Wild and Free

Spring and fall. I never miss doing a fall pre winter fuel filter change just to prevent issues in the dead of winter and to make sure there is no moisture in the filter can that could freeze up.

I am a bit confused yet as the Timbo apps still had to go through the key on pedal to the floor and up key off a couple of times. So if it doesn't need to be calibrated why does this calibration sequence still need to be done just like the old OEM style? I asume the ecm/pcm needs to see the new voltage values but would it need to be redone after unhooking the batteries evey time like the oem or was it a one shot deal? I have seen no one else question this and details quit after the initial recal sequence.

Any Jiffy lube will take it also. most places have a vender pick up used oil for free as they turn around and resell it to paving companies for hot mix pavement and road crack sealant ect.

E-bay has an endless supply of New upgraded HX35 turbos with the 4inch exh flanges ect, all for around 300 bucks.

Just because you found oil in the CAC doesn't mean a bad turbo. As I posted in your other repeat thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1684-Help-!-Oil-in-air-inlet-tube?p=11791&highlight=#post11791 On the other hand I ran the BD super B and it was ok as an upgrade and with your 40 hp injectors I think would be a good match. I ran 90 hp injectors with mine and that was a bit much fuel for the little B as It would get hot egt's fast, 40-60 hp would be a good match. Where are you getting prices because oem replacements can be had for around 500 bucks as BD and ATS kits start around 1100-1200 and up.

Here is a used posilock system for sale if you are interested. http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3866

Jeez my wifes old windows 98 computer is still chugging along just fine yet. Doen't use it for internet use too much for sppeed issues but as for office computer it still gets the job done.

With the symptoms you have I would definately have it pressure tested first but you can definately change filter and fluid and adjust the bands to see if it helps first. you would be wasting your money if you put all the goodies into it just to find out the pump or a seal is bad. You could also have a bad governor solenoid valve but that generally causes different problems than what you have going on.

Hey I see you added my little time and labor saver of only removing thee lines and leaving the other three on the engine to the writeup.

Check out this link for details. http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1508

The air turbulance is what it is meant to reduce. As the pic Mike posted is the best way to go about it if serious about intake improvements. Mill off the cast intake and drill and tap the head and that way the intake ports can be ported for better airflow.and bolt on the aftermarket intake manifold. There have been many thread on other forums where it has been proven time and again where just smoothing and cleaning up the factory intake cover and porting what is reachable in the intake housing itself has contributed to better spooling, egts and HP numbers.

Hope you did't spend Too much for a used pump. Your core isn't worth much unless someone has a good one yet and needs a core for an extra. Most co's charge 200 raNGE FOR CORE CHARGE. Stock used turbos are only worth 200ish depending on purchaser as new factory turbos are only 500ish.

It is fairly common to find oil there. If the filters were ever fairly plugged and towing heavy it is possible to pull some oil past the seal as there is a vacuum created in the intake at the point of pulling the restrictor gauge up.. Duramaxes actually say to remove the boot and clean the oil from it at regular service intervals and I think there is a drain valve on some newer ones.

Good point Mike I forgot to mention that also.

Its missing a loader and snow blower I would like to upgrade to something along those lines from my 1957 Ford 641. But just can't justify the price tags the newer FWA tractors in that size range bring.

We have a local guy here who tows daily at over 40k lbs. And he passes everyone once he gets wound up. has a 99 4X4 dually ext cab and has a 40 foot gooseneck and hauls a 580 case backhoe and 1845 case skidsteer at the same time.Plus a loaded tools box and diesel service tank in the box. He is also too cheap to upgrade to a better clutch and has hired help blow the center out of the stock clutch about every 6 months. Rig is 100% stock. Not endorsing this type of action but just letting you know what is possible.

2002 Dodge Ram cummins 112K 2003 VW Jetta TDI 140k 2005 Doge Ram cummins 78k

Just unbolt the steering column from the dash frame and lay it back on the seat and then unbolt the dash and pull it back from the fire wall but there is no need to totally remove it. There will be planty of room to get at everything with it layed back also. It is pretty self expanitory once you can get those two layed back.

I have been using a 5 dollar craftsman steering wheel puller for years and it works great. Do not forget about Scheids for any Cummins related parts. They have always been top notch as far as fueling components go also. http://www.scheiddiesel.com/prod_display/Cummins+Engines/55/Injection+Pumps/0.php

I have read tons of articles about the Fitch and The only good thing I see about them is in the Magazine articles, I have never read a thread of anyone actually gaining anything from it in the real world.

Actally has to do with having a rather large turbo from Industrial Injection, its a "Silver 62" that likes fuel and lots of rpms to get it spooled up to where it keeps egts in check.

I have not seen one in person but I believe it is a pull type cable.

You need to remember that it only holds 3.5 quarts of oil and has no cooling other than air flow and it takes all the power transfered from the engine unlike the tranny which holds around 4 gallons and has 2 seperate coolers.

I picked 2000-2100 just to split the difference between my 02 and my 05. The 05 will tow at or below 2000 but the 02 being modded like it is needs to stay at or above 2100.

Then you can remove all the vacuum piping from the axle back to the t-case. if you don't mind having a big cable handle running into the cab.