AH64ID

Yes that is where it is. Did you shim it out?

I beleive its the valve located on the side of the oil filter housing. T

I like the port above the ECM, and yes a 0-100 psi gauge. --- Update to the previous post... Alright I found ISX's ESN... It says this. Regulating Valve Opening Pressure 449 kPa [65 psi] The specs were the same for a 1992 Engine.

I just looked up the specs from Cummins... This is from a 3rd gen and a 4th gen..[TABLE=class: box][TR][TD]Oil-regulating valve-opening pressure range[/TD][TD]448 kPa [65 psi] to 517 kPa [75 psi][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Oil filter differential pressure to open bypass[/TD][TD]345 kPa [50 psi][/TD][/TR][/TABLE]This is from a 2nd gen. Regulated Pressure414 kPa [60 psi]Anyone have a serial number from a 1st get?

So far we haven't listed any info from a 12V motor, just 98.5+ motors, the 12V may have a higher cold oil relief valve, or yours isn't working properly. They can't divert all the oil back to the sump so seeing pressure above the set point isn't uncommon, I can see about 10 psi above mine with very cold oil.

The cold oil relief and oil filter bypass valves are separate valves, thou they can both operate at the same time. The cold oil relief valve limits the max pressure of the system, this keeps seals from blowing out from excessive pressure caused by a cold motor/oil. 2nd gens are set at 65 psig and 3rd gens are set at 75 psig. The filter bypass valve keeps oil flowing to the motor in the event of a plugged filter. Very cold oil can also cause this to open by creating the 50 psid due to poor flow properties.

The 3rd gen's may be slightly different, as I know the cold oil releif valve is set at 75.. ButWarm idle 20-22, 50 psi at 1500 rpms, cruise 55-63 depending on coolant/oil temp. Long hard grades can drop oil psi from 57 to 50. Cold idle varies up to 30-40, and I have never seen over 85 psi. I do measure oil psi on the drivers side of the block above the ECM thou, I think it's a more accurate indication of pressure in the block.I also run 2-3 psi higher now that I have a BB turbo that uses less oil than a journal bearing.

If you making oil its most likely from a failing injector. I would be careful running at a high load with fuel in your oil.

I would check all your boots and connections. It's an 04.5 so it shouldn't have a plastic end-tanked intercooler, but take a peek to be 100% sure. To build your own tester you need to put a plug on the turbo intake that has a schrader valve in it so you can pressurize the system. Then get out the windex and find the leak.

The multiple events do lower cylinder pressure and temp, which decreases emissions. A properly timed pilot and main event can make more power on less fuel than a single event, but the 3rd event just isn't efficient and burns a bit more fuel per hp.

I don't think Marco's testing ever left the dyno, at least not from what I was told... But that was a few years ago, and now there is a new drawing board (and finally some good competition). The power produced by the 3rd event is very inefficient based on the supreme retardation of the timing.

The 3rd event doesn't happen all the time, but enough that EFIlive tuned trucks are seeing about 3mpg increase when it's deleted!It's mostly emissions, with some power.. just deleting it will result in a loss of power, you have to up the main event duration to get that power back.

Hopefully not for long! EFI already has the ability to take away the 3rd event on the 06-07, and rumor is Marco is madly working it for 04.5-07.

The DMF was designed to smooth out the clutch engagement and keep the hard NVH from the motor from damaging the aluminum case on the G56. it's a horrible design, yet is still in use. Glad it's working, I would have guessed it fubar'd the DMF as well, but maybe it just got it hot and grabby.

Emissions, emissions, emissions..The cam is a debate. I have heard from several knowledgeable cam companies that they have always been the same. I have heard other say they changed in the early 04 trucks. There is only one cam offered from Dodge now. The 03-04's are easier on fuel, but 20 when driving aggressive still sounds too good to be true.

Is it getting 20 on the overhead or on the calculator?Early 04 or 04.5?The 03-04's are better on fuel, the pistons and tuning are different. Being an 04 the cam should be the same.

I found the flow info in a Donaldson .pdf, just no filtration data. One could call them for ratings and dust holding capacity. For the OEM filter in my 3rd gen its all printed on the side.

Exactly why I am running cheap OEM takeoffs for summer driving and saving my good tires for winter. This way I will go 3-4 years between tire purchases. No more buying tires based on a warranty, I'll buy tires that meet my needs.

Since I kinda have a thing for filter specs I decided to look the BHAF up. Not too bad! 8" of H20 gets about 680 CFM, where my OEM filter gets 675 CFM at 10" H20 and supports 400 rwhp without touching the filter minder.

My first set of tires were Toyo A/T's in 285/70/17, they were not cheap but came with a 50K mile warranty so I went for it. They start at 17/32nds of tread. At 15K miles I was down to 10/32nds, 25K miles 7 32nds and by 30K I was under 5/32nds. At about 25K they were no longer good winter tires. I talked to schwab, they can't do anything until they are legally bald, 2/32. Well when I pulled them off at just over 41K miles on them they had been at 3/32nds for over 7K miles. I was able to get $50 back on one of them, but based on the wear rate the last 10K miles I would have made 50K miles without getting down to 2/32nds. Mileage warranties are a complete scam, the tires burn off quickly to 4-5/32nds and then wear like concrete. I also ran those tires when I was only towing about 20% of the time, and had lots of highway trips on them.

Then I would run the Con OFE.

I like the Michelin's LTX A/S as a summer tire. They are about the worst tire I have ever ran in the winter thou, short of a bias ply super swamper. They are much harder than any other tire I have ran, but are not wearing any better. I would like them to last for a few miles, but like I said 25K is what they are looking like they will last if the current wear rate keeps up.I do like the fuel economy, quiet and smooth ride they provide in the summer thou!Yeah, not arguing either, just proving my experiences. I would guess of the 6800 miles I put on the tires this summer 500 or so were gravel/dirt and 90% of those had the TT hooked up.

Wait, are you stock or running a Mini Max?

With a SMF conversion on a G56 you need new hydraulics, the G56 hydro's are weaker than NV5600 hydro's.I see you are stock, if you plan to stay stock I would look at the Con O, little smoother clutch and still more holding than stock, even +50hp.

I think its the towing of 5-6K lbs on dirt roads that does it. And around here there are no flat dirt roads, so climbing a 6% grade, or more, with a trailer takes some tq, and the dirt/gravel just eats the tires. I even use 4wd almost all of the time to keep the rear tires form skipping, hopping, and spinning. At highways speeds my trailer tows much heavier than it is from the huge frontal area, that means more tire wear. I have towed 15K lb trailers that pull easier than my 6K lb TT.