AH64ID

Yeah I have heard that, which is probably why there is such a smoke/mileage variance on stock trucks.

You can always adapt, but there is a matter for $$ and room. The HX40 style downpipe uses a v-band clamp, where the OEM uses a bolt on flange. The HX40 doesn't need the high flow elbow becuase it's 4" from the turbine flange. The easiest way to do it differently would be a turbine housing, but again $$.. if it's even available. If your dead set on the OE style elbow/exhaust then look into a different turbo..Personally I like the Garrett Power Max Stage 2's as a similar setup to a PS 62.

Why would you use a static advance when you have a Smarty with dynamic advance?Timing is one of the best things about the Smarty.

If it weren't for the possible winter traction issues I would be on 19.5's already, and I don't need them for the weight, I just can't stand how poor modern tires wear (I know it has nothing to do with my 800+ ft/lbs to the ground, and towing on dirt roads ). I think the Rickson's are a pretty good setup, but nothing has the proper offset which is annoying. I think 19.5 SRW's look good, but 22.5's are

Be careful with a tone ring mod and Smarty timing, it would be easy to have too much timing with that setup. A 6" isn't the best exhaust size for anything but sound, so if your looking for the best power/economy you may want to go back to 4" for less than about 700 rwhp.. unless you did it for sound. --- Update to the previous post... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1986-Home-Deopt-CAI-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

If you want to use the banks elbow and exhaust you will need to get a different turbo, one that uses the OEM exhaust style, but the HX40 style downpipe is a very high flowing setup.

I have started at +20° with just a slight complaint from the motor.If my IAT's are above 66° the grid's wont even fire until the motor is running.

I noticed that Garrett re-did their website and the hp rating on my turbo has changed to 510, but that's flywheel hp with the standard 15% loss that's about 435 rwhp, which is pretty close to where I am and I would say that's very accurate. I can just touch 1200° WOT on a 80°+ day, and below that its 1150-1175° when empty and towing I can touch 1300° at 2K rpms in OD up a 6% grade at 7K feet on a 75° day at 17K GCW, near WOT..

Correct! Ether is pretty flammable.. I like to joke, no spark, no compression, no oxygen.. just BOOM!All the old engines that used it didn't have glow plugs or grid heaters. If I did have to use it I would be disconnecting the grid heater (probably pull the relay, as it's the easiest) and then inject the ether thru one of the 1/4" NPT ports on my intake horn. This is one of those "have it and never need it, vs need it and not have it" things! Ether is pretty hard on rings, cylinder walls and probably why engine mfgrs went to electric starting aids. While I am not willing to test it at -20°, I am curious how well these motors would start without a grid heater or chemical aide. My dad's old 3406 didn't have any aids and started as soon as you pushed the start button, and it has lower compression than our ISB's.

For years I have been thinking I should have a can of ether in the truck just because. I have never had a starting issue, but spend a lot of time off the beaten path in the truck. I had never done it, and was talking to my dad about it (he has an 06) and he told me a story from back in the late 80's. He had a '84 6.2 burb, and they were 70 miles from pavement hunting it the glow plugs went out, wouldn't start. He towed it behind another rig on 70 miles of forest service roads to town, one small shot of ether and he was up and running. He was so pissed that he has always had a can of ether in his diesel trucks, and has never needed it again..Well, for $2.99 I couldn't argue with him and bought my first can. Hopefully it never needs to be used.

I have a friend with a 2011 6.7. He put a AFE intake on it and was throwing codes for excessive flow at the MAF. AFE sent him an pre-filter sock and the codes went away, he also said he lost a lot of low end performance.. Not sure I subscribe to the outerwear as a constant thing, I'd rather spec a proper filter and change the filter a little more often, but have the outerwear (pantyhose) in the truck if you got into a smoke/etc situation. I will probably go throw one in the truck's tool box just for that reason.

I pulled my air filter out yesterday to see how much room I have for a winter opening in the box. I think I can fit a 2" deck plate pretty easily, and really I think that's all I want. With the winter front on my IAT's are about +20°-40° over where they are without it so I am already going in the right direction. I don't want to be opening and closing this thing based no IAT's getting too hot. I know 2nd gen's see over 100° pretty easily, but unless its 90°+ out or I am pulling a grade in 80°+ weather I don't see it.. So I don't want to be getting much over 110-120° with this mod.

There is no reason to just replace it at an interval. Used filters are more efficient than new filters and I have 2 separate gauges that tell me the restriction, one digital and one filter minder. A .2psia drop is nothing considering the amount of air I am moving on my 400 rwhp tune thru a modified stock box. So far mine is good, I think the 3rd gen's are a little more robust as the cover is a PITA to get seated because the tolerance is so tight and the seal is quite thick.

I presume you mean highest road? We can get to about 9,100 at the end of the road where we hunt elk, but I have never noticed a fuel psi drop. Just talking about readings it should go up as the atmospheric pressure is lower and the gauge (liquid with isolator) will have more pressure.

Pulled my air filter out today to look at adding a winter air inlet and WOW! It looks like it would severely hinder flow, but nope. On several WOT runs in 5th gear I am not sucking the filter minder down and the SGII only shows a .2psia drop at the intake. That's a quality filter, considering how much more air than stock I am moving. The filter has about 8,500 miles on it. UOA is coming in a month or so (7,500 miles) so we shall see if the silicon is where it was with the lower flowing Amsoil.

http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT36043.pdf

I still think the Donaldson ELF7349 is the filter to run, its got nearly the same 5um ratings, but is 100% full flow, but if you want to run a venturi the Fleetguard is better.

Based on the ratings I would recommend the LF9028.

Pulling that HE351CW off and putting my GT3782R on wasn't a big deal...

No they weren't swings below the operating temp. I was seeing hotter running temps, and slower to open. It seemed like the spring was slow to react, and that I wasn't able to go full open. The excessive size of our cooling systems means that the thermostat's very rarely go full open (Mine doesn't go full open 10 times a year), so they develop wear spots and the springs fatigue easier than on other vehicles. This is also why I feel it's important to only run a Cummins stat (I bought mine directly from Cummins NW). I think a pair of thermostats would really increase thermostat life (Say a small one that cracks at 190, full open at 195 and a big one that cracks at 200 and full open at 205). You could also really improve the flow thru the block if you changed placement. But I don't think the cost benefit is there.

I saw a HUGE difference when I changed my OEM thermostat at 53K miles, but that was on the SGII not the OEM gauge.

Wow, that's the turbo install from !!Hope it all goes smooth now.

You would save $$ to run a better coolant and better thermostat!

Mike seems to have had good luck with NAPA, but I have read plenty of horror stories about non-Cummins stats. The stat's in these trucks do swing when first opening, but eventually will stabilize if the load is stable. If the load is changing the coolant will still swing. My 190° stat opens at 190° ± 3° and goes full open at 207°. Normal cruise is 193°, normal towing is 193°-197°, peak (only 3-5 times per towing season) will get to 213°-215°. As soon as I stop its 186°-188°, and after a while if it's really cold it drops to 180° and stays there with the winter front, exhaust brake, and fast idle.