AH64ID

I sure would like to go, but all the Dyno Day's seem to be at the time of year when I am using my truck for camping/hunting/etc..I have modified my tune a little and would like to see how it does, maybe this winter?

Simple, it's a 1/2 ton... Why the hell would put 600 ft/lbs in a 1/2 ton, the running gear and drivetrain would be 3/4 ton and mileage is lower with bigger running gear. It's already insane the tow ratings they give 1/2 tons, it's higher than 10-15 year old 3/4 tons. I cringe every time I see a ecoboost towing a 30' 5er, and it's way to common. How any company can tell a consumer it's safe to do that on P rated tired and 1/2 ton suspension is beyond me. It's a 1/2 ton, if you need a bigger truck then buy one. Don't buy a 1/2 ton to do a 1 ton's job becuase you like the ride to/from work. Okay, rant off.... Even thou the numbers are similar to an ecoboost the diesel will still outperform it when working, but will probably get it's azz handed to it when empty. The big benefit will be that the diesels fuel economy doesn't cut in half, or worse, when you hook up the smallest of trailers like it does on the ecoboost. This is a good step for Ram, and I think an appropriate power rating. It's more than just the numbers on paper, because if all you did was look at numbers the Hemi could hold better speeds up a grade than the Cummins could...

Welcome, where in the SW corner are you?

One word...STOCKThe stock filter will outperform anything you put in there under 450-500rwhp, and non-stock filters have the potential to trip a CEL. The revied 5.9 filter and 6.7 filter are nearly identical in flow/size, and I am pushing a little over 100rwhp over stock and moving a lot more air with a cam and better turbo and the stock filter minder doesn't budge and my UOA shows lower silicon than other filters I have tried (before the OEM 4" filter came out). It's just not worth a swap.

How is the new trailer working out?

03-04 has a better piston design than 04.5-7, but nothing to cry about. The 04.5-07 has a larger turbo and more OEM power (thou would you be keeping your twins?). In stock form the 03-04 will get better mileage than 04.5+. The only OEM certified auto's for an exhaust brake are 06+. There are aftermaket companies that make them work, but the thrust washer in the trans isn't designed for it. Check enigne hours vs miles for excessive idling. With the key on, motor off, and odo displayed press and hold the trip reset button until hours show up, approx 6 seconds. Blowby exits on the drivers side under the OEM fuel filter. The OEM LP is a good unit for 05+, the 03-04.5 are engine mounted and prone to fail. 03-04 can be a 235/460, 250/460, or 305/555 motor. 04.5-07 are all 325/610 (600 in 04.5). The early 03 auto's could be a 47RE or a 48RE, all 04+ are 48RE. Why an auto?

Gotcha, trucks are a little harder to drive in the city for sure but the lower cost to operate is nice (thou I don't know how efficient your jeep is).

Looks like fun! 6.6% average grade for 19.3 miles from Cascade. Where is the truck? I miss something?

It's only a 90% efficient f/w sep, I would pass on it.

It really hard to compare marine engine timing to truck timing. The prop demand curve doesn't match the hp curve, so you aren't using full fuel for a rpm until at or near rated rpm. A pickup may need full power at any rpm, if you work the truck, and that's where the advanced timing takes a toll on lower rpm use. Marine engines also run higher sustained rpms when making power, which is evidenced by the 20° if timing.

I wonder if gasser thermostats are rated full open? I couldn't even begin to guess what the max allowed temp would be. Odd that it doesn't swing, the Cummins thermostats are supposed to, it's normal. The Cummins thermostats are cracking temp, so a 180° should run 180° ±3° going down the road.

How low does that make it? Doesn't seem too low, thou it will have an effect at partial loads.

How low is your compression?

