AH64ID

I would say you have a small exhaust leak then.

Yup, especially compared to this set of rotors! http://www.idahodieselpower.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=252&stc=1&d=1240982777

Interesting, normally I hear the opposite where guys will get better after a hard tow since they clean the carbon off everything.

Haze at idle generally means poor combustion, poor injection, or improper timing. More timing means lower EGT's, less timing means more EGT's. What is your boost/EGT at WOT?

Flushing is fine if the fluid isn't burnt. Most flushing machines only use the pump in the trans so no more pressure/flow than driving down the road. The only time a flush can "damage" a trans is when the fluid/trans are already cooked, the new fluid is too much and is the straw the breaks the camels back, but the damage is already there. I show a drain and fill as 4.1 quarts and a total capacity of 17 qts.

Looks good, but you need to ditch that f/w sep ASAP, your overall filtration is worse than stock right now. Put a BF1275 on there as soon as you can.

Saw those before... wanna bet the seats were a little stained after?

Your boost is in the stock range. You can safely run up to about 30 psi on your stock turbo. It takes an adjustable boost elbow and a little tinkering to get it to run the boost up to 30. It will let you run a little cooler, or a little more fuel. You do sound like your getting plenty of air, but it's nice to know you can go higher.

The CR cam is nothing special, short exhaust duration and advanced exhaust lobe make for a poor flowing exhaust!It's interesting what you measured thou!

I don't have a pic with the rockers on, but look how much further it looks from my pushrod to my exhaust bridge than on your motor. And how much closer my intake valve is!

Ah yes, talking apples vs oranges!The exhaust rocker arms are longer than intake rocker arms so it stands to reason they will equal out even with the difference in cam lift.

Gotcha... I didn't see where you said that and thought you were only checking it on the compression/power stroke. Stock lift on the intake side on your 97 is only .235. While you may notice differences in the bottom end the once spooled power is probably too close to tell a difference on. I am not saying that there is no difference, but you have to realize it's very small. These motors rely on boost not lift/duration for most of their air, at least where valve lash is an issue. The min setting is for preventing burnt valves and the max setting is where power starts to be really effected. You can look at this page and see where valve clearance becomes an issue. http://www.coltcams.com/html/Cummins_5_9_camshafts/index.cfm

Sorry if I missed it, but go 180* out from where you measured and see when the contact!Valve contact doesn't occur on the compression to powerstoke (as valves are set) it happens on the exhaust to intake stroke. The reason you don't see much, if any, difference on valve lash on a stock or nearly stock motor is the design of the cam/tappet. The tappets are HUGE and give the valve a VERY steep opening rate, so .001 isn't going to manifest with any real measurable gain in flow.

Before you even open the box I would take a peek at your a/c unit and check the model number/ BTU output. With those numbers I bet you can find amp draw.

I've been to a few of those sites for group outings.. yeah they like reservations.. but EVERY one of the camp hosts were pricks.. I'm not totally looking thru blinders, most of them were pricks as we got out of the trucks and hadn't even had a chance to get in trouble yet.

Where did you try to go?I have been out 7 times this year and have yet to stay in a reservation or pay campground.. 2 times we were in a primitive site, but early in the year before there were other campers.

Sounds like a stock 05 to be honest. Mine would hit 1000 easily climbing hills, 800-1000 was normal for daily driving. EGT's should hit 1300-1450° WOT depending on load, and boost will spike to 32 and stabilize between 28-32 based on load.

It's pretty much a work meter, more boost and your motor is doing more work... But really its not as important as some of the others, boost is fun to watch on a forced induction motor. Yes you can have too much, you don't want to push the 6.7 past 35-38 on the stock turbo/exhaust setup for fear of head-gasket issues caused by excessive back-pressure and limited flow. Boost is probably much more important on a 6.7 with a mild tune than rail pressure will ever be. Boost gauges are cheap, run one.

You have an AAM 11.5" rear axle, AAM 9.25" front axle, and a NP271 (man) xcase or NP273 (auto) xcase. Rear: 4.25 qts with LSD, 4.5 w/outFront: 2.4 qtsXcase: 2.1 qtsDiffs use synthetic 75w-90Xcase uses ATFI used Amsoil SVG in my diffs and Amsoil ATF in my xcase.

Depending on the a/c unit installed on your TT that generator will not run it. Unless you have a HE version or 9K BTU version, both of which are not OEM installed on any TT I have ever seen. For a 13.5K BTU a/c with a good hard start cap you need a min of 2400 max and 2000 running. 1400w of continuous power is only 11 amps. A 13.5K BTU a/c can draw over 15 amps, not to mention the draw from the converter and any other incidentals. Lastly, I highly recommend the inverter units, cleaner power and MUCH quieter...

But then its really hard to monitor the quality of the fluid as it always fails from over temp before the trans does. Cooked fluid is what normally kills transmissions, not overheat.

Airdog specs are "optimistic"... If you have the upgraded f/w sep your specs are as follows. F/W sep: 95% free water sep, 75% emulsified water sep, 20um multipass at 90GPH. Final: 5um absolute, 2um at 94% at 60GPH.Run a Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315 for the best specs.

Because I can use the EB and CC at the same time I know about how steep a grade has to be for me to not need any fuel to run down it. Its steeper than one would think, but there are plenty of them out here in Idaho. 3-4% grade probably takes fuel to maintain speed, above that coasting will result in acceleration. I towed about 200 miles this weekend thinking about this thread and mpgs. Certainly cruise will effect mileage as you don't slow on hills, if you drop 2-5 mph on the hill and gain in on the down hill the mileage is noticeably, thou not remarkably higher. That being said, I'll continue to use cruise as often as possible, its so much easier to tow that way.

Ratings, pure and simple.OEM is rated at 98% free water sep and 95% emulsified water sep, at 60 GPH, which is greater than the OEM pump pumps. AD upgraded f/w sep is rated at 95% free water and 75% emulsified water sep at 90 GPH, lower than the pump pumps. The best f/w sep is the BF1275, 98% free water, 96.5% emulsified water sep at 120 GPH, which is still lower than a 150 or 165, but they only move that much fuel at a HEAVY demand, normally much lower.

I have had 2 or 3 tows where I am doing 25-30 and EGT's are 900-1000° on grades. The blankets work awesome! The coolant temp stays lower as do the IAT's. When I get to where I am going the few times I have popped the hood the under hood temp is noticeably lower than without.