AH64ID

You missed my point. GVWR is nothing but a marketing limit on HD SRW trucks, across all 3 manufacturers. Look at the Ram 4x4 CC LWB GVWR's, there are several of them despite the fact they are all on the same frame/suspension/brakes/steering/etc... None of them are at a design limit. GVWR is also not a legal limit, but tires are. Take the badging away, take the GVWR away... and what is the difference between a 2500, a 3500 SRW, and a 3500 DRW?? Less than you think, especially in what counts. In short any SRW is limited by it's tires, that's about it. GVWR is not a good indicator of capability, it's an indicator of what truck was purchased. For years SRW trucks had a 9,900 GVWR only to stay under the 10,000 weigh station limits in many places. As soon as Ford (pretty sure they where first) jumped over 10K on a SRW everyone followed. Dodge didn't change a single part, except the sticker. The frame in my truck is rated to 12,200 by Dodge, with a max FAWR of 5200 and RAWR of 9,350. Those are closer to the real limits. Brakes are going to be the first structural limit, and why I personally use 12,200 as a max. It's only in the pickup world where FAWR+RAWR < GVWR, it's mostly marketing math. The only difference on my truck and a DRW is the main spring pack, rated at a mere 7% less, and the number of tires on the rear axle. The axles/frame/steering/brakes/etc are all the same. My 9,900 GVWR is not based on the vehicles design capabilities. The 9,000 GVWR on my dad's 06 2500, with all but 1 different part is not based on that 1 different part but the fact that a 2500 needs to be rated lower than a 3500 SRW. That 1 difference is a pair of upper overloads, rated at 1300 lb/in, that are not even in contact with the spring perches at the OEM RAWR of 6,200 lbs.. so they are nothing but useless added weight on a SRW with OEM tires. So.. GVWR is fairly meaningless on a SRW HD truck. On a DRW or a 1/2 ton, or other vehicle, it's fairly important. The GVWR generally tells you what the combination is rated for, just not with a HD SRW truck that shares most of it's parts with a higher rated DRW truck. Some people are not comfortable with this thou, they need to see the payload on the door sticker. These are the same people that will sell a 2500 for a 3500 SRW to gain GVWR when the 2500 is the same truck with very minor rear suspension differences... a rear suspension that is generally designed for more than it can carry on its tires. Only do what you are comfortable with. I have zero issues running my pickup in excess of GVWR, sometimes by 2,000lbs, but I know the design specs, I have upgraded my tires to match my load, and I am registered for the weight. I'm 100% legal, and 100% within design limits.

This is a good rule, but not on all vehicles. We probably don't need to make this a rv.net style discussion but GVWR is not very important on these HD trucks. FAWR is important, and RAWR is important (or tires if higher than RAWR and lower than DRW RAWR), and the combination of those will exceed all SRW GVWR's. The max GVWR for the DRW is 11,000 and that should be the max GVWR for the SRW with RAWR/tires permitting.

My setup has changed over the years from a empty bed and a 22' TT at 15K GCW to a pair of ATV's in the bed and a 30'TT at 19-20K GCW and my mileage has shifted down about 1 mpg. I was 10-12 with the 22' TT most the time and now I am 9-11 with the heavy setup. There just comes a point when wind resistance overcomes weight. I get slightly lower mileage with my hitch that I could. I run the 18" shank to aleviate all tailgate interference, and that added space between the truck and camper does decrease mileage. I have never tried a standard shank on this pickup, but when I switched from a standard shank to a long shank on my Toyota Tacoma with a 1200lb pop-up I lost ~1-1.5mpg's, better than 10%.. and that was a TINY popup. Your GVWR isn't 13,400... it's 8,800. The labels aren't there, but it looks GVWR/Engine/Trans/Gears/GCWR/SWB max tow/LWB max tow. Using your other numbers and correct GVWR your limits are 6,500/10,400 according to that page. My "limits" are similar, I have a higher GCWR and GVWR but also a higher GVW. I say "limits" over limits because GVWR is meaningless to me, and to any other SRW owner that really pay attention to the numbers. The design weight of my frame/steering/brakes/front axle is the same as a DRW, thou some numbers are different. My rear axle is the same unit. The only difference is minor with spring rates (think airbags) and tire capacity. I can load up to 12,200lbs on the truck in stock trim and only be overloaded on the rear tires, but with my 19.5's I can increase my RAWR from 6,200 to 9,000lbs which is more than I will ever need. So in reality I can hit 12,800 for 5er or bumper pull...but to be honest I wouldn't hesitate going over GCWR as long as I was within front axle, rear tire, and frame (12,200) limits. I towed this weekend at my OEM GCWR and there where zero issues, I didn't run hotter than normal or have any acceleration issues. GCWR is mostly based on acceleration and cooling capacity. My cooling system is the same as a 4.10 truck with a 23K GCWR (vs my 21K) and with my extra power accelerating and maintaining speed isn't an issue, even then I am not even within 10° of the max allowed coolant temp from Cummins. Okay Rant off... I just despise the way that OEM's rate their SRW vehicles. It appears that that is changing thou, a 2014 3500 SRW Ram is rated to what it should be based on components and they ditched the POS 17's for 18's on the higher RAWR trucks.

