p=10834&highlight=#post10834

You are headed in the right direction. But I would put the temp gauge sender in the tc output cooler line "The front one". If you saw 180-210 in the port you were already deep frying the oil and explains the dark burnt color of it as it is way hotter coming from the converter than you will ever see from the port location.

It all looks normal to me too except for what Mike pointed out about the dark oil.

Does it connect to the MAP sensor with a T connector or not?If it tees into the map sensor harness then it does the boost fooling if not then you probably have no boost fooling with it. This is my opinion as I am not up on the diablo but thet is how the boost fooling is done on the second gen 24 valves.