flman

Pressure is not the most important thing, when I charge systems that are fixed orifice the temp of the suction line is what I go by. Once that contains saturated vapor, it will become cool, and that means the evap is full of liquid refrigerant. You should not have any excess liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor. You best bet, is to take all the freon out, and charge to factory spec. As far as the excess oil goes, now that is another problem. As far as I am concerned they should not even be selling R-134A with oil in it. They compressor calls for a specific quantity, and there is no way to guess the correct amount. Taking the freon out of the high side is the best way to release excess oil.Also over charging tends to fill up the condenser with liquid, guess what, you need the hot gas to release the heat, hence the name condenser, you lose the effective coil area and capacity, condensers should be 2/3 gas and 1/3 liquid. Not to mention excess oil is taking up space in the condenser as well.Guess I am getting carried away with 26 years of refrigeration

The few V8 diesels I have seen in medium duty trucks were all dogs and had to be screaming in low gear to pull a slight grade, so I think the I6 is used just because it can produce so much more torque at lower RPMS = Efficiency. I kind of doubt the counter weight theory.

I have a blue chip pump, I know I paid more, but I did get piece of mind that Chip puts new parts and a new $600.00 computer on every pump. Alot of people might have gotten lucky with the $1000 pump, but reading Chips web site made me decide his pump is the way to go. I tell you one thing, he don't like how other vendors use his information, and at the same time discredit him. To me he is one of the early pioneers of the VP.

Triple ouch, I sure am glad I am able to work on my vehicles, I also like the peace of mind that I know the mechanic doing the job ;)

Too bad for you and your wife my friend. Things are bad all over, I consider myself lucky to have work. Hang in there.

That sounds correct.

In my Jeep Liberty, the resistor is accessible from inside the glove compartment. It is rectangular with wires plugged in it, only 2 small hex screws hold it in.

Five cans may have you way over charged, you can not lower the temp if the pressure is too high, and you are going to slug the hell out of your compressor. Take some of that out. How many ounces does the sticker under the hood call for? You should be running some where between 20 and 30 PSI on the low side. 58 PSI is given you like a 50 degree evaporator temp, way too high. That High side sounds too high as well, it may be causing it to short cycle on the high pressure cut out. http://www.watco.com.mx/HTCPressureTemperatureChart.pdf

You must mean the resistor? Does it only run on high? Good luck with you shot of freon, hope it gets you through the summer.

The UV dye, we use that on ACR systems, it is just another way to locate leaks, only problem is it is limited to your sight. My old favorite was the Halide torch, that thing never lied. Right now we are using Big Blue bubble soap, electronic leak detectors, ultrasonic leak detectors, and the dye and UV light, and some times you still can not find them.

Got rid of the pool. The kids lost interest, it was cold for 2 summers, and I had enough of taking care of it. It was the Ex wives idea to have it any ways, so no great loss. Of course she never went in it any ways Any ways I crank up the AC, or go out and work in the heat, being in ACR we are always working where it is hot.

We got it in our area after 2 cold years of "Global Warming" http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=42.020222739832505&lon=-74.08487892360426&site=aly&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

You are hurting my ears with all your SHOUTING!! Ask the others, my truck don't have an APPS.

Maybe you need to go get your self one of those spray on tans

I think Mike and Randy are fiddling with the settings again, I am sure it will be back in no time. You know Mike, he likes to tinker with everything

I hear with the Urea injection it eliminates a bunch of EPA junk from the engine. You never know, you may one day have a Cummins with Urea injection? ---------- Post added at 08:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ---------- I consider you lucky to have a B series, I wish my FL had the B series in it. It would have saved me alot of heartache. I see you even have an old Ford IDI? I owned a few of them as well, they were very trouble free, except for glow plugs.

Easy, turn a hand crank with a long lever, and a short lever, which one turns easier? Or compare the short stroke of a child's big wheel or tricycle to that of an adult bicycle. It is as simple as a lever. You know, that is a good theory, I will have to use that one on the next pro V8 diesel guy. They never have a come back to the Semi or heavy equipment using inline diesels, and they are applications that require alot of grunt.

Or you could say it lugs alot easier :lmao2:then you drop it down 2 more gears lower then the Cummins would need carrying the identical load.

I love my Cummins and my other inline diesels just as much as you do. It is good to look and see what the other side is up to as well. Ford built this engine, not Navistar, so it is not the 6.0. I wonder how that new Ford Tranny is going to hold up? I guess it is all speculation at this point?

Looks like Ford did their home work on this one, except they forgot to make it an inline diesel Looks like they made a new transmission and turbo charger while they were at it as well. It will appeal the quiet V8 diesel crowd. We will have to see how this new power train holds up in the real world? So far it looks impressive. http://www.fordvehicles.com/trucks/superduty/features/

Hell, you can move here if you want, I am sure we can turn you into a patriot. You would be alot more desirable to have around than the Mulahs that have been coming over by the boat load, only to want to blow us up. And I agree, my tractor is sexy too:thumbup2:

I think the numbers are low, what about all the people whose time ran out for unemployment?

Gotta love her, she is hard core:thumbup2:Is that your house in the distance?

So I got the Libby all back together and I am very pleased with it so far after the big 10 to 15 minute ride Well, I was covered in grease and tired, but I must say, the drive line feels alot firmer now. At 45 MPH I am running 1400 RPMS, and at 55 with out going any faster, I am running at 1600 RPMS. It has more of a truck feel to it now, because the engine is working at much lower RPMS. I was just wondering how low in RPMS it is safe to run this engine at, you have to factor in lower oil pressure and hammering the rod bearings, but I guess it should be OK, because it is in a very light load at 1400 RPM. I always try to keep my Cummins at 1600 RPM minimum. GDE had a very good write up for the TC change procedure, http://www.greendieselengineering.com/forum/posts/list/37.page#672 although I added a short cut, and had a set back. I skipped removing the fan blade to allow access to the flywheel bolt and turned the engine at the flywheel starter gear with a screwdriver. The set back was, the tab to the tranny dip stick that is bolted the to the upper bolt got stuck between the engine and tranny bell housing I did not know this until most of the bolts were snugged, in the future I would put the dip stick tube back in after the tranny is bolted back to the engine. I will give more updates after I drive the Jeep for a while. My transmission jack was a 2 1/2 ton floor jack with a 2' 2X8 fastened to it.

I used to use Cummins North-East with no problems. Now that I have a Fleetpride, I can get filters local.