AH64ID

My error is about 17% on average. It's weird for sure, and certainly doesn't go inline with how injectors and the OH operate. Unless DDP uses smaller nozzles for the 50hp application, and the power is all from atomization?

We use the same stuff in our RV that we do in our house, Costco brand. In 2 trailers and 6 seasons of camping with a TT I have yet to have a clog. The only thing I see clog peoples pipes up is either TOO much paper without a lot of water, and baby wipes. Use what's cheap, add a little treatment for the smell and enjoy camping.

I had LRC 14" tires on my 18CK, GVW 5,600, 205/75/14 Goodyear Marathon's rated for 1760 @ 50 psi. They worked great on lots of dirt roads. Over a period of 4 season and probably 30+ trips (only maybe 1 per year didn't see any gravel) I only had 2 flats. I am not sure a LRD tire would have alleviated the flats, based on the rocks that did the punctures. The GVWR was lower, but a LRC is a 6 ply "rated" tire that will meet the needs of the 3500lb axles I am guessing you have. They also hold 50 psi. I don't recall being able to find LRD tires for 14" rims.

Good deal, those are great mileage reports. I want a set of DDP 50's, I just haven't been able to justify them yet since I don't have any issues. Very interesting about your overhead accuracy, it should have gone the opposite way. The ECM has to use less duration to get the same amount of fuel, so it's thinks less is being burned and thus reports much better mileage with injectors. (Did something get messed up with the tire size setting when you went back to stock?)Smarty tuning up thru SW5 should have the same error as stock, at least based on what I know about Smarty tunes from little birdies here and there...As for mileage you will get the best mileage on SW5 defaults, except RP1. I wouldn't tow on this setting thou, too much fuel for the stock turbo with any decent trailer, grade, elevation, or combo.

Where about? There are places online you can look at the grade. A 40% grade is steeper than any street (implies paved) in the US that I can find, but a 40° slope is very different. Yeah, I have camped on some steep dirt and paved area's. The steepest pavement I have towed on, or that I have looked up, is in the 20% slope range. I have hit sections much steeper than that on dirt. This past weekend I was towing (17.5K GCW) up a section of switchbacks with an area of 20% +. - - - Updated - - - Bummer! - - - Updated - - - I just put hubs on my truck this spring and it's much nicer having a rig with 2 Lo again. I also want a full time xcase, but that's another thread.

A 40° road would be a 88% grade, and the steepest roads in the US are around 30%, or 13.5°. What road were you on?If you fan works then I would verify the radiator is clean, and possibly a clean/flush on it. Does the 47RE not lockup in 2nd if you put the selector in 2nd?

I agree. Yeah more of a "new trans" light than a caution. Its very hard to produce enough heat (coolant or EGT) at slow speeds in the engine to overload the cooling system, which means 1 of 3 things (or a combo). As already mentioned the trans is most likely the culprit, as is some radiator blockage, but the fan clutch could also be bad. Gauges are great, but I doubt they would have showed anything abnormal here. If the motor is stock I wouldn't overly worry about it, unless you want to. The BHAF is the only thing I see that could so anything negative at slow speeds, and even then that is a stretch.

I do prefer Warn over MM, but have Yukons on my truck now and they are easy to turn, very stout, fail to lock, and only protrude about 3/8". No complaints here.

Great info!I am doing too much mixed dirt road/dirt road towing/towing at 18K GCW/rural driving to get good numbers, but I think I am about 5% loaded and 10% unloaded on my mileage.

Gotcha, once you exceed 1200° you back down.

Okay so I stopped by a scale here at work and played around with some of the weights with and without the W/D setup. Overall I am happy where it sits. It tows excellent very smooth, stable, and no sway or porpoising. As with anything, I may be overlooking something. So input is appreciated. The weight's are very close to what I normally see on DOT scales. I didn't have the family, and I got out of the truck for all the weights so the FAW is about 300lbs lower than normal. The scale I used today also wasn't dead level approaching and leaving, so I would assume ±100 lbs is accurate. Like I said, very close to normal weight on the trailer and rear axle, just a little light upfront with an empty cab. Based on the size of the scale I was unable to check the RAW without the W/D (didn't have time to fully unhook and pull away), but can do the math on it. Front Axle (5,200lb rating, 6390lbs of tire rating)4520lbs with W/D hooked up4320lbs with W/D unhookedRear Axle (6,200lb OEM rating, 6390lbs of tire rating)6050lbs with W/D hooked up6200lbs with W/D unhooked (based on FAW and GVW)GVW10620 with W/D hooked up10520 with W/D unhookedTrailer Weight8230Tongue weight with a level trailer1250lbs (15%)Trailer Axle (2ea 5,200lbs axles with 5,080lbs of tire rating)7080 with W/D hooked up6980 with W/D unhookedThis is with my sig truck and TT, a small 4wheeler, firewood, and bikes in the bed and 7/8 of tank of fuel. Suspension highlights are Firestone Airbags at 30psi (1,500lbs of leveling assistance) and a 1" level kit (the main reason for more than a few psi in the bags). The truck and trailer are pretty much level with this setup. I use an Equal-I-Zer W/D hitch. I weighed the truck on the scale 3 weeks ago with an empty bed, full fuel, myself, and normal summer stuff in the tool box. Front Axle5020Rear Axle3360Here is the breakdown in terms of ratings. The first number is axle rating, the second is tire rating. This is with the W/D hooked up as that is normal. Front86%/71%Rear98%/95%Trailer68%/70%To me it looks like I am getting a decent amount of weight transferred with the W/D setup to the truck and trailer, and while my rear axle is close to the tire limit (only one I care about) I think it's loaded well.

