Kotta390

That was one thing I made sure go back in place after I took the stock filter housing off.

Anyone recognize this buzzing? I have tried to adjust the needle valve and it doesn't seem to make any difference??

I don't have an isolator anymore.

Oh ok gotcha. I was trying to figure out the buzzing noise. Here is the video.

Which part is the regulator? I did however tighten the needle valve till it closed and then I cracked it open a full turn and the noise went away so far.

Anyone?

So I go the boot on Friday and I just want to say even with lubrication that was a massive PITA. I had to disassemble the hot side of the system so I could get it to line up and fit. It took me and another person to squeeze on that boot to the hot side pipe with the help of a small flat head screwdriver. I never cussed so much to put on a boot or a hose in all of my life. Anyways the old boot had a slight tear in it. After installing it all I found no difference in power, boost or anything? Kinda weird if you ask me..

Figures... lol On another note I have noticed the gauge making a faint but fairly noticeable buzzing noise which is not very rhythmic in nature. The needle itself has stated to "Shake" a teeny tiny bit but I don't know what is causing that. I do have the needle valve in place but I have yet to recheck it since install, I wonder if it has loosened up some?

The new T-bolt clamp I have is 3.5" and it will work great, only problem is IDK if I can get my old spring back on there. I will try at least otherwise I was told it is not necessary

I am going to that place at lunch and bring them my boot and see what they can do. I am pretty sure I need a 3.5" T-bolt clamp.

I found a place nearby that might have them. Does anyone know the size of the clamp? Diesel Power Supply has clamps from 3"-7" they mainly deal with the bigger cummins.

I'm in need of one bad! Somehow the one I have broke. I can't find one just anywhere. It's the larger size clamp that hold the boot on the inter cooler.

Makes sense, what causes it to stick?

Mine AD150 has about 6k miles on it. It just does it so rarely and only if I really get on it hard. Otherwise it is fine. Since restarting the truck always works, could it be an electrical issue?

No I haven't because the it happens so randomly. Also my gauge is practically brand new and it's a mechanical ISSPro FP gauge. I am sure it is the pump and maybe there is something sticking in the line. Otherwise everyday at idle it sits at 18psi and on the highway I cruise about 16.5psi.

Every great once in awhile if I stand on the truck pretty hard or just a heavy acceleration, I notice my FP drops at cruise from 16.5psi to about 14.5-15psi. It is the strangest thing because if I turn my truck off and restart it, the FP is back up to normal and doesn't give me any more problems for a couple weeks. Has anyone experienced this before or know what is causing it? Very strange...

It was an A1Cardone rebuild.

yeah I did.

Oh god...that scares me. Who makes wheels for my truck that are lighter and won't cause me to sell my testicles to buy them?

I have done the research here cause I too have a racetruck (avatar) and I have been running 110octane fuel for awhile. I only need around 98-100octane but that's the lowest I can get in leaded conditions. It's about $2.00/gal more if I go with 100 unleaded and my truck doesn't have cats or 02 sensors so the leaded is fine.110octane is a Slower burn than 100LL and also has a slightly cooler charge from atomization. It is more expensive and has slightly more lead. 100LL is great but is not as fuel efficient as 110octane in the fact that it actually has less BTUs per gallon than 110 because it is not as dense for use at much higher altitudes. You can get the same basic results between both fuels but you will need to run the 100LL a but richer to achieve the same goal. Also it is usually about $3-4/gal cheaper than 110 and sometimes EGTs are slightly cooler with 100LL. All in all it depends on what you want to run. I have ran both and the 110 actually runs just a hair better in my race truck than 100LL but I'm only talking about .05-.07 better on average between the two fuels on the same day.

If I come to a stop from highway driving my EGTs will be around 300-350 at idle after about 30secs or so. If I let it idle for about 2-3mins it will dip down to about 250-275 and that's the lowest it will get if the water temp is at 190.

No aluminum wheels. I have a dually and they are heavy steel. Do they make lighter wheels for my truck?

I just picked up some Fastenal. 4 of them for $1.44 lol Thanks, I keep hearing about LMC, I might need to check that place out.

I PMd you

If you are interested in one I can sell the one I have to you. It is made out of T6 aluminum IIRC.