Wild and Free

They are just as strong down low the reason for more cr.s is they fail injectors more often and it can be undetected and misdiagnosed and ran for a long time and that causes melted pistons and scored cylinders quite often. I know of many with bad injectors that had only a surging cruise control as a problem.

Take the super chip programmer and throw it as far into the weeds as possible never to be found again, they are junk and have always caused more problems than can be mentioned as you have just found out. The only way to fix this is to do a complete dealer reprogram/reflash of the engine ecm to get rid of all the traces that super chip programmers leave behind. They always leave behind problem causing bugs with their programmers. Sorry but you will need to go back to the dealer and part with more cash and tell them to do an ecm reprogram and explain that it had a programmer on it that left behind bad traces. They should do it for you no questions asked, don't just get a high idle flash though get it completely reprogrammed. Doesn't take any longer to do. Throw the programmer away and don't let anyone else get hold of it as the problems will just be passed along to some one else.

Its all about expansion contraction. If the seals are full of grease to where the grease is hanging out then the seal is not sealing and that lets dirt and water in through the process of heat related expansion and contraction. Dirt can migrate back inside the cups through this process not to mention water if the seals are purged and held open with excessive grease. This is the biggest reason non greasable joints usually last longer in normal operating conditions. The same is true with leaking seals/gaskets on any components. If oil can seap out then dirt can be drawn back in.

:smart:Bullett83 that is probably the most awesome piece I have seen in all my years of diesel forum whoring. It makes more sense and is more convienient and out of the way than the pillar mounts. You should get together with some production outfits and get more rolling out you could do pretty dang good on that idea.

They are in direct relationship once the smarty is thrown into the mix because smarty shortens the throttle pedal travel needed for driving versus no smarty and the TV cable is directly mechanically connected to the throttle pedal linkage at the vp44. Thus once the throttle throw is shortened the tranny pressure is in return lessened because of the lesser throttle pedal movement thus lowering the tranny pressures at the crucial time when smarty is pulling hard. Clear as mud? Plus as far as I know there is no difference in the valvebodies or any other tranny parts, you need to remember that the non tq management rigs are older and came from the factory with less HP TQ than the newer rigs.

First why do you want to go to 4.10 gears, Most who have them hate them. Second is how do you use the rig daily driver regular off road ect, There are many many many options for limited slip or locker diffs it just depends on how you use it and would like it to perform. Go to http://www.ringpinion.com/ and you can look and read up on lots of options and get an idea of costs for your Dana 70.

Precision is a very good joint. Depends on the conditions you run under, if in need of strength go non greasable if going for peace of mind knowing they are lubed with less need for strength go greasable. Personally I would stick with non greasables as I find they last just as long or longer than greasable joints. Most times people do not grease them with the correct grease and it shortens the life considerabley.

Department of Home land security considers us all terrorists, hell they even say paying for things in cash is a suspicious activity and should be reported now.:banghead: We are all guilty until proven innocent now days. Which by Obamas executive orders have even taken the right to be represented away if by the rules set by DHS fall within their guidlines as a terror act you are jail bait for life with no chance of even getting a trial. No joke its happening every day but the MSM doesn't report that side of the story. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngsKzdKNAmo

:doh:I won't post my 10 years of forum findings again but I hope for your sake you haven't already bought the cracked block. Because it will only continue to crack even after every "TEMPORARY" fix has been tried.

"Their sweat is like gravy to a hungry wolf!" :lmao:

Seriously man save that money for the real fix. if it was the shift tower you would have problems with every gear.

You need to get hold of Chris Snyder. He always has a pile of engines and or rigs he would part out for and engine. He is out of Iowa and he is on many many forums as CSnyder Here is a link to his business. http://www.ramboyz.com/ As for the already cracked 53 block I posted a why to stay away in another thread you had and why the lock and stitch or any other outer superficial fix will not last. In short the crack you see on the outside is a fraction the size of the crack on the inside of the block.

Not a mile less than 7500. I Worked at a shop that serviced a fleet of dodge 24 valve cummins when I left the high milage one was at 800k lowest mileage one was 400k and they did conoco 15w40 oil and always had 10-12k on the oil changes with just a baldwin full flow filter. These were over the road rigs that pulled 40-45 foot enclosed gooseneck trailers that were loaded heavy, every rig had airbags inflated very hard.

Because it causes shifting issues if it stays at full pressure. It will cause hard down shifts and can cause delayed upshifts in normal driving situations.

