Wild and Free

Whats a hellman sump? Never heard of this one before. People seem to have forgotten the factory pickup tubes in the module that like to crack. This has always been an issue with a lot of vehicles not just these. I have seen nobody bring this up yet. it can crack and cause it to suck air at a certain level.

If you find no leaks after a pressure test and no water was evident in the oil, I would run it a while and watch it closer.

With the oil plug out use a coolant system pressure tester and pump up the coolant system with pressure around 15 lbs and let it sit and keep pumping it up if it drains down and do this for up to a couple hours and see if any coolant comes out of the drain plug.If it has a leak behind the alt on the right front of the block it is usually not wet as it just evaporates but it leaves a stain as it runs down the block this stain is what you are looking for. If you need to pull the head it is a really good idea to have it checked for cracks and checked for straightness and machined flat if needed.

Is there a milky looking goo under the oil fill cap? also if it had sat the coolant would have settled to the bottom so when you pulled the drain plug it should have been water draining before oil.If both looked ok then look at the right front corner of the head to block "behind the alternator" and see if there is a coolant trail running down the right front of the block, this is where they tend to start seeping externally. Also check to see if the tranny oil looks ok and the level isn't too high as oil coolers can go bad and cause coolant to leak into either the engine or the tranny via the coolers. Let the drained oil set for a while and see if it has seperated oil from coolant, the coolant will be at the bottom as oil floats on water.

Park it and drain the oil and coolant, don't want the coolant to set in the engines crank case either as it will etch the bearings. I would change the oil and run it for a few minutes and then drain the coolant and let it set unti you can fix it.

As long as its atf 4 it doesn't matter. I would do a band adjustment along with it while the pan is off when changing filter is best time to adjust the one behind valvebody. The other one is and external adjustment.

It should have gone through that same sequence twice first set is ecm second set is pcm there is a few second delay between sets of codes. you should have seen Pdone 2 times. ecm are engine codes and Pcm are the tranny and brake codes.

With the key off cycle it on-off-on off-on end with key in the on position the 3rd time but don't turn it to start position just ignition on. then read the codes in the odometer window and write them down as they appear. If you do the apps reset they may be erased now by disconneting the batts.:banghead:

These rigs throw a lot of codes that do not set the check engine light. In fact most codes do not set a CEL. BTW We want pics of the blonde riding shotgun in your sig:hyper:

to broad. any codes?

I have one for fuel psi ani it only blocks view of 4wd and wait to start light but i just look over it to see. gauges are not affected.

They are generally not required until you get into the 200+ hp injector range. But the other issues have been listed already.

No because the oil would still flow straight through and the little nipple on the end of the sending unit isn't that long once its installed in the T it would be barely into the oil flow if at all.

Put a 24V head on a CR block and then P-pump it like you would a 24v. I have seen a couple CR origin engines that have been p-pumped.

Best place is in the hot tranny cooler line from the tranny. It is the hottest oil in the system as it leaves the torque converter. There are a few different options to mount a sender in the line from a replacement line that has a sender mounting spot built into it to splicing a t in the line or this contraption. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ACUTEMP_ADAPTER Measuring the oil temp in the pan is the most inaccurate place as thats the coldest oil in the system as it has already returned from the cooler circuit. DTT transmission company sells replacement lines with a built in spot for the sending unit, not cheap but well worth the accuracy and peace of mind knowing it won't leak like splicing a T into the stock line.

X2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I have the same gauge from same place with 0 issues.

Trick is to pull it back fast and firm or hard but best if its done while in gear at a slow roll like stated above. once it gets to rolling in neutral then its best to shut it off and shift.

Different brands of tires have different rubber compounds that make them last longer. The torque that the new diesels have wears them out faster while pulling trailers also versus the older light 3/4 ton gassers that didn't have that much power thats why 235/85 was a popular tire back then, now days they are not that common as 265 and 245 tires have replaced them. I got over 100k out of a set of 285/75/16 bfg ats and had them siped when brand new on a 1/2 ton gasser and they towed on gravel a lot also. I can guarantee they wouldn't have lasted near that long on a diesel.

From what I have seen personally 235/85 tires just do not last especially if towing. Not enough rubber on the road.:2cents:I put a set of Hankook atm's on my 05 and they do extremely well inj snow and ice. Others in the area are likeing them also probably the best selling tire in my area the last 2 years, verdict is still out on how long they will last though.Probably the best all around seller for our area is the toyo tires.

Get a fuel pressure gauge also.

251 is the internal mechanical pump failure.........sorry time for a vp44Other 2 codes are vp44 failure codes also.you can Get a package deal from several diesel vendors for an aftermarket fuel transfer pump and vp44. time to do some shopping.

we were talking about the free spin hub kits that are made for dodges and fords.

First place I looked has them here. http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/9498-dodge-ram-25003500-recon-cab-lights-p-5951.html