Yep, thou the stock gasket/bolts can take quite an increase before issues occur. I would be willing to bet that peak stock cylinder pressure on a 02HO is higher than a 06, both in stock trim.

It is very hard to get new bodies these days. Bosch only lists one body for the Dodge trucks, and they can be Bosch Remans or new.. just depends on what is in stock. If your supplier can get marine bodies some of them are new (QSB480) and some of them are possibly reman (QSB 440 and below)... All marine bodies use the 03-04 spray pattern, but can be fitted with the 04.5-07 nozzles. I have BBi's in my 05 (03-04 spray pattern and pistons), and we just put DDP 50's on new marine bodies in my dad's 06 last week. Inital thoughts between the two.. BBI's are quieter, and easier to make smoke free. Aside from that the DDP's seem to be doing very well and my dad is beyond impressed. I detuned his truck, UDC, to be back where he was with SW1 on the SJR (no want/need for more power). The reason I went with 50's over stock nozzles was to be able to drop the duration and use less timing, and a quicker faster burn. He pulled a empty 16' stock trailer from Boise to Pocatello last Friday with about 2K in the bed and at 75 the OH was telling him 16.x, and IIRC he said the tank ended up in the 13-14 range... Pretty damn good!! I went from Boise to Challis last Friday at 21K combined and got 9.9, which I think is good for mountain towing. So my 0.02, BBi's are the way to go if you can afford them and the extra power is wanted. If UDC where not an option I would have never gone BBi's, too much fuel with stock duration and and no tuning gives the proper timing with stock duration so I wouldn't have been as happy. DDP's are next. If you buy the complete injector from them it's going to be a new/reman Bosch (whatever Bosch has on the shelf) with their nozzles. Their nozzles are good quality. Steer clear of non-Bosch remans. The BMS stuff out of the box has the wrong spray pattern for an 04.5-07, but some shops will fix that (what my dad did) but if your buying a complete BMS setup it's not going to be the proper spray angle. Lots of people running the 03-04 nozzle with the 04.5-07 piston, but I am not sold on it yet.

The #1 injector line can make/transmit noise in that area so it could be that. My dad's 06 is getting injectors today. It started 2 years ago with a rough stumble/idle and white smoke. It always starts, but often it's ROUGH. A month or so ago the mileage started dropping and the injector rattle got louder, so now it's getting marine bodies and DDP 50's.

There are too many factors, especially on stock engines, to give an accurate number. A bone stock 04.5-07 can run 1450-1500° all day long, and is supposed to for emissions reasons. The timing is quite retarded on those motors, so even thou the EGT's are high the cylinder temps are lower. Throw some proper timing at it and the EGT's drop, but cylinder temps increase.

Seafoam is a bad idea for diesel fuel. Seafoam contains alcohol, so it will emulsify any water in your tank to the point it cannot be filtered out. Lots of things can cause rattle, but here is an OEM TSB on the subject. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2002/09-008-02.htm

Slow, steep winding roads at 18-20K GCW will put me at 900°-1100° depending on a host of factors. 6-8% grades at 55-65 runs 1050-1150° in 5th, and I will pull some hills in 6th and if they get much above 5%, or hot or high, I can hit 1250° but it's not common. Last time I hit 1250° in 6th I was at 19.5K, above 6500', on a 4-5% grade on a 85° day. The slower the road the lower the EGT's. With the cam and turbo I actually run less boost than the stock turbo, but a lot more airflow. I am running a Jacobs exhaust brake, that will run about 70-75psi of back pressure with the cam.. luckily I have the valve springs to hold it in the cylinder.