Timing on the VP is different thou, peak to peak yes the VP runs more, but it's not running 24° when your at 1500 rpms and 40% throttle trying to get a load moving. Neither of those turbo setups sound great for towing, the twins would run good once spooled but with a trailer in tow and 21.5° of timing on a P-pump I think they would be slow to spool. It's hard to say, there are a lot of variables. P-pumps have peaked torque curves, VP's and CR's have flat torque curves. It's all about timing. My current tune peaks at 20° of timing, but at 2000 rpms and WOT it's less than 12° and there is about 850 ft/lbs of torque being made there. Yes, I know the pilot and high pressure reduce ignition delay, but it's still not a lot of timing. For me to run 27° of timing on my truck I would have to really increase the fueling, and even then it would only be at high rpms.

You have a 180° thermostat right? Max temp is 212°, so I would say that if you can hit 215°, or even 210°, a fan is needed. Only 1 or 2 times have I come within 5° of my max allowed temp, 225°.

As good as it works for you without it, and how little I hear mine kick on 100%, I am not sure I would run without one. I have a feeling that it operates at less than 100% more than I think, and I just cannot hear it. I have plenty of roads that are steep and slow, and things just get hot under the hood and the fan has to help even if it's not at 100%.

21.5° is a bit much for anything but a race/DD motor, as you noticed it sucked for towing. 16° is closer to a better timing and should have ran really good from 2200-2500 rpms when towing. Too high of EGT's could have been turbo/injectors/etc.

I am surprised how well the cooling system works with very little fan operation. Even at +100 rwhp over stock and towing at 18K GCW it takes a HOT HOT day to get much action out of my fan, and most of that is based on IAT's (one of the ECM's logics) and A/C and not coolant temp. I rarely hear my fan on a grade, even with ECT's of 215°.

I forgot how you were setup without a fan and shroud, I bet that makes a big difference. I can get nearly 150° inside the box on a hot day (95°+) sitting at a stop light with a heat soaked engine bay from towing.

Like in sizing turbo's, you can only run as much fuel as the primary (in-tank in this case) can flow. The in-tank might not be able to supply the engine mounted pump enough fuel to suffice. I think the in-tank is capable of near 90 GPH when at 0 psi, but that would leave you with only 8 psi to the VP. I think the setup itself can starve the engine mounted pump if you are using your truck for towing and working.

Those numbers don't even come close to what I have seen doing the same thing (well to the outside of my OEM box). I don't recall the exact numbers, but I was seeing numbers closer to +100° on the outside of the airbox vs the inside.

The air at the front of my engine bay just outside the air box was upwards of 150° with manifold blankets, it's going to be a lot hotter than that at the location where the BHAF is on a 2nd gen without manifold blankets and a 1200° exhaust manifold, 200° is not going to be a stretch when towing up a grade. Make the grade steep on a hot day and at 35mph and I bet that number could come close to doubling. Consider the following. 4000 feet30 psi of boostAmbient temp of 80°Sealed Airbox turbo inlet temp 100°BHAF turbo inlet temp 200° (I would guess that is on the low side for a tow up a grade)70% compressor efficiencySealed compressor outlet temp 428°, plenum 150° BHAF compressor outlet temp 586°, plenum 181°As you noted the plenum temp is not all that different. That will be around 50° more EGT's for the BHAF than the sealed box. The biggest thing is compressor efficiency, more compressor rpms than is necessary.The other thing to consider is the intercooler is in front of the radiator, so now that you are pumping 158° hotter air into the IC, the heat rejection is warming the air to the radiator an additional 127° over the sealed box. That means either higher coolant temps, or more heat rejection to the engine bay, which increases the turbo inlet temp even more... and the cylce continues. There is a lot more to turbo inlet temps than just plenum temp.For people that run empty most the time then the BHAF may not have that much of a difference, but if you tow heavy I just don't see it paying off. At the very least get a exhaust manifold/turbine blanket.

Nice trailer!Are 3500# axles as big as you can get on it?

Sounds like too much timing for how you used it.

I don't beleive there are any delete kit's for the '13s yet, and the VGT noise shouldn't be audible thru all the crap in the exhaust. Are you sure it wasn't a deleted '10-'12?The VGT with no, or minimal, mufflering is noise with the exhaust brake on. There isn't a way around that.