Wild and Free

Just attend one of the auctions at the site posted below and pick the one you like. Maybe you will hit the jackpot before you go to the auction. http://www.barrett-jackson.com/

Replys in red within the quote.

Most likely the IP shaft then. I have heard of flex plates breaking also but they usually make bunch of racket when they go.

I just removed the bottle and added about 10 feet of hose to the existing hose and ran it back through the frame rail and came out just in front of the fuel tank so it hangs just a bit. Maybe a drip or two from the end of the hose on hard use days where it gets parked but not too often.

If you start it and put it in gear then try to put it in park with it running, if the input shaft broke you will have nothing, if the output shaft broke it will grind like heck as the tranny internals are spinning yet but not out the back and the park lock is trying to catch. This is a good indicator of input or output shaft breakage. Output shaft repair doesn't require tranny removal, just remove t-case if its a 4-wd, and then unbolt the OD section of tranny 4-6 bolts Can't remember right off and take it to the tranny shop to swap as it requires an intermediate shaft and a press to reassemble to align the splines in the OD clutch pack.

I know this from working at several different shops over the last 20 years. I am a professional Diesel tech as a living so I know a thing or two about how the system works. This must have been the mechanic who worked on his rig.

If you didn't sign a work approval or work order or if they did not contact you about what was wrong and what was needed and the cost before repairing it, you have a case against them.

Metal flakes and dust indicate a failing bearing or race or a ring and pinion starting to flake. This will cause the rumble you describe, time to pull the carrier out and inspect. A small amount of super fines is normal, if there were flakes its time to dive in, there should never be flakes, flakes are bad.

External pinion checks....seal leaking? any movement at all in and out up or down indicates a loose or bad bearing on the pinion. If thats good pop the front diff cover off and see if there is any signs of excessive metal laying inside the housing. Then try to pry the diff carrier side to side to see if there is any excessive movement in the carrier bearings.

Its hard to beat BFG for longevity as their rubber compound is harder then most. I got over 100K miles from my last set of 285-75-16 bf ats but I had them siped when theywere brand new. They actually went for 120k before you couldn't see the tread design anymore. But it wasn't me, I sold them to a friend who run them skin head bald. I just replaced my OEM original Bfg rugged trails and they had 85k on them, could have got more but I got a flat and just replaced them as winter is coming and there wasn't enough tread for winter driving. Remember 1 critical point......The more rubber in contact with the road the longer they will last. Which is why Mud tires wear out fast. More aggressive open tread design = less life.

They used to send me discount codes via e-mail but I haven't gotten one for a long time. I actually use it quite a bit so they must have figured I wasn't making them enough money.......

We have a local tire shop with a 2wd first gen cummins with over a million miles and have done nothing but clutches and getrag tranny repairs a few times.

To answer your question..............Just stick with your tranny there is nothing to gain with a 48re over the 47 re once built.

Cost is About 5 times more than having a head job done at a shop. They come as a bare head and block. You need to swap every single exterior component over from old to new. Looks like a naked hunk of cast.

I added to the post above while you were typing also lol...

But did the Bluechip pump get a brand new computer installed when it was rebuilt or was it a used computer? I think I read that bluechip puts new computer on its pumps which is why they are mre expensive but was just wondering. Did it at any point in its life have a cheap downloader loaded onto it at some point......"AKA" superchip. I have seen personally and heard other nightmares of superchip programmer issues that screwing up ecms and leaving bad problematic program traces behind. Have you had a Dodge dealer do an ecm update reflash to get the factory programs back? That is the only fix for the mess superchip tuners leave behind.

I haven't followed this too close but did the new VP44 come with a brand new computer or was it a gereral reman? and have you swapped out the engine mounted ECM yet? I have a similar issue with my 02 and have just lived with it for several years. I am leaning towards the engine ECM or the VP44 computer throwing fits once they are heat soaked, I will run it until it causes other issues,until then I just put up with it. More so think it is the VP44 as I noticed it started not long after a VP44 swap. Although the ecm isn't original on mine either thanks to Smarty. It crapped out on only the second download and left me sitting in the middle of nowhere. But Bob wagner sent me a used replacement ECM on his dime so cudos to him for that.

If you were that far you should have sprung for a shift kit/aftermarket valvebody and a better converter and taken out the rest of the week linksw so it would live basically forever in a stock rig. The reason for burning up clutch packs is because the stock valve body supplies such low pressures. Oem does this purposefully to sell more parts and service.

Are you a member over on TDR forum? I think I see your username over there a bit. Edit......... looked you up over on TDR and sure enough thats where I saw you at before.

Dave Goerend is a one stop no BS business. here is his link he is in Iowa. Warranty and customer service 2nd to none. http://www.goerend.com//

I would pull a main and rod cap down to inspect before waisting money and time on replacing main and rod bearings. I have seen ill maintained cummins with 700K miles and the mains and rod bearings still look like brand new. These engines are not known to wear out mains and rod bearings. Pull the center main cap as it will be the one to show signs of wear first if any will same with any inline engine. The most important bearing to replace with the pan off and having a manual tranny is the crankshaft thrust bearing.

I was referring to the statement above. I bought a used R134A Robinaire reclaimer/recycler for 300 bucks and resold it for 700 as I didn't use it that much. So the cost isn't as bad as you would think and if you think pushing about 3-4 buttons to reclaim with one is not user friendly then I can't help.

To correct everyone here...........Refridgerant needs to be reclaimed with a reclamation machine Not vacuumed out. as doing it with a pump is still just putting it into the atmosphere. As for pulling the engine you don't need to pull cowling wipers ect to remoce the valve covers or push tubes, They have small plastic caps on the bottom side of the cowling for just the purpose of letting the push tubes and head bolts slide up far enough to remove them. all go out and take a look/feel and you will find the round plastic plugs that can be removed on the bottom side of the vent cowling above the rear of the valve cover.

Do one at a time otherwise you will fight them back in if the axle pivots ect. Soak up the bolts pretty good with penetrating oil as they can be a bearcat to get loose and out some times have a torch handy to heat them if they are stuborn. If you have acess to 90 degree grease zerks get them as it is a pain to grease them with the straights they come with "I have a set of these on my 02, thats why I know these things" I have to grease mine with a 90 degree jerk adapter which is a pain.

And you think 188k miles is a bad thing????????????? 99.999% of people would be tickled to get that out of any tranny new or used.