AH64ID

One wears a cape... Honeslty I am not sure, but I have read that the HX40 has differnt combo's of wheels, just like a HX35. So my guess is its the biggest wheels available.

www.glacierdieselpower.com

The order has been placed for the parts.. now to figure out how to place the order for the time off to install them

That plug will work great. If your doing a permanant install I suggest one of the ports on the side of the block by the ECM. I understand what your saying as to it being different, but what I am saying is neither of those pressures are correct, so you definatly have the ECM flash that does away with true oil psi readings, so without a gauge you really can't tell. The ECM may be making it higher for multiple reasons, none of which relate to actual oil psi.

Hey I am young and have always, and will always love the pizza cutters.. IMHO a 255/80/17 is the perfect size on these trucks, other that tire wear I love mine... Thou 700+ ft/lbs to the ground on an 8K lb truck that tows and see's lots of dirt roads is hard on tires. BFG also has a 275/70/17, and it has caught my eye several times. I have thought about ditching my 2" level for a 1" level and going to that size on my next set of tires if my 255 KM2 don't last as long as I want.

I drive as soft as I can for tire life, but I think its all the torque and dirt. The 255/80/17 BFG KM2's I have now should be good for 20-25K miles, and thats with 5 of them. I have looked at cooper, but they don't offer a size I want to run. Thou I am considering 275/70/17's if I am not happy in the end with the KM2's. I really with the M55 came in a 255/80/17.

I refused to run the stockers, those were the worst tires I have ever ran (other than dry hwy miles.. acutally have a set for summer camping road trips, but summer only). My first set of 285/70/17 Toyo A/T's were done at 25K miles, 5/32 tread, and I took them off at 40K miles. The only reason I ran them after 25K miles was I did took the truck to Arizona for a 6 week school and they were fine for Az weather, but not for anything at home. My dad got 16K and 23K out of 2 sets of Toyo's in a row. I don't drive hard but I do tow, and tow on dirt roads nearly every time I hook up the camper, I am pretty sure that's why the tires don't last.

Other than not having to watch the gauge what do you really plan to gain from a light? I am sure there are 10 psi switches out there, and thats what I would get.

I am placing the order for the studs and turbo tomorrow, the nozzles are already on order

I can't get $$$ tires to go even 50K miles :banghead:

Welcome to the site, its a great place. Shouldn't your advice come with a refund? j/k!

Thats a good point, you never know. I sometime forget not everyone filters their fuel quite like I do, or uses additives every tank.

I vote you like the 40 better, about 9 lb/min more and a better turbine wheel, thou it will spool a little slower. --- Update to the previous post... The Super 40 is also good to at least 40 psi, while the 351 will make 40 it starts to get hot above about 35-37.

I guess if I read your post I would have known that.. Personally I don't think its worth the added cost.

I would put the money towards a gauge, a low psi switch doesn't really tell you much.

It does sound like an injector issue, the return too much fuel to let the rail pressure properly build. I would pull them and have them tested. DDP, II, and several others can do this for you. Its about 30-35 ea, which goes towards the repair bill if anything is wrong.

With the flow you are looking for there is no reason to not use the OEM pickup converted to hose on top of the tank. It will get you fewer issues and stock reliablilty with plenty of flow.

I too ran an Amsoil filter forever, but returned it a few months ago. I am much happier with the OEM filter. The new OEM filter is a 53034249AA. In fact Amsoil no longer offers the EAA189, from what I presume is too many returns/complaints. I was told they are working a 4" version, but time will tell. Here is a link to the MIT. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=AR-300-928

The only time I have ever gelled was my 20um filter, the 5um and 2um were fine. The OE canister has a fuel heater, so it's a non issue. I usually see a little lower pressure in winter, but not more than 1-2 psi, and only right at startup. Even thou the Duramax has the same injection pump the filter system and lift pump (or lack there of) are different and it's hard to compare. Bosch wan't 5um filtration, Dodge didn't want to spend the money on a 5um filter. The 6.7 has a 5um filter, and fewer injector problems, and I have never heard of cold weather issues other than regional non-winterized fuel effecting every diesel, not um specific. It is every owners decision, but I strongly reccommend the best filtration you can get, and thats the Baldwin PF7977 for the OEM cansiter.

Based on him saying 40 at idle and 40 at 2K I am 99% sure the ECM has the flash that elimiates the reading from the oil psi sender.. Makes me wonder if its just the differnce in ambient temps and seasonal changes as to why the psi looks different. 40 psi is not normal for 2K rpms, its about 15-20 psi low. The only time I have seen that low of oil psi at 2K rpms was sustained 1250* EGT's and 215* water temps for 5-7 miles.

That will happen

You know now that you mention it, every thing I have downloaded has come back corrupt! But the OP has a few posts to go till he can download anyhow!

What are your ultimate power goals? If you want to stay 450 rwhp and under then I suggest the Smarty Jr. It has the best timing, torque management, and tuning of all the programmers. Sure it's not change on the fly like the edge, but that's very overated IMO, and the Smarty runs stronger and cooler. Honestly the timing is the main factor in mileage, and the Smarty Jr runs the same timing on all 3 softwares, so set the max power you want and control it with your right foot. Stay away from pressure boxes such as the Edge EZ, MP-8, or any of the mileage modules. They are hard on injectors. For intake the OEM intake is good for about 450 rwhp and flows/filters better than anything in that range. There are 3 big improvements you can make to it thou. 1) A Home Depot CAI will bring more ambient air into the stock box when boosting hard, this will redice the IAT's and reduce the restriction allowing more, smoother flow. 2) A Airaid MIT will remove the intake baffles from the tube between the filter and the turbo. This mod direct air into the lower elbow and promotes smooth airflow. This will increase low boost throttle responce, and increase turbo spool. It also makes the turbo a little louder, but still passes the wife test. The best part about the MIT on your 06 is that it leaves the OEM lower elbow in place. The lower elbow has directional vanes that smooth the air as it makes the final 90* turn into the turbo. Holset claims this makes the turbo up to 30% more efficient. There is no aftermarket CAI I know of that does this, right off the bat you have lost performance there with a CAI. This is a low-mid range rpm mod. 3) The OEM intake horn is very restricive. It was built with ease of assembly in mind, not performance. A GDP Horn is the best bang for the buck on the intake horns, and it will hold a MK2+ filter kit if you want one. But the intake horn will decrease low end smoke (if you run a tuner), increase throttle responce, and increase turbo spool. I also saw 2-3* lower IAT's with the horn than pre-horn. This is a low-mid range rpm mod. As for air filters, the OEM is the best on the market now. Be sure it has the OEM 4" pleat version.

I beleive the service manual has the wiring diagram in it, and I have uploaded it to the downloads section.

The best fuel filter available is the Baldwin PF7977 at 5um absolute. The OEM filter is the 2nd choice at 7um absolute. Bosch (who makes the HPCR fuel system) reccommends at least 5um filtration. The GDP kit mentioned is a great setup. You can also see what I have done by looking at the link in my sig. Injectors are the achilies heel of the HPCR, so good fuel filtration is a must.