rlane547

I agree with wild and free. Even with stock sticks I put in a shift kit and installed a an entry level single disc billet low stall torque converter. Also installed upgraded governor pressure sensor and solenoid. It made my truck a whole different animal when towing even with the very few mods that I have. And don't forget regular service and band adjustment on that tranny! With the 125 sticks I would buy a valve body instead of the shift kit.

You are very welcome. I know its a lot of money and time but you just have to go one step at a time. I started exactly where you are.

I wouldn't even attempt to argue that point. UOA is hands down the best indicator of engine condition there is. What I should of said is a "general indication" filter performance. It's just that where I'm from when you start talking about UOA's you might as well be talking about UFO's. Down here if you can roll coal then that's all that matters. Reliability, durability, mpg, and true performance seem to be at the very end of the list when they buy a diesel.

I don't know. Pavement queen, dirt queen, filter minder, no filter minder. I don't think too much about any of that. I do my regular service and that includes loosening one clamp, removing a hose, and inspecting my turbo. That gives me the best indicator of how my air filter is doing.

Reading your signature, I noticed I started out with basically the same truck that you have. I'm not saying that the air filter is not important because it is. But I would be more concerned about your fuel pressure due to the stock lift pump and your fuel filtration at this point. Low fuel pressure is an absolute killer on these trucks and with the quality of diesel fuel these days I don't have to tell you how important it is to use good fuel filters. I started just like you not very long ago as a newbie to Dodge. After a lot of questions and a lot of good information from these guys the first thing I did was make my fuel system right. Have you checked your fuel pressure with a mechanical guage at wide open throttle under load down the road? Thats the first place to start. Not trying to change the subject but the best air filter in the world is not going to save your injection pump. A stock rebuild is over 1,000 dollars and its a well known fact that the stock lift pump is the weakest link on this engine. Ask anyone on here. Just something to think about.

Now you are getting way technical. This is the same debate you see about oil. Sure there are cases where engines get dusted due to poor quality filters. But honestly if you use a quality filter of either design you probably will never tell the difference either way. How many engine failures would have been prevented by using a 92% efficient filter vs. a 90% efficient filter?

BHAF= Simple, durable, cost effective, readily available locally, and proven for years.

All I can tell you is I have a Fass Platinum 150 and haven't had any problems yet. Came with everything you need for installation. I was going to tell you to not buy the Platinum but go with the Titanium series because that's the only thing I would change. After looking at the Fass website I see the Fass Platinum is now discontinued and I can see why. For a few dollars more I could have had the Titanium which is a filter and water separator instead of having to custom build a bracket and buy a filter housing to install a 2 micron filter in place of the stock location. That was before I found this forum and a little info can go a long way. As for the blue hose, I read about the dry rot so I used split loom to cover all of mine. Either the loom will protect it or it will hold water and make it worse. So far so good, only time will tell. Eaton makes a nice durable biodiesel compatible fuel hose but its a little pricey. Just my two cents.

MnTom, I cant believe it. The shift kit was a very slight difference but adding the t/c changed it completely. We have a 400 mile trip pulling the travel this week. Can't wait to see how it does.

Thanks again everyone. Installed the converter today and everything went pretty smooth. It's a whole different animal to drive now!

Here you go installing a muffler, when after we talked I chopped mine off. Ha Ha! I'm glad I did it though. Whatever aftermarket muffler the previous owner put on must have been extremely restrictive. My egt's dropped about 50 degrees and my cool down time is way faster down to 200 degrees. I have to admit I like the look of your muffler. I may consider it when I'm ready to replace the exhaust. Right now I'm getting everything ready to install a new torque converter.

Thanks for all the tips. Looks like I'll be doing it Saturday and I'm going to print this thread and take it with me. Keep them coming.

Mopar filter ready to be picked up. Thanks.

Went with Revmax converter because they are local. Basic Stage 3 with 300rpm less than stock stall. Nothing major. Will order Mopar filter tomorrow.

Yeah I can't wait. Like a kid at Christmas.

Transmission and torque converter working fine. Transmission had been rebuilt shortly before I bought the truck. I installed the shift kit a few months back and its great. Just moving up to single disc billet converter for a little insurance since buying a new travel trailer. I've adjusted the bands and kept fluid changed regularly so far. I don't feel like the tranny needs any work right now. When I did the shift kit I installed a new governor pressure sensor and solenoid and temp sensor. Tranny runs normal temps with or without a load. Just wanted a little better converter that was low stall. I have already ordered a pump seal kit.

Getting ready to install new billet torque converter in the old 47re. Just wanting some tips on what else should be replaced while I have it out. Rear main, front pump seal kit? If anyone knows of a good brand pump seal kit let me know. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Also, what's the best filter?

I'm the same way. Getting ready to buy single disc billet converter and then 50hp sticks. I'm more into dependability and efficiency.

After a little research I turned up very little. Seems to be a common problem with no real fix other than replacing the column. I found a couple of posts on other forums where they were cutting pieces of radiator hose and making bushings but didn't seem to work out long. I decided to try something else. Since the actual bushing is foam I scraped out what was left and sprayed around the tube with that great stuff foam insulation from the hardware store. Too soon to tell if it is fixed but I will say it is at least 60% better. Time will tell.

I recently installed the rock solid steering bushing and it took the play out of my steering shaft but I still have a lot of play in the shifter tube part of the column. Does anyone know a fix for this other than a new column. Also does anyone have a parts breakdown of the column?

If you have to get into that tranny, do the shift kit, governor pressure sensor and solenoid upgrade. Will do you a world of good for not that much money. If you have to have a torque converter I think a single disc billet converter will work for what you have unless you are planning on some major mods. Also get a B&M drain plug and a temp gauge. Change your fluid as often as you can afford it and keep your bands adjusted. Use a good quality atf+4 and filter. A built 47re isn't cheap so do these things to keep what you have going.

When I bought my truck several months ago I hit everything with the Hotsy here at work. Considering all the work I've had to do to this thing the only leak I had was a loose power steering hose. I still keep a close eye on everything and have a vacuum pump kit under the seat for when that day comes. Its getting kind of dusty again so its about time to hit the Hotsy again before winter.

Hey Bryan when I did mine I didn't exactly go by the directions. I found it easier to remove the left front wheel and inner fender. Mine is a 2wd so I'm not sure how much more would be in the way on yours. I removed the intermediate shaft which turned out to be the hardest part because the slip joint was seized. I then went in from the top and cut the spring and keeper with a dremel. Directions say to put a c-clamp on it but I just let it fly. Then I pryed out the old bushing with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. I lightly sanded the shaft with a scotch brite pad to remove surface rust. I checked the fit of the bushing to see how tight it would be. On mine it was perfect. If it is too tight then the instructions say to sand the inner diameter of the bushing until the steering is where you want it. I installed mine through the fender well by making a slightly longer installer out of pvc pipe. Just tapped it lightly all the way in flush. I check the steering wheel one more time then installed the lock clip. Clip it on then take a pair of pliers and squeeze one more click. Don't forget to put a strap around your steering wheel to the brake pedal to keep it in place. You can move it slightly to check the tightness of the bushing but not much. Hope this helps.

I think you'll be happy with it. I'm going to get the steering box brace soon too. Let me know how everything turns out.