Wild and Free

After seeing this, I remember that the 01 and 02 comps are the same but the harness is different between those 2 years.

I have had the best luck finding OEM parts thru these places. http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog-small.html?gclid=CNvW9PDox5sCFQLixgodkwmZAQ http://www.dodgeparts.com/ The web site below is no longer valid but there is contact info, this is where I have found the best prices on OEM in the past. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214014

Fastenall is pretty high priced. Pretty much any local hardware store or local farm shop/supply store other than the big name ones like tsc will have bulk hardware.

It will work, It just needs and adaptor harness for the MAP sensor which Edge sells.

One other thing to remember is that it will increase cylinder pressures also and if you have a stock head gasket yet it may not last long. I would recommend at a minimum if running water or water meth mix to get a set of head studs and o-ring the head.

There are a couple stations here locally that after hours still allow the dyed pumps to turn on with credit cards and I know of many people who fuel up that way.............Some people have no conscience.

Regular fuel was green until they went to the ultra low sulfer fuel then it went to a more clear color.

They do not need to dip the tank or even see the fuel, Most LEOS have a hand held sniffer that detects the chemicals found in the dye in the exhaust fumes now.

Yep, it requires both axles to be removed and the differential carrier needs to be removed also and to install the new ones requires either a special axle seal installer or use some home made tools as most do. It will take 2 people to install the seals if you don't have the right seal installer as they install from the tube side inward.

One of the two lines on the cad will always have vacuum. One will pull it to 2wd and hold it there and the other will pull it to 4 wd and hold it there. On the t-case there will be the main vacuum line from the pump and 2 going to the cad and the 4th would be a vent if I remember right.

How did you check your u-joints? You need to physically remove the drive line to see if they are binding up or have a rachety feeling. Just had one on my 05 that would not move a stitch while pushing and pulling on it and it showede no signs externally visual of being bad but upon removal of the shaft it was so dry and bound up I couldn't move it by hand without a bar or pliers.

Pretty normal, I have yet to see one that was totally dry. As posted the bushing could be loose. my 02 I bought at 18 k and currently at 118 k has always had a drip of oil hanging odd it but it has never left a puddle. I think I replaced the seal once but it didn't cure the hanging drip. Nothing to worry about until it leaves puddles.

The only real way to fix it if you don't like to do it over and over and over and over.............. is to just install the updated main shaft.

Not sure cost wise what raid or bug spray costs but coming from a farm boy who used to raise bees for 4-H and FFA in high school we found the best and cheapest way of ridding the pesty ones was Good OL "ETHER" pretty much kills them instantly and isn't as nasty of a poison to have to worry about pets or people getting it.

I would suggest bypassing the heat exchanger on the side of the block if it never sees cold weather and with the amount of stop and go traffic you do. It is doing nothing for you but adding heat to the tranny oil. The heat exchanger on passenger side of block help warm the tranny oil faster in cold weather but has little effect on it in hot weather. My suggestion is to bypass it and add the cooler you want to.

You could find jobs in mosty all of the areas you listed here in ND as the state is booming in a big way. State can't fill all the jobs that are here. If you find 104 cold then you need to look at a different continent as that is what it hit last sunday here in Bismarck ND. And to be realistic the temps in WYO can be just as cold as up north farther, you need to figure the extra elevation adds to the cold factor. in the mountain areas and the rest of the state just has plain cold 40 mph winds most of the time in the winter.

I highly reccommend removing the scotchlocks from the schemeatic. They are a mechanics best friend because they will always have to be redone, In short they are junk and should not even be sold,escpecially if one lives in an area of snow where they speard salt or other corrosive substances on the road to melt ice and snow. It gets into the wires at ther scotchlock which has compromised the integritty of the wire and insulation and you wind up with a few feet of green and more issues that you didn't want.

My 05 with amsoil 15w40 and amsoil bypass I just do 10k changes but will start doing it based off of samples at next oil change. My 02 with dual remote filters full flow and bypass on the same filter head, I don't put many miles on so once a year does it. I used to drive it daily and sampled oil every 5k I once ran it to 30k on the same oil and samples were still coming back excellent but just wanted piece of mind and started yearly changes. My wifes 03 TDI Jetta I go by the VW recommendation of 5k changes with amsoil also as VW comes with synthetic and requires it plus with the EGR it gets super sooty also.

If there was a fooler installed it would be intsalled or teed into the harness right at the sensor, so you would have noticed an extra connection other than factory harness on the map sensor.

Man the miles I have ridden / driven in that vintage of charger while in high school. Had 2 class mates with them and both had 383/727 combos in them also.

You need to quit cutting so much fire wood. The forest is looking awefully thin in those pics............

Thanks for the opportunity and the votes for the honor of it.

To correct and add to ISX a blocked wastegate can lead to a turbo overspeed condition and that is where things get messy when the shafts break and send parts and oil to places they shouldn't be. That is the thing to worry about versus too much boost. The stock CR engines can handle boost more than the 24valves but it will send the egts through the roof and could lead to melted pistons cracked valves ect.

The sacary thing about it for me is our food supply has been compromised in a huge way by GMO crops through which the biggest resason being is to produce more biomass fuels rather than feed living creatures of the planet. People are too willing to put brand name poisons into their bodies rather than whole natural foods and then wonder why they are sick with illnesses and diseases. See the connection between GMO super foods and the ever growing Super bugs like MRSA ect?