Kotta390

I need a double female 1/4 NPT. My plan is to remove the isolator completely and remove the 1/4 NPT fittings that are attached to it that connect the fuel hose and the gauge. So one side I can screw on the needle valve and then I can take on the quick dissconnect compression fitting vulcan includes in their kit and screw it in the needle valve and then re connect the 1/8" tubing. Should be a quick fix. I will call Napa since they deliver to my work lol.

That's where I was thinking about going. I have one a half mile from the house. It's either that or Lowes. Someone has to have it lol.

I actually need a double 1/4 NPT female Needle valve

I do like the idea of the valve to shut off the supply. I think I will skip snubber all together. Now I need to just buy a 1/4 npt needle valve straight through. I completely forgot that the fittings on the isolator are 1/4 npt and I can just remove those and put them in the new needle valve. This is basically what I need but there has to be a cheaper solution to this than $60! http://www.sustainablesupply.com/Parker-4F-V6LN-B-GR-Needle-Valve-1-4-In-Brass-F-p/w171164.htm

Or I could take the fittings out of the isolator and put this inline with it since it will adapt to the hose and the compression fitting at the same time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Brass-Needle-Valve-NEW-/390656308334

What about this to replace the isolator? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Snubber-p/snbr.htm

What "knock" am I hearing? Is this damaging to the engine?

Well I am finding it hard to find a 1/8" compression fitting on one side of a needle valve and maybe a 5/16" inlet side. Anyone come up with this style of needle valve I need? I really don't want to rip apart the a-pillar again cause I have done it 5-6x already and the damn thing is getting harder and harder to put back together.

I started hearing this as well after using 2-cycle oil. It almost sounds like an exhaust leak but it isn't that I can tell. It is very faint but you can hear it. It sounds like just one cylinder but I am having no loss in power or performance issues of any kind.

Just so I get this straight. The second part will be the union for the fuel hose coming out of the main supply to connect to the needle valve? The first part will screw into the other side of the needle valve leaving just a push on hose fitting? Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand. Oh and just so there is no confusion. I am not trying to remove the hose at all that is coming from the main fuel supply line, just trying to adapt from there to the gauge.

The oreilly links didn't work. I am assuming you are suggesting that use the current hose that is tapped from the main supply line?

Well I don't mind where the needle valve goes. I just need to know how to adapt it to what I have now. So I either remove the hose from the main fuel supply or I remove it from the isolator. Either one poses an issue on just "sticking" the needle valve there. I would honestly like to tap the line where it meets the isolator so what way I don't have to buy more tubing for cutting and splicing.

Here is how my isolator is tapped for fuel and then it converts that into the little clear tube that has anitfreeze in it. How do I convert the bog line to the snubber and then back to the clear tube?

I had to drive it again just now and the fuel pressure is now 5psi and when I got to my destination it is 4psi. Seems like there is no difference or fluctuation of fuel pressure anymore, no matter if I stomp it or cruise.

The fuel filter that came with the airdog is I think 3 micron filters and they have less than 600 miles on them. So to answer the question, now I havent but I shouldnt have to at this point.

What about having air in the line itself? It took me forever to try and "bleed" so to say the line when I was filling it with coolant.

Quick question if that is the case. Does the needle valve go inline with the tubing? IE: I remove the isolator and plug in a needle valve?

Yeah its possible.

I have a mechanical gauge, but I feel the isolator is causing a problem some how? The overflow valve? How do I check this? I don''t have another mechanical gauge btw.

Update*** I started it up this morning at 28*F and the pressure is now at 9.5psi at idle. I thought surely this HAS to be a temperature issue....well I was wrong. I also drove to the pump and put $30 in the tank and it is now well over a 1/4 tank. Still the same issue...9.5psi at idle. SO I drive the truck to work. There is no surge, hiccup, loss of power, nothing major going on again. Well, as I am driving I notice about 5 miles down the road I am at 8.5psi while cruising. As I come up to a stop light I am now 9psi idle....strange.... I am losing fuel pressure on the go now!! So I keep driving. I am now at my work about 20mins later and as I pull up to my work to park I notice the truck is now at 8psi at idle! WTF?!?! As I was driving somehow it was losing pressure VERY slowly. I still can't tell if it's the gauge or maybe the dumbass isolator I got from Vulcan or could it be the spring and ball already taking a **** with less than 600 miles on this pump??

@ Hexorz, Yes that is the unit. I am going to put more fuel in it to see what happens today.@diesel4life, that is interesting you say that. I hope that isn't the case since this unit is less than a month old.

I have the modified liberty module from Vulcan Performance. I think it's a DS1 style? The only thing I can think of is the fuel gauge might be off but it is weird that is was doing fine earlier in the day...? That Vulcan Module better not be sucking any air!!!

This morning I started my truck and I am sitting a very nice 18psi at idle and 15.5psi at WOT, nothing wrong here just normal everyday stuff. Temp outside is 68*F around 2pm Just now I went to the corner store and I started my truck, mind you there is not hard start, and I noticed the fuel pressure is sitting at 12psi at idle and 10.5psi at WOT(for a very short run). Now the only conditions that have changed is the weather. It is currently 9:15pm outside and the temp is 30*F. Now I am hoping this is just because the temp difference is such a drastic change that the fuel is thicker? I also have a little less than a 1/4 tank in the truck. Is my fuel pressure this low because of the drop in temp outside or do I need to look into something else?

So what pattern does the shifter take? If it is universal I can just buy a Hurst Pistol grip? I like those anyway

****...let me know!! I hate the damn thing I have now