AH64ID

I agree, you loose cooling capacity and don't gain anything.

http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-gauge/CMS-gen3gaugeinstall.htm

You can, I don't think Smarty can do it thou.

I don't have an auto, but I am 99% sure it's not an option.

Are those the OEM overloads?You have an isolator on one side, but not the other.

Glad your back on the road! The reason the canister was full, well my SWAG, is because the LP has seized and wouldn't flow any fuel. The CP3 can suck fuel, but if the LP wouldn't allow any flow the vacuum in the system would exceed the limit of the CP3, and when the CP3 quit sucking the vacuum would suck the fuel back into the canister. I bet if you had unplugged the LP, and cracked the lid the CP3 would have sucked all the fuel out of the canister and the truck would have run for a few minutes. As for a future LP setup, I would leave your module in the tank, and get a doorman to 3/8" just like you suggested. The run it to a FB1311 with a Baldwin BF1212 on it, then the Raptor, and then to the OE canister, and then to another FB1311 with a Donaldson P551313 on it, and finally to the CP3.

On a 04.5-07 you will need to run some tuning before adding injectors. The stock timing is so whacked and emissions based that injectors will make the already screaming hot EGT's run hotter, which won't really hurt the pistons so much as the turbo/manifold. The different really depends on your power goals. The Jr is good for about +100 rwhp, and the Sr is a lot more. There are a few options with the Sr you don't get with the Jr, such as rail pressure and WG on/off. Neither of those are huge for me, I suggest sticking with stock rail pressure anyhow. The WG is off on the Jr, so not a big issue. It comes down to power goals, >450 rwhp get a Sr, 450 or less get a Jr. That's all pre-injector power. 400-450 rwhp seems to be the reliability limit when it comes to oil cooling/coolant capacity, drive train (especially when loaded) and about 400 rwhp is the limit of the stock turbo if you ever see any elevation while loaded. I will add that my "limit" is a lot more conservative than some, but I don't want my stuff to break down on me.

3rd gen's have them, and I wonder if you could adapt those to work?I have to have nearly 3.5K in my bed to hit them static, and not sure when I hit them while driving as I don't feel it.

The reason an engine brake isn't made is due to the size of the valve train, there just isn't room. An exhaust brake works great, and I personally wouldn't feel safe towing without one now that I have towed with one.

$35 at Geno's for a Gates. Not sure on a Cummins.

Gotcha. I am thinking about doing my water pump at 100K, just for preventative measures.

IIRC there are only 2 different thickness of head gaskets, but many different washer thickness options.

Don't forget that if you have the block/head decked you need to know exactly how much so you can adjust the washers under the injectors.

Great write-up. I have a couple things to add. Based on the size of this cooling system, and the amount the drains from the radiator you won't get a complete flush by just draining the radiator. Only about 2/3 of the coolant drains when you open the bottom of the radiator. Based on the cost of G05, I would do a full flush and be done with it for another 150K, or 5 years. If you had recently done a flush then this works perfect. Here is a write-up I did on a full flush. It takes about 20 gallons of distilled and 4 gallons of G05. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

Only 3 fittings on these trucks, and it seems that most people can't even find the one on the driveshaft.

I get a pyro and call it good. I have never been able to fully justify the cost of a timer.

They are easier to read in the demo software, since you can rotate them. But what the graph shows, timing for example, is the amount of timing BTDC in relationship to rpms and load. So on the stock timing map you can see that timing doesn't increase with rpms/load across the board. There are some very retarded points in the middle of the map where drivers spend a lot of time. In general terms what you want to see is timing increase with load/rpms so that your peak pressure is at about the same point. So as you add fuel you have to inject sooner, and as you increase piston speed you have to inject sooner.

Where you guys at?

Unless the mini maxx disables the feature, the EVIC will tell the driver is the air filter is getting plugged. So did he ignore it? Or was the pop something else?How heavy was he towing, and on what setting?I have 18K miles on my OEM 4" filter and drive in a bit of dust, even at 100+ rwhp over stock it still doesn't budge the filter minder on a WOT run up thru 3000 rpms (just dyno'd last week).

The downpipe will bolt up, and you can buy a plug from places like ATS, or just leave the solenoid installed and unplugged. They allow air thru when not powered. You will need to adjust the WG, as they open about 22-24 psig. The turbine is the same as your HE341, but the compressor is bigger (and about as big as you can go without severely unbalanced flow).

The issue with a post-turbo probe is the variance from a pre-turbo probe varies. It may be 0° at idle (cooled down), or 400° towing, and anywhere in-between depending on exhaust flow and workload. So the 700° you saw cruising may have been 750-800° pre-turbo and not bad, but the 1000° could have been anywhere from 1250-1400° and could be bad.

Between the turbo and block. There is a hose that joins two hard coolant lines on the heater core return.

It should handle it no problem. I run 3 filters on my stock in-tank pump. Look into the Donaldson P551313, it's a slightly better filter for the same application.

06's are prone to leaking at the hose behind the turbo. It could follow the hose to the front of the motor, I would check that too.