The way around what you are getting at and you are correct by the way on the lower pressures when the throttle isn't depressed as far with a smarty is to install a BD pressure lock. Some guys zip tie the tv linkage on the tranny back a bit "drag racers do this trick all the time" But they zip tie it back about all the way for max pressure a low rpm boosting for maximum internal tranny pressures.

I got the one on my 02 a couple hundred bucks cheaper due to it having been scratched during shipping which I could live with so they refunded the shipping cost back to me which was around 200 bucks.

With the factory rims I have had them rub on mud flaps if you have them and I have had them rub on the lower control arms, nothing serious and only at full lock turn. Just get funny looks from passenger when they hear it rub for a second.

I bought the ranch hand for my 02 off of e-bay for 800 bucks and the one on my 05 I bought at a local dealer for 1100. I looked for several years and found that ranch hand is the best bang for the buck. I like the looks of them better than others also but that my preference. I can say I have tested them both quite regularly on both deer and lets just say "Other things" and they are still flawless. Except for the one on my 05 where my wife thought it OK to wrap a chain around the headlight gaurd part of it and pull a suburban out of a snow pile on saturday. Didn't hurt the bumper but it scratched the hell out of the coating. She got a talking to and wasn't happy about it as was I not a happy camper. as I pointed out the receiver AND the tow hooks right below it.All I got was I knew I shouldn't have said anything to you about it. Good luck finding anything for 500 bucks unless you find a used one some where. And as long as they have been around and the number and popularity of them in recent years should be starting to pop up if you keep an eye out. I attached pics of both of mine.

The NV 5600 can be a but kicker for even experienced tranny builders. From personal experience working at a tranny shop I can say they arre a pain. Definately not for the unskilled. The shift rail system was not thought out very well on New Ventures part.:banghead:

Prowelder you have the letters wrong they are NV 241 DLD= Dodge light duty NV 241 DHD=Dodge heavy duty Dodge W150 and W250 trucks (except Cummins Diesel models) from late 1987 to 1993 have the two speed, fixed rear output yoke, NP241, chain drive aluminum transfer case. All 1994-2002 Dodge 2500 and 3500, 4x4's are equipped with NV241 transfer cases and slip yoke type rear output shaft. Dodge 241's have a planetary low range ratio of 2.72:1. There were numerous design changes in the 241 during its production life making parts selection a bit tricky without the transfer case build tag. Starting in 1994, the stock 2500 transfer case was the NV241DLD (Dodge Light Duty). Optional on the 2500 and standard on the 3500 was the NV241DHD (Dodge Heavy Duty). 1999-2002 Ram 2500 and Ram 3500 4x4 trucks with the High-Output Cummins Diesel NV5600 6 speed transmission use the NV241DHD. 1994 to 2001 Ram 1500 models can have either a NP231, NP231HD, or NP241 transfer case depending upon the year, engine, and transmission combination. The NP271 manual shift and NP273 electric shift, chain drive transfer cases are found in Ram 2500 and 3500 models effective for the 2003 model year. These transfer cases feature larger rear output shafts to handle the ever-increasing power of Dodge factory engines. The redesigned 2003 Ram 1500 debuted with a re-worked NV241D transfer case that is not interchangeable with prior models

To replace the seal just requires removal of driveshaft only then pry the seal out and gently pound the new one in, simple as that. Seals are only around 15-20 bucks so it won't hurt to replace it, not saying it isn't bad as they do dry out and get hard over time.

That would be the end of the Transfercase. There is just a seal there that the slip yoke of the driveshaft slips into. You will not loose enough oil from that seal to hurt anything. The oil drain and fill plugs are on the left side on the back and are allen head plugs requireing allen wrenches to remove. just remove the top one and top it off. the t-case only holds 3.5 quarts of ATF. Or just change the fluid. You can replace the seal but generally unless you take the t-case apart and replace the output shaft bushing it will always have just a drip hanging from it. Don't worry about it unless it starts leaving puddles. I have replaced many many of these and they always have a drip of oil hanfing off it no matter what.

I did a 3rd gen upgrade, but to try it again would go with lukes links on one end and energy suspension bushings on the axle end. Over the years I have gone through a pile of moogs also and they last no longer than the factory ones.

I use an air hose and blow back through the front tranny cooler ine into the TC and it gets about an extra 1-2 quarts out of the tc itself. Just pressure it up a little bit and hold pressure on it as it has to push it back through the pump so its kind of a slow process and I also blow through the cooler lines to get as much of that oil out as possible. total it probably gets about 3 quarts more changed than just draining and refilling. No these lockup converters do not have drain plugs like the older nonlockup tranny converters had.