AH64ID

Maybe that will get you figured out. Did the steering wheel or wheels get turned while the steering was not installed?

What is the track width difference on a 3rd vs 2nd gen? Is the steering box in a different spot based on frame width?It doesn't really matter if the pitman arm isn't centered as long as the steering box is in the middle of it turning radius, and steering wheel is straight.

Which side of the filter is the pressure transducer on? You are building 22.5K psi at 30-40% load? Like I said pressure and volume are directly related, if you have pressure you have volume, no pressure means no volume. Pressure is a byproduct of volume. Your pressure but not volume comment is confusing me, when are you able to see 22.5K psi?

Are you talking new new, or new to you?

From below, but the wheel needs to be able to move as it's easier than turning the tires when they are on the ground. When you pull foreword to a stop ignore the wheel position and make sure the truck is tracking straight. Then adjust the wheel to be straight. Make sure you move the pitman arm in the correct direction so it's centered still.

That's the one. Turn the key one click from off (then the wheel is unlocked and the ECM isn't "on"), and adjust it until the wheel is centered. You aren't going to be driving it much are you? It doesn't take too many miles out of toe to eat thru and destroy a pair of tires. Most places give you a 30 day guarantee on the alignment, so you could take it in and get it right and then put the track bar on and have it checked. All the track bar should effect is the steering wheel center anyhow.

The pitman arm should have an adjustment sleeve on it, it's #1 job is to center the wheel. The adjustment sleeve on the tie rod is for toe. The adjustment required to straighten a wheel is minimal, and just how it was setup. You are taking it to a shop to be aligned aren't you?

At least the wheel is easy to fix ;-)

Haha, yeah it doesn't quite drive like it did stock...No, there wasn't a TT in tow yesterday.

It looks like you went with the 08.5+ style, I am curious how you like it. I am sure you know, but be sure the alignment shops makes both outer TRE's parallel to the knuckle. The 08.5+ setup is prone to breaking if they aren't centered and parallel (unlike most steering setups).

We did about 130 miles yesterday, with a bunch of FS roads, and all I can say is WOW! Between the shocks and unlocked front end the truck handles much better on winding FS roads, and pretty much all around. Coming back yesterday we had about 12 miles of interstate at 65-70 and the load read 13-15% for most of it, between the warm weather, new UDC tune, and unlocked hubs the load is down 5-7% which is AWESOME in my book.

There isn't a whole lot to go wrong in the system, the ABS/BRAKE light means you have a loose or bad wheel sensor.. well that's the easiest fix and since cruise won't work I will guess that is the issue. If there is a speed mismatch the cruise things your spinning and won't engage.Are you sure there are 4? I thought it was a 3 channel system, but I could be wrong.

Michael, his post says 12-14 psi from the lift pump at all times.. makes me think he has a gauge?If the LP pressure is good and the rail pressure drops, then it's probably something with the CP3. Does it run like crap when the pressure drops?Pressure and volume are directly related, so if the volume isn't there then neither will the pressure. FCA is a good start, are you throwing any codes?What are you using to read all the pressures? Where is the LP pressure sender at, pre or post filters?

Agree, but that's how I read it.

Good discussion, but simply put HP does matter. As it has been said you have to factor in rpm, and even if torque stays the same as rpms increase so does hp. My stock motor is rated at 610 ft/lbs at 1600 rpms and at least 555 from 1400-2900. The torque curve on the OEM chart is flat, and shows 610 ft/lbs at 2200 rpms, but there will be 70 more hp than at 1600 rpms. Considering the same truck, weight, gearing, and trans gear one could easily pull hills at 2200 rpms that they could not pull at 1600 rpms. Torque is the same, but HP is VERY important to the ability to pull a hill. Torque gets the load moving, and hp keeps it moving. Likewise if you gear a 300hp honda 4cyl and a 300hp Cummins so both are turning the rated rpm they are both putting the same amount of power to the ground in terms of torque, and both could sustain the same load at that speed.

Or install a spin free kit :-)

I would guess that all trailers in ND must be equipped with brakes.

Are you doing anything to counteract the fan settings for the OEM thermostat?I don't see it being an issue is winter, but in the summer you may lose mileage from extra fan use.

It also has an error for Idaho's speed. There is only a speed limit if your over 26K lbs and 5 or more axles, otherwise the limit is the posted limit.

I only have about 40 miles empty on the setup so far, but its driving I normally do. I have noticed the engine load is slightly lower across the board when empty, as for towing I got some towing miles in but had a 30mph tail wind one day and a 30 mph headwind the next...

You will like the hubs/ball joints. I am still amazed at how much better the truck drives at slow speeds. It's easier to steer and has a crisp feel to it, and that's with original steering tie rod ends. I am going to pull my hubs apart this weekend and do the 500 mile check on them.

I think that says a lot.

They are obtainable thru Cummins, and from what I recall they are cheaper too.

The local pumps that sell B2 aren't always labeled. Not much point in adding 2 stroke to anything B2 and over, the lube is there.

It's the pinch for the mounting bolts, so you couldn't open the mouth enough to make it worth it.