Kotta390

Well I got some bad news.. The bolt worked like a charm except when I started to tighten it, that's when I found out that the gear box is stripped out and the bolt was just turning in the gear box. The other two also have nuts and I suppose whoever installed this gearbox must have seriously used a one size too big of an impact and screwed up all the threaded mounts on the gearbox up. So it looks like I need to chalk up to buying another one. Now I need 2 more bolts for the new gear box, I think the 2 bolts In there already are a different thread pitch to begin with... FML..

I got it Saturday! Thanks a million bud! I will try and get it put on today!

Everywhere can at least get the 100mm length but not 115mm so nobody in town can get one. It sucks :/

280ft lbs??? I'll look in the service manual but getting new spindle nuts arrant uncommon. Almost all ford trucks are like that

Yes they are.

Well I am missing a bolt on my gearbox I found out yesterday when I noticed doing the power steering flush on my truck that the damn gear box was coming off the frame slightly. I found that this is the bolt I need but all of the local hardware store and even Fastenal doesn't carry this bolt. Does anyone have one of these laying around or at least know where I can get one besides the dealership?

Even if I want to buy a turbo back system, where do I need to start looking at?

Ah geez that's not what I was wanting to hear but it is what it is I suppose. Torque specs by any chance? Or can I use the elbow torque method?

I guess the supertech PS fluid meets Chrysler's specs? Also it makes sense on the wheel bearing, but what is bothering me is how to locate the actual assembly and the best price. I found a few but they were $230+ for one assembly.

1. What is the best place to get a front hub assembly on a 2001 2wd 3500? Mine is howling like crazy and I suspect is part of the ABS problem I am having. 2. I looked but couldn't find what type of power steering fluid my truck needs. What brand or type of power steering fluid can I use? Synthetic? Availability? Sorry for the newb questions Thanks in advance!

Well I maybe a hypochondriac towards my trucks integrity sometimes. Just like to hear what everyone else thinks and see what the general consensus is. Thanks man and thanks Mike. One other question, I have heard that a turbo back exhaust will lower EGTs is this true? Would it be beneficial for me to purchase a 4" turbo-back exhaust in the future?

It Idkrs about 300-325 after coming to a stop. If I let it idle for a few minutes then it will get to about 250. It's between 600-700 on the highway

Well after doing some driving with the new pyrometer I feel like my EGTs are a bit higher than they should be. Accelerating to 65-70mph by the time I get there I am around 900+ easy. If I do the same going up hill then I can reach 1100+ which is what bothers me. Mind you this is completely empty. Is this normal?? I am not lasting through the gears, I shift around 16-2000rpms depending on grade of hill. Anyways what do you guys think?

That's my plan with my truck. I instantly fell in love with my Smarty on just #5, the throttle response ans the low end torque was MUCH MUCH higher than stock. Problem is if you have a heavy foot and like to mash the gas, the Smarty is unforgiving and will give you lots of fuel, most of which will be black soot but it will get that Cummins purring!

I have a NV5600. I am out for MPG more than anything. I guess I will have to play with it some

Well I am on Catcher #5 so, adding injectors I need to possibly lower the timing? I need to play with the settings some but when I hear adding injectors and then all of a sudden I need to watch timing, that doesn't really mean much to me??

How will I be able to lower the timing on the smarty? I think it either adds timing or doesn't. Do larger injectors require less timing?

Well as long as my EGTs are normal I am happy. I don't know the history of the truck but it feels like it has stock injectors.

Well it will go under 300*F at idle if I let it stay there long enough but it takes about a minute. How would I tell if I had aftermarket injectors, do they keep the EGTs higher at idle?

Finally got my pyrometer installed. MAN WAS IT A PITFA to tap the manifold!!!!!! I actually couldn't get it tapped at all for a long time!! I got the engine hot, tried it, no bueno...tried using a heat gun on the surface, still no bueno. I even put ice on it thinking if I make it harder then the tap would grab....still nothing but pissing in the wind. I finally broke down went to the auto parts store and bought another 1/8 NPT tap and BAM!!!! It worked like a charm, stupid *** tap was more dull than I thought. After about 3 seconds it grabbed like a boss and started my tapping procedure. I got the power and ground hooked up and I absolutely love this gauge. New to me in the sense I have never seen one work except for CHT gauges in a plane. After driving for some time yesterday and today I found out that at idle my EGTs are between 300-325*F at idle and at 70mph it will fluctuate around 600-700*F. I even tried to get the truck above 1100*F and I barely made it there at WOT from 50-80mph 6th gear pull. I mean it barely made the very tip of the yellow on my gauge, so I assume everything is working like it should be on my truck. Thoughts? Is this all normal?

Bookmarked!

Sweet! Thanks! I think the 50 or 60hp injectors maybe on their way for me soon.

Will do, thanks!

So i have everything wired up, gauge, amplifier, probe. The only thing I have left is literally the power and ground. I spliced my power for all my gauges into the dimmer switch, but what have you guys spliced in for power for the actual pyrometer? I ran out of time yesterday and literally I was at the point of "eeny meeny miney mo." Any ideas that is a good 12v key source and not hard to get to?

So the DAP injectors are just as good as the bosche ones?