Me78569

sounds like an issue with the ignition switch.

does the timer tab of the program show up? I believe it is the far right tab. What version are you using of the code? 1.11 or prior?

your error is saying it can't find the timer functions. are you using an uno or mega for a controller?

There are linked to the article, I don't have them anymore.

ship it to quad to have them update or do it yourself using the article we have. you need the iquad module regardless. Someone might have, I just trialed and errored until I found what worked for me. If you look at the S03 tuning I see timing at 18* at WOT and peak duration. I am guessing that is where you see peak torque number in the 1800 rpm range. then we see 19-20* of timing at cruise ~55-65 mph for generally peak mpg. your thinking makes sense to me, but i am not a tuner.

You need the iquad setup. You can ship it to the. For the update or you can do it using the installer package we built.

If it doesn't jump when you apply power then the actuator isn't working. You will hear a whine from the actuator as well.

If the veins dont jump when you apply power then the actuator is either bad, or it isn't getting power. the actuator will "reset" every couple seconds and reset back to full open over and over if it is not getting commands.

you can look at the can recieve function. if the data is being outputed by the turbo then it is in that data string. current temp is there, maybe there is historical as well. I documented the wiring in the article for the controller, I dont remember anymore what wiring goes where. Does the turbo veins " jump" when you apply power?

Doesn't exist on the turbo as I understand it. There is a canbus received routine in the timer function you can look at, but I never seen a history from the turbo.

put that on the list of things I wouldn't want to do lol

You don't have any of the libraries installed on your computer

If all your re after is # s then I would leave it. I wouldn't drive with the tune as it would be smokey as all get out. I would suggest you follow the tuning guide if you want a tune setup for your truck. There are numerous mid injector tunes in the tune area.

@24vcumminspower did

Light bars are the worst thing ever on public roads, no one ever aims the stupid things. I would suggest waiting until black friday / monday whatever it is and buying projectors at a discounted rate from retrofitsource. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bi-xenon-acme-h1-stage-3-kit.html these are good price and good optics for the price. they are a rip off of the mini h1 5.0 I think.

I dont watch most of that stuff lol

Nearly no obd reader will pull and codes, it's a different bus than what they read. Any run of the mill reader will pull engine and pcm codes.

The nerd flows strong with us lolol. My old truck has arduinos hanging off of the various busses. Dont kick anything or the truck might shut off hahaha

The 98-00 maps are good to 55 psi normally, the 01/02 maps read to ~42-46 psi. The quad reads map values from the sensor and the ecm across the unhood j1939 plug. as to the issue of the OP. Stock injectors likely dont have the fuel to push the turbo any harder. Not that you need to anyways. crimping hte wastegate may or may not have any effect. If you dont have the fuel to spin the turbo faster then the wastegate crimp wont do squat. I dont see that you have any issues, but I would be looking at injectors in the future so you aren't having to drive the injectors and pump so hard to make your goals.

never finished it.

He makes nice injectors. I really wish I could have tried a set of his injectors in my testing, but the $$ didn't work out. I believe bigger injectors are able to flow more fuel more efficent IE with less smoke under the curve when at the same hp. from my testing it felt like the truck had more torque across the entire rpm range with the same smoke with the 7 x .012's compared to the 7 x .009's if that makes sense. hard to explain, but think of it this way. in order to make 300 hp, small injectors need to stay open longer to inject enough fuel to hit the hp number, where as bigger injectors dont need to stay open so long to hit the same hp number. This means your "power" can be injected at a more exact point in time in the stroke, reducing egts and smoke.

without a doubt top fuel is awesome to watch, and electric wont be able to do the same. the numbers will be faster, but it will be less dramtic.

same thing for a hx35. you would only need minimal wiretap to hit the peak power a hx35 can flow air for. wiretap is REALLY good for extending fueling at high rpms, I dont like using wiretap to make up the meat under the curve. If I had my way I would not allow wiretap under 15 psi. I did testing with my hx35 and 7 x .009's and I needed too much wiretap for my liking.

robot racing doesn't make sense, there is no human error to make one team better or worse.....no one wants to watch a preprogrammed race. Whenever I have driven an electric car I feel like I am Han Solo. they make a pretty cool sound, but is it not as unearthed as a big block gasser.

%100 correct Too big is still an issue, but I would argue that there is never a reason to go smaller than 7 x .010's if you are going to be buying injectors. I think 7 x .010's are nearly perfect for a daily driven truck. good power while retaining ease of tuning. Beyond 7 x .011's and you start to have to work hard at tuning to keep it running well.