Wild and Free

The set you purchased is the same kit I have and it will not work on the 3rd gens at all and is why you need the larger C-press. That kit will also not work on a few other newer front ends that require the larger c-press also. so if you are thinking to borrow it out to others for anything newer than the dana 60 I can tell you from first hand experience that it will not work. Here are a couple places I found to buy the set for 3rd gen ball joints along with all other new style vehicles. I wound up getting my old ball joints out but couldn't install them with the kit we both have, but the local dealer lent me their tool for the install on my 05 when I installed the Carli BJ's. http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC8031 http://www.mile-x.com/otc-8031-ball-joint-press.aspx

The one you posted would work, I did not realize it was a cooler with a fan attached, my bad I just don't know where you would find a good spot to mount it. You have to also realize that the factory tranny cooler is probably about 2-3 times bigger than the one you posted so you could see where getting a higher volume of air through that one would work too. Not to mention colder air conditioning and cooler carged air into your intake and cooler engine temps. Plus the gained power from not driving the mechanical fan all the time going down the road ect.

I think flexalite actually makes a set of dual electric fans for the cummins application for around 500-600 bucks. The problem with adding another cooler is giving you nothing but added capacity and while driving in city stop and go traffic you still have the same problem of lack of enough airflow to cool things down, it may take a bit longer to heat up the extra oil but it will eventually heat up just the same without a way to flow air to disipate the heat.

The 04.5 and up have a TPS rather than an APPS.

If it is an 04.5 it will show 325 hp on the engine sticker. if it shows 305 or 315 can't remember right off exactly it is an early 04. Next years models do start during the prior year but they always make the next years upgrades during mid year runs and nobody has figured out why but Chrysler has done this forever.

In my neck of the country extra tranny coolers are not needed much. If a rig spant a lot of time in stop and go traffic or towing in such I would be more prone to steer people towards dual electric fans versus adding extra coolers.

Our last 2 summers have been cooler and wetter than normal around ND also including this one as its going. Makes for a short pontoon season.

Glad to hear it finally came together for ya. Temps will vary greatly depending on conditions,load, ambient temp, speed, weather or not the tc is locked or not ect. It would be safest to keep it under 220. Higher temps for a very short time with synthetic oil won't hurt it but not too often if so more frequent oil changes are needed. If its over 220 I would let it cool down a bit before continuing.

Mike posted 800+ in his post which seems to be a standard price for all 4 from what I have read on other sites as well. If you don't have the tooling it is best to have it done by someone with the tools and knowhow.

Glad I live and WORK here in good ol reliable North Dakota. Jobs are plentifull here.

I read a snipit from a thread here about adding freon with stop leak in it..........................VERY VERY VERY BAD IDEA. Would you pour in stop leak into your crankcase to stop an engine oil leak??????????? No, you just created a more expensive repair rather than finding the leak and fixing it. You will most likely trash the compressor and or plug the orifice tube along with the condensor and evaporator, some of the sealers added can be caustic to aluminum also.

I have front leveling spacers also to compensate for the weight of the ranch hand. It sits 1/2 inch higher than stock in the front now. My usual daily driving average with smarty jr on level 2 towing mode is around 16.5 also. but it does better with cooler air 30-70 is the best. I read on numerous threads/forums that smarty jr on level 3 performance yields the best results for milage and this test shows it is accurate info.

Those were my thoughts as it was windy the first day and poor fuel is always a possibility.

I thought of all of those things but it did it going straight down table top flat smooth roads.

Well just got back from a round trip vacation to phoenix AZ and then up to lake havasu up the colorado river around lake mead and over to Lake Powell and back through the mountains of colorado and back home. 9 states in 8 days. Smarty jr on level 3 performance entire trip. followed all speed limits within 3-4 mph most times. 3620 miles total 10 fill ups with schaeffers soy shiel fuel additive every tank. worst tank was 16.8 don't know why it was so low. best tank was 20.2. overall average came in at 19.1 mpg which made me a happy camper. every tank was hand calculated. temps averaged in the upper 80's to 90's most of the trip with one day at 102. Fuel prices averaged at around 3 bucks a gallon overall. lowest was New Castle wyo at around 2.50 and highest was around 3.15. Prices vary as much as 40 cents from station to station right next to each other in most states except northern states. 3.73,auto 4x4 short box. quad cab, with access bed cover. Not towing anything but had a lot of camping gear with maybe 500 lbs worth of stuff. That is with a ranch hand bumper and 3 piece stampede bug deflector, mud flaps, factory running boards spray in bed liner. ect just to give an idea of weight. GPS showed 58.5 mph moving average overall for the trip.

Just got home from a 3700 mile vacation with my 05 and It has an annoying issue with the cruise control that I have never noticed before.It will out of the blue just kick out. no rhyme or reason. sometimes it will go almost an entire day and only do it once and the next day it will kick out evey 10 miles and then just come out of it. It doesn't turn off or loose memory it just cancels like i stepped on the brake. if I hit resume its back to normal. Brake pedal is up all the way and the p-brake pedal is up also as I checked that the first time it happened. It is so extremelly intermittANT that it would be a hard one to figure out I think. Road conditions and temp did not seem to be a factor. Anyone ever run into this issue?

Have you had an alignment shop set the caster up yet? That will cause them to wander horribly it needs to be set to a minimum of 3.5 degrees and if possible as high as 4.5-5 degrees. You can take and adjust the cam adjusters yourself on the front of the lower control arm you will generally be in the 3.5 degree range when they are at the max rotation. try it its easy if they cam bolt isn't frozen. To get it higher you need the offset upper ball joint bushings. I am pretty sure this is your problem. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html

Nope, just bolt er back up. The B series cummins is internally balanced. The dampner just takes up some of the harmonics that can cause annoying vibrations.

Just got done spending about 3 hours with a pressure washer trying to find my pickup and after it dripped dried for a bit i crawled under and found the problem instantly. The gravel rocks broke the rear axle speed sensor connector clasp and it came unplugged enough to loose contact with the pins. a couple zip ties later its back to normal.

I can tell you there are many many many so pumps putting down well over 600 fuel only hp out there.

Nope if it is in limp it will keep going to limp until the problem is fixed. When I did my BD VB it had a bad solenoid from BD and did the same thing and I had to replace it with another. Funny how electrical components can give fits out of the blue.

Actually a pinched wire would be a dead short to ground and would throw a low voltage code an open or cut wire is what throws a high voltage code.

Nothing unplugged as that was the first thing I looked at. Maybe will wash it up good and let it dry and check the wheel sensor tips for damage as It gets totally mudded up on my daily commute. I mud run 20 miles at a time.

I drove it home and all the gauges and speedo work. What gets me is no codes. It is raining and it is a total mud puppy from driving 40 miles of slop everyday but it was not on when I parked this morn and it came on when I started it this afternoon.

Went to work this morning and all was fine. Started it up to come home and the ABS and Brake warning lights in the dash came on while it was just sitting there idling. Tried restarting it and they self check and go out but come back on after a few seconds of idling and this is without even moving. No related codes present other than P1687 No MIC BUS Message No CCD/J1850 messages received from the MechanicalInstrument Cluster (MIC) module. But all my gauges work I think this one came about when I installed my fuel pres gauge a few weeks ago when I pulled the dash cluster back. Any ideas? This is on my 02.