bigfish95971

Always good information and forwarded and reffered to others.

Transmission shifting issues after rebuild sent to Dynamic. Update. SNAFU still. Tried jumper wire. Ran a few days, no change. Put relay back in. Kept going with no first in morning after after 305 stoplights and Overdrive locking it self out in city traffic on warm days. Eventually started going into limp mode(third)regularly sometimes not going into first or OD at all. Replaced NSS and relay, did not help. Disconnected BD pressure lock cylinder to make sure it was not hanging up throttle cable/valve. I think it was dirty and not returning all the way. After doing so it ran perfect for two days. Then back in full limp mode. Drove to Sacramento to shop that did rebuild in limp mode at 2400 rpm and 53 mph. Got to Rocklin shop and temp was less than 160 with temp gun. I had them put in new/rebuilt standard valve body with full electronics. They still had some trouble after installation and said they thought there was still problems with the relay, but when I left it ran and shifted perfect for 2 hours and 120 miles. Shut off for 6 hours and got back in it and SNAFU it was back in limp mode when cold. Drove through town for 30 min and several stops and restarts and it worked again for ride home an hour and half. Let it sit for about another 10 hours, get in and start out again, back to SOS, in full 3rd limp,mode again. Drove back and forth around home again for 15 minutes and to full warmup and half dozen restarts, and wala starts shifting fine again with 4 and lockup all. Hooked up a voltmeter before running an got full alt voltage to relay outlet pin the whole time, so I believe relay is fine. I am betting it will do the same thing tomorrow am, start in limp mode and then start working after warmup and several starts like it was doing a couple of weeks ago, but from the first start, not after some stops. I am guessing I have a PCM or wiring issue. Any thoughts or can you tell me how to test the PCM. Do you have good diagrams for the PCM plugs so I can monitor signals while driving? I do not have a real scan tool. Can the right used PCM be installed without flashing in VIN? Can mine be reflashed to repair a corruption? Any other ideas appreciated.

Right there in top line mi= miles 650k

Copy and post what every you like of mine if ok with mike. (cut and past)

650,000 MILES! this past week Mine 99 2500, 53 block, lilt pump in tank now. 650k mi today. Afe filter cleaned once a year whether it needs it or o=not. Same with an oil change. up to 30k. Several years of constantly watching alt AC and lockup issues, One ECM about 3 ev44's, no issues since lift pump to tank. Rebuilt front end mostly once and several track bars until Good Moog problem solver.Engine or head never out, valves adjusted twice, one radiator leaked.cleaned external twice+two sets of starter contacts and one brush job. Couple of trani output gears in to the TC. NO other hard parts for trani. Nw that replaced the Tappet cover and Vacuum pump seal and sleeve again and controlled most leaks, not not more thant w spots of anything, pan seeps but never off. Uses Walmart oil from major mfg in Texas, Uses about a quart in 1000-2000 miles. GETS 17-21 MPG. DRIVE IT LINK A GRANDPA EVERY MINUTE. SELDOM OVER 54-62. SEMI'S DRAFT NICELY.

You probably still have major issues but? Clear codes and see what comes back when. Replace the Crank sensor and hop the VP is OK for now, it probably is short for this world. Load test batteries separately still. Re Check and re Clean all cables and terminals for corrosion. Is new alt free of AC and charging about 14+ volts? Tach, temp, and oil pressure gauges working fine now?

TC slipping can be a rapid shudder. But Lockup issues is not going in and out of third and 4th. It is going in and out of lockup while in 4th or 3rd if OD is locked off. It will repeatedly jump 2-4oorpm and then back to lockup, not usually called a shudder by most.

When dealing with it last time. My Napa store let me test them while running on their test machine, including under load. I wouild just suggest testing yours on occasion like with oil changes, or if you get a lockup issue, rather than a big investment

Noise limiters do not work because they do not prevent damage to the ECM and other parts. They only control lockup issues some. AC should be below .03v to be considered good. Issues and and do occur between .03 and .05v ac. at .1v or any time you are having issues it needs to come off today. The last Nippon's and Napa ones had .32 to .4 out of the box, about 6 of them and one was not even charging. The Bosch if found there(Napa) had .022v ac and it has been fine. I have put the Nippon's on before and they lasted 4 mo to two years before lockup or ECM issues came back. 2 years on the current Bosch still going.

$30 volt meters have a 2v scale that go down to 1/000v Moose, Considering all the problems with AC on alternators, and lots of other cars have similar problems, why aren't generators used instead?

Are you saying it is fine under heavy throttle? By shudder do you mean a rapid vibration?

Yea, I did that by accident.. I had a HO VP on it and it ran well. I put back on my BD Van Aaken Plug and Power for my SO VP. It felt like it gave it 200 more HP and I got shudder when I gave it throttle up hill. I took the Chip off and it ran fine for 5 years with the HO and had plenty of power (more than stock SO, similar to SO with chip) and I ran it that way for 5 years until I put an SO pump and the chip back on 5 years ago.

Correct. I was just suggesting the OP start with known issues get fixed first and then see what is left and work on them. Sometimes fixing one thing fixes others. I wonce had shuddering issues on a stock TC and it turned out to be too much power from the ChiP and VP set up I had. Backed off and has been fin ever since. Some times some shuddering, flaring or slipping can be bad clutches in the OD in it too. Sometimes Lucas additive can help for awhile.

Nope, the op stated he had a delayed boot up and WTS light. This defines a a bad ECM and he had one already acquired. So the first step is to fix already known problems with parts already on hand. Yes it is separate issue from PCM. But often lockup and OD issues are related to AC from the alternator which is also what caused the and will continue to cause the damage to the ECM. The truck needs to be thoroughly checked for AC before before getting into the PCM or Torque convertor. Throttle cable will cause shifting issues, but AC more likely causes lockup issues.

They look similar but are two completely different manufacturers, Napa has the brands listed separately, as do others. But there is less of the Bosch in stock, may have to order. I usually buy new..

I bought the Bosch, but there are others. The thing to is test for AC before purchase or immediately upon installation.

No, I am saying that the Bosch and Nations are better options than Nippon or Napa. I once tested several Nippon's and Napa's and they were all over .03v in the box, and one was even not charging at all tool. The Bosch was the only one that tested around .02v ac. Never messed with Nations, but others have said they like them.

When the throttle drops to idle validation voltage of about .5 v it should unlock. If that voltage is too high it might be keeping it locked up. Wiring or APPS issues could be the problem, but not necessarily

Did your buddy put gasoline in it?

Mine had an intermittent miss at idle with 550k on it. Was a bad injector. But check for AC from alt(due to trani issues too). Also check the Edge by removing for a bit..

Buy a brand other than Nippon Denso or Napa, Bosch, Nations etc. The Nippons an clones often have too much AC out of the box.

ECM is bad so get that one on, it is the correct part number for all 98.5 and 99. Takes les than an hour. Just remove bolts and plug. Probably bad from AC from the alternator, which may be causing other issues too. Miss may be bad ECM, if that does not fix it it may be a bad injector if it is intermittent miss when warm. Good luck with the rest of it.

If it is running smoothly you have no air in it at that time. Check the banjo on back of the head and re tighten or put the rubber washers back on. It is probably getting air in while sitting overnight. Does it start fine a few minutes after shutting off, but not while sitting several hours?