Wild and Free

Blueox, thats assuming he did have the stuff with "slickdiesel" I have not seen that newer stuff I still see the original 911 all over the place. Better to pour straight #1 in the fuel filter and a bit of 911 in the tank as a last resort. Not that hard to carry a bottle of #1 for the fuel filter. My point was he already had it home in his garage so he did not need the 911, he could have gone another route.

Sitting at home while a blizzard blows by. -15*f and 30+mph winds tonight make for -45 and below wind chill factors. Wife and I will snuggle on the sofa and watch movies eat junk food and drink at home where its nice and warm by the wood stove.

should have never put 911 in the fuel filter housing directly. thats like commiting fuel system suicide. If you haven't started it yet drain it back out and get some clean fuel inside the filter housing before you destroy your vp44.Then if you get it running top it off with a full tank of fuel and a quart of 2 stroke oil and hope for the best. 911 is for a dead horse emergency along the road not for 1 sitting inside a garage already:(

If its inside a garage already DO NOT PUT 911 IN THE FUEL TANK or anywhere else, set a heater under the tank to warm it up and go get a few gallons of #1 or winter fuel and mix it together. will be safer and better than 911. then let it run for a while to circulate the fuel and mix then hit the road.

What info did they use as to how and why they are ranked the way they are.

What are you guys talking about? Never heard of a GM solenoid fix for anything before.

How cold is it there? straight #2 should be good to around 10-20*F Pull the fuel filter out and see if the fuel is gelled in the can. Then we can go from there. What is fuel pressure? Also check the codes using the key method starting with key off turn it on off on off on but not to start position after on the 3rd time look at the odometer window and write down the codes as they appera and let us know.

Both those scenarios are debatable. I have read on numerous forums that the price for the kits will probably never recoupe itself in fuel savings as I have never seen any long term test show any more than half mpg gains. Most people don't keep rigs long enough to ever see the payback. As far a bearing life that is totally dependant on care and maintenance and grease quality ect ect ect.

Hp doesn't have anything to do with them breaking as I said they have been known to break on 100% stock rigs. Any towing is enough to break them its just the unkown that it helps prevent. 600-700 extra now could save you another 2500 down the road. Why is there such a misconception that billet shafts are only needed when towing heavy or for high HP performance?

nope, its just history in the memory of the ecm.

OBDII scanners can read all info on cars 1996 to present depending on how current the programming is in the scanner.

Is your rig a 4x4 or 2wd and what tranny does it have?back to your original post, to get the codes from it cycle the key on off on off on the third time but not to the start position and read the codes as they appear in the odometer windowthen let us know what they are.

Welcome, go to the user CP and fill in your signature so we know what you drive so we can better help.

I run a westac fuel pressure gauge and they do not require a snubber of any sort. Had mine for a while with no issues.

We have a little over 2 feet of the white crap on the ground already, just came in from cleaning the yard again. Already sick of it and we are just getting into winter. on course to be another near record winter as far as snow fall totals again around here, thats like 3 years in arow now. Ours is all fluffy stuff so far. But the lakes and rivers will all be full for my pontooning come spring

If its similar to the pumps on a second gen there is a screen in the valve when you take the line off the back of the tank back side of the pump and pull out the valve the screen is visible might be a 1/4 inch in diameter its a small sucker. I think I posted an article here a long time ago spelling out the pupms on the second gens.

Thanks for the reference, I was going to use generators as an example also but didn't want to type that much out.

I am close to that, usually takes 28-29 gallon when the light dings.

I see my paycheck getting smaller all the time........................... Must be flying around looking for the terrorist that are supposedly trying to poison the already poisoned food in the buffet lines.

Pretty much sums up every Dodge Ram I have owned as far as the 25 gallons to fill at 1/4 tank mark. be it the 2 gassers I had or the 2 diesels I currently own. The top half of the tank is always way bigger than the bottom half. usually get 300 miles at half tank mark and about 150 miles from half tank to empty.

You all frett the little stuff way too much. I work on diesels from huge to itty bitty and I can tell you that extended warm ups are over rated. I see diesels started in cold extermes all the time and put to work almost immediately with no ill effects on longevity or other.Just because coolant temps are not at full operating temps does not mean internal cylinder temps are not. Only takes a couple minutes to get cyl temps up and then its game on.

your Welcome, If you can live with it I wouldn't worry too much. I notice that coming off the road where the tranny temp barely see over 100*F it would almost always do it at the first 1 or 2 stop light when I hit town and then the temps would rise and it would shift fine once it warmed up during intown driving. I can tell the difference between the gov valve sticking and the BD pressure lock moving slow also by the way of the gov valve only causes delayed upshifts. but when the pressure lock hangs up it down shifts hard when coming to a stop along with delayed upshift whereas the solenoid didn't do the noticeable hard downshift.