AH64ID

I never shut my stock turbo down above 300°, and 250° was preferred. It would take no time at all to get below 300°, 5 minutes of idling, even in the summer, would get me to 225-275°.Now with my water cooled turbo I can shut it down a bit warmer, but still prefer 300°. The exhaust manifold blankets make it much harder to get to 225-250°, and I run a little more retarded timing than I used to at idle, which adds to EGT's. But 375° after 5 minutes (assume pre-turbo) seems high.

I had an unexpected chance to dyno today. Last time I dyno'd was in 08 with the JR on SW3, stock turbo, and stock cam. The new graph is much smoother! This is smoothing on zero. The below numbers are uncorrected, the corrected numbers are 414/850. I am impressed how flat the torque curve is, and how consistent the numbers were on runs 2 and 3. Run #1 was PoD on 70, I was curious how it effected WOT power, and it's pretty obvious. Run #2 was PoD on 85, which is were I run normally and my gauges told me it was the same power as PoD99, which I was able to verify. The throttle and power are smoother on PoD85 when towing, and the smoke is also down a little (not that it really smokes anyhow). My previous dyno was 387/712 (437/808), so I am down a few hp but up quite a bit of torque. For how I use the truck this is just fine, and I won't be looking for that lost hp. My timing is pretty tame, peak about 20°. I am sure that I could get more power from timing, but I do plenty of towing with the truck and want to be on the safe side. Smoothing 0, Uncorrected Smoothing 2, Corrected

It could be anything from no power, knocking, screaming EGTs (depending on what one was bent), or any combination.

You have to delete all diesel common sence about EGT's when looking at gauges on anything stock from 04.5+. If you can't program your brain for that I would get a Smarty Jr, set it on SW1 and drive it like you would your 2nd gen, EGT wise.

03's did have kitties, if they were CA edition trucks. 49 state trucks did not. Take a peak under it and see what's there. If there are 2 bulges in the exhaust you have a kitty, one bulge and no kitty.

Overspeed comes to mind. Like grabbing 2nd instead of 4th for deceleration at 45 mph. I don't have the specs on the 12V, but the 24V ISB is rated at 4200 rpms for 15 seconds.. so it takes a decent overspeed.

Your 05 will run a LOT hotter than your 01, up to 1450° when pulling grades. The reason for that is the timing profile for emissions, this is also the reason for the lower mileage. Retarded timing makes less power, more exhaust heat, and lower emissions.

A 2008 is a 3rd gen, 4th gen is 2010+ as has been previously stated. The 2008's are a mixed bag. If they were kept up to date on dealer flashes they are generally trouble free. Injectors are not usually the issue on 6.7's, it's the turbo and then really only with early flashes or LOTS of city/empty miles on short trips. The fuel filter on the 6.7 is a great OEM filter, which is 5um absolute. The injectors are also of a much stronger design, and the rail pressure is lower on average (thou higher at high loads) than a 5.9. If you want to delete than a 6.7 is a great motor, even in 100% stock trim it's not bad.. just lower economy, and a dirty intake.

Why waste your time with a rock catcher, put a real filter there and get something out of it.

That soot level is nothing to worry about. At 8K miles mine is about 0.6% on a good sample, and that's with a bypass.Of course my motor seems to put more soot into the oil than most, but that's life sometimes.

The Glacier cost's more due to the heater, which isn't cheap. This is the better Glacier and well worth the extra cash if you want to ditch the OEM setup. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK79852-BLKH Personally I would go with the Glacier, it's a much better setup with better f/w separation. If you do install the Vulcan I would not remove or bypass the OEM setup, as the OEM setup has better f/w separation than the P558000.

I tried to approach it from the same "matched parts" aspect that guys who build 1000hp motors do. It's probably overkill for a mere 400 rwhp, but I sure do like the way it pulls.

Racor's are great filters and when I change lift pump I may run one, but I will move it to be more protected.

The baldwin parts I mentioned are quite cheap, and effective. If you want a Racor part number I can look one up tomorrow. But personally I wouldn't want a plastic filter cap under the truck.

I am, it's a great setup. I would love to put a GT4094R under it, but I am not sure the reward would be worth the cost.

I pulled the same hill in post #10 this weekend. I looked at the grade on the updated version of the software that I did a screen shot of, and there are several 10% grade sections. This trip it was 104° at the bottom and 99° at the top, with 102° appearing on the temp gauge the most. GCW was 17,300 lbs, or about 2,000 lbs heavier than last year. Intake air temps got up to about 132°, with 117° pre-turbo. EGT's hit 1225° in one corner for about 3 seconds, but the rest of the time 1200° is the most I saw. Coolant got up to 217°. Boost was about 24-25 peak, drive never broke 20. Load was up to 79% in some stretches. I did the bottom half at 55 mph, 2250 rpms, and the top half at 60 mph, 2450 rpms. I am running a different tune this year, and think I have a hair more timing that I did last year. All in all for a 100°+ day at nearly 18K lbs I am quite happy with the performance.

I would get a Baldwin FB1311 filter base and put a BF1212 in front of the pump. It will separate water better and keep your pump from getting debris damage.

I have an OEM - Jake in mine still, 67K miles on it and I keep the OEM non-Jake as a emergency spare.

I'm in a 3rd gen so my numbers are a little different, but those numbers sound normal. What's your peak EGT/Boost?

I don't have the slope on my camper, but it starts pretty high. It's amazing what a little wind resistance will do - - - Updated - - -

I tow a bill board as well, but gravity doesn't care in the least! How big is your trailer?

Yeah I'll say, looks like a few small stretches at 13% the last mile or so, with 6% being as flat as it gets.

Looking at the elevation profile it seems the 16% portion is a 1/4 mile stretch just off the highway, with sections that hold 12% up thru about 4 miles up. That's a good way to test the brakes!

Any update?

Looking forward to the feedback. Did you get the new "shorty" hubs that were just released?I also emailed spyntech and got told they can be had with Warn hubs for $100 more. Not sure they are needed or warranted, but was part of a previous conversation.