You back down at 1200° correct? Good results for sure! - - - Updated - - - Just under 500' in 1.4 miles makes for an 6.7% grade average with small sections up to 9%. It's a good pull for sure, I am just able to do it in 5th at 55 on a hot summer day. For an HX35 I think you are setup pretty good.

It's not cheating. There probably aren't many rigs that don't use a correction factor. The ECM modulates the fuel thru the VP44, the injectors just move more than the ECM thinks (hence an increase in overhead mpg's). The scan gauge has to be calibrate anyhow, and the volume difference between stock and +50 injectors is going to be linear (at least close enough to use a fixed calibration).

Exactly as Michael said. Injectors add additional fuel without the ECM knowing about it.

The ribs in the hard plastic piece? That's the on that the Airaid MIT removes, and yes the best piece to replace.

I have searched and searched and cannot find it, but Holset said the directional vanes improve turbo efficiency up to 30%. Yes, that IS marketing but it will have some backup to it. I think they will make the most noticeable improvement at low boost/airflow. From a fluid dynamic standpoint I want them in there, they will improve the flow.

They make non HX35 mounted exhaust brakes, but it's more $$$.180hp over stock on a HX35 means too much having to watch the skinny pedal and pyro for me. I like being able to go WOT with a trailer up a 6% grade and not having EGT issues.

The PSM is more money, and removes the lower directional vanes which is counter productive IMHO.

Hopefully it's fixed!I didn't remove the baffles from my intake, I don't think it's worth it to just remove them. The part you can remove does nothing to hinder flow. I used an Airaid MIT, a much better way to improve flow to the turbo. There are also the directional vanes in the lower 90° elbow, you want to leave those there.

Lots of good info in this thread. The part number for the OEM 4" filter is 53034249AA. With a Home Depot CAI mod ($15) the OEM airbox and filter are good for at least 450 rwhp. With my 2.5 year old, 25K mile (plenty of dust) filter I barely move the filter minder with a 500 rwhp tune. The OEM exhaust is good for 450 rwhp as well, and the muffler is the most restrictive part of it. If you want a different sound that is a different story. Think about mileage driving, you are low on the fuel and trying to maximize it. In this mode the engine is moving very little air so your not pushing the intake or exhaust to anywhere near there limit, so a bigger intake/exhaust isn't going to do anything for you. Personally I think gutting the OEM intake tube is a waste of time. You cannot gut the part that creates turbulent air, so why bother. An Airaid MIT is cheap, effective, and the proper way to do it.

P2509-POWERDOWN DATA LOST ERRORP2503-CHARGING SYSTEM OUTPUT LOWP2502-CHARGING SYSTEM ERRORP2609-NO VOLTAGE DROP SEEN FROMINTAKE AIR HEATERSThe grid relay can fail on, but generally fail off. Don't worry about starting the truck without it, removing it is very common and Cummins rates the engine to start down to 10° without any aid (including grid heater). If it happens again with the link installed I would touch (carefully) the grid heater and see if it's hot. Or use your voltmeter and check for voltage. Another common problem is the wire that connects the 2 batteries can become loose and/or faulty. The ECM connects to the drivers battery and the alternator to the passenger battery. It's possible your connections were loose and removing and reinstalling the batteries fixed this issue. I would pull your newest code and see where you are at.

CJ-4 is low ash oil desinged for ULSD motors, it has some different properties than the CI-4 that was the best oil just prior to ULSD. CI-4 is getting harder to find, but I still run it. Disreguard the info in post #2 about your motor, the "analysis" does not match your report. Just because it's not sucking the filter minder down doesn't mean it's filtering properly. It could have a small tear in it, or just be a lousy filter. But based on your comments below I am not 100% convinced the filter is the culprit, I think it was your sampling method. I would still change the oil and air filter just to be sure. Many BHAF's are paper media, and I don't think paper filters should be run that long, even if they show no restriction. Oil Analyzers Inc. TBN is total base number, it's the oils ability to fight the acidity from combustion. When the TBN gets to 1/2 of the new number the oil is starting to get old, try not to run oil with a TBN of less than 2. The higher the TBN is new the longer the oil can last, not subject to contaminates. That is probably where your silicon came from, there is a lot of dirt on the bottom of an oil pan. That sample is not a good one. But I would still change the oil and start over, and get a way to draw oil installed. Absoloutly not, nothing other than silicon is even worth raising an eyebrow to.

They only do new injectors, so I cannot imagine there is an associated core. Good cores do sell online thou.

I have heard nothing but good things about these injectors (well except the price). From what I gather they are the set to buy if money is no object.

I guess I have the old software too, no boost just MAP.