Wild and Free

If they are both chrome wheels I could see it working. There is a difference in 2nd gen wheels also, I have heard that the OEM aluminum wheels from 01-02 with factory rear disc brakes will not fit over the older drum brakes. I have the OEM aluminum wheels on my 02 and OEM chrome wheels on my 05 and I tryed to swap the caps and they would not work as the spring clips on the 02 are longer than the ones on the 05 as the 02 aluminum rims are recessed about a half an inch. If I put the 02 center caps on the 05 rims they stick out and the cap is spaced about 1/4 inch away from the rim. If I put the 05 center cap on the 02 wheels they go on the lug nuts but do not go on far enough to snap over the neck of the lug nut.

The leaf spring saddle needs to be cut off and moved as well as shock mounts. AAM gears came as 3.73. or 4.10 Dana was 3.55 and 4.10 options. 3rd gens do not come with a sway bar option like the second gens did.

I can find lots of used 3rd gen rims but nobody has the center caps for them around here. Not sure where they all went.

I am looking at picking up a set of used factory chrome 17 inch rims for my 02 and was wondering if the center caps from second gen 16 inch wheels will fit on 3rd gen 17 inch rims? I could go out and check for myself but I am feeling lazy and am ready fro bed. --- Update to the previous post... Well to answer my own question................................... NO they are not interchangable, the center of the rims are shaped differently and the center caps are not interchangable either way.

Actually backwards. The 03 was ecm controlled temp activated only just the same as the 2nd gens and do not have the cruise control option. Diference is that it will ramp up even if the engine temp is already warm if the intake temp is cold enough, I have 2 friend with 03's and they will automatically ramp up in cold conditions even after its been warmed up to operating temps. 04 and newer have both temp activated and cruise control activated modes.

This is a topic much like many others, Subject to personal opinion. After searching about a dozen forums and talking with people with diverse backgrounds I came to the conclusion that KYB is the brand to be compared to. Much like you claim Bilsteins are. What i CAN SAY FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE IS THAT rANCHO 5000 Are good but only for a short time which is where sears lifetime warranty comes in handy, Monroes just never cut the mustard for my type of use, I have personally never tried Bilsteins and am not cutting them out or down. Just giving out some info I researched on. Base it off what you want but I read well past Dodge Cummins sites. Not trying to be argumentive just trying to give a different view. You will have good and bad expieriences with every product on earth based on type of use and what is preferred such is life.

AH64ID has a 3rd gen CR and when it is enabled on those you can just activae it through the cruise control buttons. But not on the 03 models it was automatic like the second gens and can't make it work with the cruise.

If you have a Sears near you they offer lifetime warranty with free replacement labor. They carry Monroe and Rancho. I have had mine warrantied several times on several pickups, seems Rancho 5000 only last 30-40K miles like clockwork They are shot. Never failed to die at that range on my last 5 pickups. Sears just loves me. My last set I went through Rockauto.com and went with KYB after talking and researching many different venues of forums. The only forums that promote Bilsteins are the Dodge sites for some reason every other forum bashes them. I like the KYB shocks so far on my 05 and almost a year on them.

I learned something new today..........I thought the fooler was a forced Fast idle, I didn't think it needed to be enabled also. If it needs to be enabled then I see no use for a fooler especially At $3.30 a gallon . Only needs a couple minutes to get cylinder temps up to drive it safely and easy for a couple miles. If you want hot air in the cab install an in cab heater. Or find a woman to ride with you.

No need to have the high idle activated if you are going with a fooler. There is no issue with wear, it just causes an artificial load on 3 cylinders to create more cylinder heat to warm things up a bit faster, It will only be activated under a certain temp and will kick out to just an elevated idle at a certain temp. Just to remind everyone once again, It is called elevated idle or fast idle, as "HIGH IDLE" is technically no load wide open throttle.

You will not believe how much quieter that piece of auger flighting with a pipe through the center will make it.

The heck it ain't because I am a year closer to retirement.................and a coffin.

I am just A few months away from the four O.

Sounds like either the caliper guide pins are not moving freely or the caliper pistons are not releasing completely due to internal rust or corrosion and keeping a bit of pressure on the brakes all the time.

There are other products that would be better than dual alts, there are Generators that look like alternators but can handle much higher loads. We run them on a lot of Mine equipment that have like 4 million candle power worth of lights "Just an exageration" but probably not far off for some of them and that sit and idle with them on for extended periods of time.

Its been around for a long time One of the first for the VP44 and is a box for all out Maximum performance. Not really the best choice for a daily driver.

Thread inserts have to be drilled bigger than helicoil because it is an actual threaded insert unlike a helicoil which is nothing more than a spring style replacement thread which will not hold as much load or take as much torque as a thread insert. Also most thread inserts have notches on them that prevent them from backing out once installed but some like the brand I posted have loctite on them already. A lot of times a helicoil will work loose and ocassionally will come out with the bolt when it is removed. Helicoils are good for exterior minor places but not to be depended on in critical areas. Hope some learn a bit.SmokeyI am not familiar with the brand you listed but I would asume most are about the same thing.

Just a bit of info here on helicoils. I would never use them in an internal application that requires strength. There are better products for what he would have needed to do called thread inserts. Here is a link to a thread insert, which is stronger and more reliable than helicoils. http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/index.html

TV cable is the correct term for it. Throttle valve adjusts tranny internal pressure based on throttle position. I am still leaning towards the Gov solenoid or the solenoid spool valve. Codes will indicate a gov solenoid issue.

I suppose its a super 10 which is an auto shift that splits the shifts for you in the top 2 holes IIRC. Or the eaton full auto Manual trannies. Has an allison automatic style shift pad with a clutch pedal which is for nothing but stopping and getting started and direction changes. the computer fully controls the engine rpm and shifts once the clutch pedal is let up.

Amsoil is a compliant oil for all Auto trannies, I swapped my 02's stock tranny over to amsoil at around 20k miles and now have 120k miles with 60k of those being over 500hp and sled pull and drag race it. Have had a BD single disc converter and VB in it since 40K and it is still a virgin tranny except for the OP shaft I snapped and replaced with billet.

Every engine tranny config will be a whole new learning curv again. Most newer engines are about the same as far as shift points and how fast they decell, Want to really learn how to drive??????Find an old truck with a 2 stroke detroit in it with a 13 or 18 speed tranny in it and master that and you will have no problems with any other truck. The rpms drop so fast on them that you have to shift extremely fast both up and down. I learned to drive truck in a 22 foot 1970 IH Grain truck with no power steering and astraight piped 6-71 detroit with a 10 speed in it.:banghead:

Make sure the Governor cable is hooked up at the tranny. It is the linkage in front of the shift linkage on the side of the tranny, it comes down from the APPS also know as the kick down cable. There is an adjustment to it also but will have to look it up. It sounds like it is related to the governor circuit, I would pull the pan after checking the cable and seeing if it is ok, then pull the governor solenoid valve out and clean it up, it may have something in it causing it to hang up.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>AMSOIL.................... The only way to go for tranny oil.

You have 3rd gen which the smarty is a perfect match for, smarty on a stock second gen is OK but if it is modded in any way 2nd gen smarty isn't the way to go. I ran one for a few years on my 02 in different configurations and it wasn't a good fit for what I already had done. As far as I know only the regular comps with the Hot unlock feature have the issue I describe. I have not heard any problems with the Juice boxes.