Wild and Free

Did the old sensor have any metal filings on it when you pulled it out or damaged on the tip in any way?Do you have any unusual noise from the rear end? Just trying to rule out physical mechanical failures before jumping into the eletronics any deeper.

Yep like Mike posted, The rear park brakes are a drum brake and adjust up the same as any other drum brake. Its just that the drum happens to be way smaller and incorperated inside the wheel hub. It is possible and also likely that the cable has stretched also and that can be adjusted seperately as well but only after the shoes have been set up.

You need to figure it out similar to what ISX has posted. I hate it when people think that mpg is the only part of the equation. You need to figure it out as total cost per mile. Those who drive a diesel for a dailly driver over the life will see higher cost per mile as long as the price of diesel stays above gas more than just a few cents if they do not use it to tow or haul ect but if you reverse the scenario the diesel will have a really noticable lower cost per mile if the same scenario is followed versus a gasser.

I picked 12-14 although it varies greatly with conditions,habits,fuel quality and most importantly is what setting the Smarty Jr is on, ect.............. With 75 mph speed limits here I usually see 12 ish but have seen better and worse. Worst I have seen and it was only 1 time in 30++ mph crosswinds for 300 miles was 8.5. same conditions on return trip and even bucking the wind more head on was 12. So I think I got a bad load of fuel.That is the only time I have ever seen less than 11 on my 05 in 3 years of towing.

I think you misunderstood Mike a bit, The front wheels each have an ABS sensor, the rear differential has one on top of the diff housing. Take it out and see if it has a lot of metal on it as it is magnetized and will pick up the metal debris from the rear end oil and this will make it erratic. I have found in most cases that if it is erratic the sensor is still good and is just full of metal particles, if it has a lot of metal on it I would also suggest a rear diff oil change and inspection for potential issues. Once the problem is corrected the ABS light will go out by itself after the computer sees all the signals it likes after it is rolling, sometimes it takes longer than other times to reset itself. Edit I missed the part where you already replaced the rear sensor, So I would say its a front wheel sensor issue.

You should have held out for the release of their diesel, I believe this year sometime but not 100% sure on that.

Having grown up in the country and on a large farm with lots of wild critters and with neighbors with lots of honory dogs like all of the above posts I have long since lost my fear of being bitten, I actually want them to try and bite me. I have trained many dogs to respect me by letting them go for me then I shove my hand inside their mouth as far as I can and grab hold of their bottom jaw and pull hard downward and use my finger inside their mouth and squeeze down on their tounge really hard, it renders them helpless instantly and are at my mercy. some give up instantly some want to fight it for a few seconds but they all give up. I have had friends who have had me come over to prove it works and are amazed at my effectiveness. I am not mean to them and do talk them down calmly while I am in control of their jaw. some dogs become 100 % obedient to all and some respect only me from that day forward. I had one neighbor with a german shepard that would about level you when you got out of the vehicle so I told him I would try a scare tactic when I arrived and he agreed to it before hand. I brought my 45 lc along and when I got there he had the dog inside for me and it gave me time to get out of my pickup to be ready for it and he let him out and I unloaded 2 45 lc rounds off in the dirt right in front of his nose pelting him with gravel which the noise and resulting peppering of gravel scared the Chit out of him and he hid from us for about an hour but when he came out I used the calm talk method with him and from that day forward he met me at my vehicle door with nothing but respect and was the friendliest dog after that day but again it was just with me he was still mean to everyone else. But as I say I have no fear of getting a few teeth marks on me for this technque.

Machine work isn't all that expensive and I am not sure what seats run but they can't be bad either.

You do know that valve seats are replaceable..........Why buy another head, just rebuild the one you already have, you could go through a dozen used heads before finding one with no issues.

Nothing to worry about unless it looks like a grinder was after it and by then the vale stem tip would look the same. as far as the dots I think every engine I have ever been inside has paint marks on about everything these days from the factory.

The CR engines have a different sound to them, having a 24 v and a CR in my posession the CR has an ignition ping not to be mistaken for a tick or click. thats just the nature of the beasts, it took me a while to get used to it myself.

I missed the part that involves a side cutter...........

Women also refer to their posterior as "Junk in the trunk".

20 coats of paint??????? Remember the last 19 are only as good as the first one. If the first coat didnt stick it will all fall off. I hope you primed it first. Doesn't take much to brighten up an engine compartment.

aaaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOW I Need eye bleach!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, the further forward you get it the better it will do at reducing drone. Don't forget to order a couple of clamps along with it. https://store.ftediesel.com/home/viewCategories.asp?pageStyle=l&idCategory=6 I see you have 5 inch exhaust, the link I posted was to the 4 inch resonator, make sure you order the right one, they have them for 5 inch systems also.

It not the years, its the Miles and most of mine have been rough ones.

You absolutely need a resonator from FTE diesel. Here is a link to the product. https://store.ftediesel.com/home/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=13&idcategory=8 I put one on my 02 which was straight piped through a 5 inch single stack and the drone was killer. It kept the exhaust sound nice and all but eliminated the drone. If you search on other diesel sites it is the hottest thing going and I can vouch, I just wish I would have gone for the longer one, I did the 17 inch. The exhaust volume is still too loud for me, I guess old age is creaping up on me lol.. It actually quiets the exhaust down a bit with the 17 inch and from what I read it makes it about as quiet as stock with the 30 incher and Has no backpressure the way they are made. But it does what its intended to do and that is to eliminate the drone.

The reason for shooting Elk at 100 yards is that you rarely find them in the open or in clearings, they are usually in the forrest and 100 yards shooting through the trees is a long shot for an elk. I have a 30-06, 7mm rem mag 270 and 22-250. I use the 22-250 for everything especially deer.

How many miles are on the tranny? Most likely the lockup clutch in the converter slipping. I could slip my stocker with nothing but an Edge EZ. If the tranny is in good shape you can get by with a better converter and valvebody. Going to a triple disc isn't necessary unless you want to go big and abuse it. I have been running a BD Valve body and single disc converter rated for 400 hp 750 tq and I have been over 550 hp 986 tq for several years and sled pull with no issues.

It works but then on mechanical actuated injector engines you add the injector adjustment to the mix and it gets even more complicated. Then you go to Cummins inner base circle versus outer base circle adjustments and your head will spin.:ahhh:But that is on the bigger engines.The STC engines were different again and on and on, then detroit then cat engines and I am getting way off subject here but the simplicity of some engines is great for the do it yourselfers.

Another company that offers the same thing at an even higher price. http://www.dynatrac.com/products_freespin_dodge.html From all I have read mileage gains have been minimal like in the tenths of a mile per gallon gain. Not enough alone to pay for itself. Guys who like the extra strenght and ability of service like them a lot over the unit hub bearing. Onr thing to note is that the new lockout hub does stick out past the tire/wheel a bit but, this turns off some people.

Replacing just one injector is a crap shoot. If one is bad it will not be long before all are bad. They should have replaced all of them as a set. So be prepared for more injector failures at that milage. I personally would not take possesion having done only one injector unless they can prove the mileage is low on the rest of them.

Is it an 04 or an 04 1/2? If it says 305 hp on the engine Info tag it is an 04 if its 325hp its an 04 1/2.

No difference.