Me78569

they share a 5v source. I beleive there are 2 5v outputs from the ecm. a short in 1 of the sensors can cause issues is the rest of the sensors that share the 5v source.

It could be. test for 5v at the quad main plug, 0 psi at idle tells me that hte ecm is not seeing any boost, so either you have a bad map sensor you have a short in the system.

Start by watching boost on the quad at idle, does it read 0? Next week you get on it does boost on the quad increase? Does boost increase smoothly or does it jump from 0 to say 16psi?

you need a computer and a cable. sounds like oyu have a mismatch between your base tune and the tune profile on your ipod.

Look up the spec sheet on your canbus shield, it will spec out what pin to use. I am guessing your screen might be using the same pin as the canbus shield.

I was running 250's or whatever you call 7 x .012's the 330 bar helped with smoke control, but I still had to pull duration down by ~%30 offidle to run smoke free. whats stock bar on ve pumps? ~250 bar for vs and ~270 bar for ppump? even at %10 above that you are well below where I was seeing issues.

cranking as close to open loop as you can get, I doubt your truck cranks at a different duration / timing than mine did. I doubt smarty messed with cranking fueling and timing. likely has to do with with the size of the injector. it got MUCH harder to start near that 20*f mark, also consider I am much higher in altitude. Point being that I have had reports of this same issue from others as well, I can't suggest it to anyone knowing that it does cause starting issues in the cold. the other member in canada that popped his own injectors ran into the same issue. It was like a light switch, just a few * difference and there was no issue, then bam issue starting.

better atomization. I dont think it has anything to do with timing. I noted a difference of smoke output related to fuel duration of ~6-10% IE: a truck with 330 bar pop could run %6-%10 more duration across the board without smoke compared to someone running 300 bar. I think raising pop pressure is not something you should be recommending to people. I noticed harder starts when it was cold at 330 bar. To the point of being dangerous if you needed to start the truck and it was cold, IE below 20*f It is also widely unknown what, if any, the long term issues of increased pop is. i noticed a better running truck at 330 bar with the 7 x .012's but I dont recommend people do that because I have no idea what the issue might be on the system as a whole ~12 months down the road. I liked what it did for my smoke output, but I think a WAY better solution for guys having smoke control issues is to upgrade their tuning. The S03 is not tuning for the current era. I kinda regret ever posting anything about pop pressure, it was not my intention to suggest to people to try it, it was only because I was bored and wanted to mess with it.

technically correct, I dont remember the context.

Next look at your board setup. Some canbus shields use pin 11 some us pin 10 or 9. mcp_can1 (); is what defines that pin. Verify using the documents on your can shield what pin it uses. then ensure you are not getting other transmissions on that shield. IE make sure your LCD isn't using the same pin in the code as the canbus shield. Or if your shield uses pin 9 then you will have to adjuste my code to use another pin of EBSwitch. I am guessing you have a conflict similar to that.

but something happens when you apply 12v to the actuator? take the arduino out of the equation.

Can you explain what " spools up for a second then stops" and "tt doesn't Jog rx is still solid lit" means?

http://quadzillapower.com/products/adrenaline/

It's not bad once you get your hands on it. If you want to see what it is like, download the app from the play store. Iquad by quadzilla. You can build your own tunes or import one of the ones we have here.

Cr man. 2nd gens are too old, which means they have history with 3 or 4 owners at this point. Someone else's issues are never fun.

make sure you know who the injectors come from. If they are reman's say no or get $$ off for new injectors.

Tuners do 3 things on a vp44 truck 1.Timing alteration: give a better timing curve than stock. you pickup some power, mpg, and control EGT that come with added fuel 2. Canbus fueling alteration. This is the majority of the fueling that the VP does. 0- ~300 hp worth of fueling. This gives you your "base fueling" 3. wiretap fueling. This give you ~%25 more duty cycle on the fueling soleniod that is not possible due to the communication protocols between the ecm and vp44 this is done by holding hte fueling solenoid to ground for a few US longer than the vp says it should. torque is somewhere in the ~+400 ft/lb over stock area when you are throwing a TON of fuel at you wouldn't be towing like that. I prefer not to push the fueling solenoid that hard, hence the bigger injector talk. what I prefer to do is use your timing and canbus fueling to give you a nice running truck, then use a bit of wiretap at high boost / high rpm to give you the fun street manners most want when wrapping out the rpms. So you will be at ~350 hp and ~800 ft /lb if you have a REAL aggressive tune ( note the realistic numbers, some get higher but I dont like to say that for everyone) . keep in mind we are talking whp not crank. A stock truck will do ~170-180 whp and ~350 ftlb to the ground Most setup a tow tune in the 300 hp / 600 ft /lb area and have nice manners with the hx35.

you will see codes cycle from both computers. 00's dont do both computers

~150 hp over stock on stock injectors, truck should run %100 clean if your tune is good. the fueling can ramp up as fast or slow as you want. It can also be set to hold steady at a given psi for a tow tune. Fuel eco shoul dbe better above 55 mph as you can hold timing where it needs to be. This is something the edge cannot do as the oem base timing map falls off a cliff above that 60ish mph mark. There is a ~6* hole in the timing map.

A couple of thing 1. I hear no audible difference at idle between the 300 bar and the 350 bar. I ran these back to back. 350 bar should be ~5* of timing difference. There is a VERY audible difference in that much of a timing swing. having played with timing that much it was very apparent that there was not a big difference in overall timing at idle. 2. when I compare idle state between 300 and 350 bar I see only a %3 diffence in duration command to keep the same idle. Again if there was that much delay in the fueling I would expect that duration command to be alot different to keep the same overall fuel injection the same. 3. 5* of timing difference on a cold truck would result in heavy white smoke. I know this because I did it during the trial and error of making the V2 tuning. going from idle of 12* to idle of 7* made the truck idle terribly. My idle with 350 bar was no different than stock bar. Keep in mind that you are only thinking about the starting point of the injection event. The actualy combustion event is what matters. With higher pop you are moving the front and end of the injection event, I am not sure the actual combustion event changes a significant amount. the finer spray would lead to the combustion event happening sooner as well, offsetting the delay of the injector opening. Biggest thing, is there way no real difference in how the truck ran with 350 bar vs 300 bar. I noticed because I was doing logging and testing, but the average joe would have no idea.

it allows you to set a timing curve you want. It allows you to define how and when your fueling ramps up. It allows you to choose how much wiretap and what boost to bring it in at. yes

no way no how there is no noticable difference in timing based on pop of 330 vs pop of 310. that 1* per 10 bar is myth.

use the phone number to call them some things are best done voice to voice

Honestly have no idea, I didn't deal with any of the App code or the bluetooth stuff. I would call Quadzilla.