Remember I live in Idaho too. None of those are slow winding roads (little goose creek is the closest), exhibited by the ability to use 4th. If your in 4th your too fast for the roads where a 6 speed is a big difference. 4th on a 5 speed and 5th on a 6 speed are the same, as you know, so there won't be a difference. Tow up the old whitebird grade, 2 of the miles has 8 switchbacks and better than 6%, at 18K lbs GCW and you will see where the 3/4 of the 6 speed is nice over just the 3 of the 5 speed. Other steep/winding grades are the grade out of Lowman headed South 9 miles of 6-9% grades and several hairpin curves (did that one at 19.5K GCW in July), the Greer grade from ID-12 toward Weippe on ID-11 which is 7 miles of 6%-12% grades and VERY tight hairpin curves (Done it several times up and down at 18K+ GCW). I don't think you will find many people who would rather run a 5 speed for towing, gearing is king. The NV-4500 is a great transmission, the NV-5600 is just better

You aren't finding roads with enough curves :D

That surprises me. I looked back thru my logs and didn't see any where I was within GVWR with the TT. I am always within tire limits thou.

There is nothing wrong with towing in 6th on a NV-5600, just try to keep 2000 rpms or more on the big hills... Probably 5th at that point. Hey Michael, how often do you think you are actually within GVWR when loaded with wood or a TT?

That .02 in OD will make a difference thou... Yeah the beauty of the 6 speed is in the acceleration, and really tight mountain pass curve driving.

Hmm.. not sure I buy that too much. Then again I speak HPCR a lot better :-) Getting the pop tested and calibrated is a good thing to do, but if they are good before the swap they would be good after .

How do injector tips effect the pop pressure??

I'd like something in the 3.90 range.. Honestly I really like 3.73's and my 245/70R19.5's in 5th, and all the other gears could be a little lower. I am not sure I want 5th lower, as it's pretty aweseome at 45-65 when loaded. I guess that's why Dodge went with the low ratio's in the G56 AD. They where about 6% lower than a NV5600 in all gears but 5th, so it was the best of both 3.73 and 4.10 worlds. And there is where I throw in my usual rant about wanting a 7 speed with two OD's and .85:1 and a .68:1.

I honestly didn't know 3.73's where an option for those axles. Has to be aftermarket, 3.73's were not OEM until 2003 with the AAM axle.

Chain parts stores rarely sell higher quality parts than OEM and I don't think many will dispute that. The parts are often adequate, and generally priced better but not always. Typically places that sell parts better than OEM are custom companies, or smaller specialized companies. I have all but stopped buying repair parts at large chain stores as the quality is visually lacking.

I'm going to suggest a different route and say gear swap!!! If your already at 30psi and 1150° adding hp isn't going to do much but add heat and you don't have a lot of room left for more air or fuel. I am surprised you are pushing 1150° with stock fueling and 30 psi thou. You might be able to squeak a little more power out, but you won't run cooler. 4.10's will give you an additional 16% torque to the rear wheels. I haven't seen the pic's but I'll call BS on the 1500, the rear tires wouldn't hold the weight nor would the axle.. let alone the frame or suspension. Could it have been a 2500?? Same body panels.

The Cummins ones only has to last 2x as long for it to be better. It's not a PITA change, unless your hooked up and headed out to do something fun or a ways from home. I stick to OEM parts on things like that, they do generally work better and last longer.

ISSPRO has different length extensions, but they don't want you to make your own. They aren't a rob you blind kind of company so I would guess there is some truth to it.

Keep your Autometer in the 4-5-6 collector, put the TST in 1-2-3 and the Snow Max post turbo or in the long 1-2-3 collector.

I've got a few hair-off elk hides hiding in various closets around the house, not sure what to do with them yet... Our season doesn't start until next month.. too friggin hot for me right now anyhow.

I think that the difference has more to do with the turbine housing than anything, and I would expect a bigger drop with a tighter housing as the pressure decrease is greater. I run so little drive pressure that there isn't as much pressure drop across the turbine, and thus not as much of a temp drop from the expanding gasses. By the time you get the heat to the pre-probe the tuning is out of the equation, IMHO. It's hard to say thou. The QSB 480, Marine 480hp 5.9L, has a difference of 375° at rated rpm and hp. 480 @ 3400 and if memory serves it's a HX55 on that engine. The HX55 has a water cooled turbine housing thou, so I would expect a bigger drop.