AH64ID

I have called and talked to them, several times. I get that same line every time, then I point out the TSB showing that 7um absolute is required and that their website states they are an 8um filter. Most the time they ask if I know how small 1 micron is, and their filter is "good enough", the verbage is always so close its as if they are reading a script. You may have more pull with them as a NAPA manager, so point out that they advertise that their filter does NOT meet or EXCEED spec, it falls short. Its impossible to dispute based on data Wix publishes, the data is black and white. I can say it doesn't meet spec all I want, its the same way the Wix states it when you read the data. The beta ratio of 75 denotes 98.7%, or absolute. A rating of 8 at beta 75 means 8um absolute, 98.7%. Its how filter ratings work. You can read it here... http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=33585XE I'm not making this stuff up. Based on the data that Wix publishes their filter should never be used.

If the conditions are just right mine will be that low, but its not often.

Any 3rd gen downpipe will work, 5.9 or 6.7, so my stock one would bolt up to the OE 6.7 elbow. I am not sure a HX40 would clamp on without mod.

It is a good turbo, but it was built for emissions. Its why the turbine and housing are so restrictive. There are modified versions that gain 27 rwhp on stock tuning because they actually allow the exhaust to escape the cylinders. The turbo was 1 of three hard parts used to meet emissions, the others were the cam and the pistons. The pistons can't be changed with an ECM change, and I already swapped the cam. Ditching the stock turbo is the next step in allowing the motor to breath freely. I really don't like how doing 80 can take 18-20 psi of boost in cold weather and 13-15 in warm, there is no reason for that. And I beleive it only does it becuase the DP is so high at no load when the rpms climb. Its 2:1 no load at 2500 rpms, thats just insane! It creates an EGR by not alowing the air to free flow.. So really I am just wanting to change the turbine wheel/housing out. But the cost to modify a stocker is 75% of a BB Garrett, its worth the few extra bucks to upgrade the entire turbo. EGTs will drop, spool will get better, and the truck will overall be happier.

The stocker/S400 setup gets some good reports, but its still more $$ and doesn't address the issue of the less than efficient stock turbine on the HE351.

$$$$$$$$$ At 400ish rwhp I'm not really needing twins. With my mods a Stage 2 will still spool as fast or faster than stock and cool a lot better, really all I need. Then if I decide to go twins down the road I can do it easily and have BB twins :-)

Sounds normal.. guess your building some -G's.

Does it happen everytime you hit the brakes, like stopped? Or does it happen as you decelerate? My pressure goes up as I decelerate, the harder I brake the higher the pressure. I run about 8-9 normally, and can get 11-12 if I stop quite quick. If its that then its normal.

I am by no means a 24Vologist.. but from what I have heard about and read about I would vote for either RV275's or anything of DDP's.

Fuel... You size a non-gated turbo to acheive optimal boost in the upper rpm band. They are slower to spool, but run better on the top end than a smaller gated turbo. The wastegate is simply allowing for a turbo that is a size or two too small for the application to be ran to get quick spool and a great bottom end. There are plenty of OEM non gated applications, just not many in vehicles, more industrial applications. My dad's 3406 rated at 600hp didn't have a gate, but it was a marine app.

Since the VNT plan went TU I am going another route. It’s a little more money, but hey that happens :-) I got a killer deal on a set of DDP 50's, one that I couldn't refuse. Nozzles were always part of the plan, but never in the immediate budget, but like I said I couldn't refuse these. I have wanted a different turbo for a while, as the VNT indicated. My main goal for a new turbo was to reduce the insane back-pressure created by the stock turbine housing and wheel. I don't need much more out of the compressor side, just more efficient. I am trying to decide between a Garrett Stage 2 or a modified Stage 3. The two turbos both have the same turbine and turbine housing; just the compressor wheels are different. One is a 60/80 the other is a 64/88. Both are water-cooled ball bearing units and should spool very fast and provide 35-40 psi of boost with low drive pressure. To ease my mind when the boost goes near 40 I am also going to be installing a set of ARP 425's. Most say I don't need them at my boost levels, but I don't want to find out the $$ way I need them. I will also be installing a set of manifold and turbo blankets. They will improve spool even more, and keep underhood temps down. Lastly, if there is any funding remaining, I will be getting an Edge Insight to monitor my OBDII readings, post-turbo EGT's, and oil pressure. The goal is to be done with wrenching by the 1st week of April, I have a busy schedule from now until the middle of March, so it will mostly be parts gathering for the next month and a half then wrenching.

Without a different pressure guage its only speculation its boosting to 45, it could be going to 36 for all we know. Really need to get a 0-60 on there.

It will probably take tweaking the WG a bit to get it where you want. The 24V head moves a lot more air, so your getting more drive air, which makes more boost, which makes more drive air. It will probably take more pressure to the WG, or less preload on the WG to equalize your boost. The loss of smoke is also probably due to the increased airflow from the 24V head, thats a good thing!

Am I missing something? Thats what I am saying. Lip renentrant and reentrant are essentially the same design, one just has a little more lip for flow. The illustrations are extreme's ( stole them from compD) for visual purposes... 03-04, 6.7 and 2nd gen are all closest to the middle photo.

Yes its just a monitor. It only interfaces with the vehicle thru the OBDII port or the its own sensors, no messing with the injector harness.

The 2nd gen pistons are more similar in design to the 03-04 and 6.7 piston, which is called a reentrant design. Its why 04.5-07's melts pistons easier than any other Cummins. Here are some visual examples. Reentrant Lip renentrant Non-renetrant

They aren't gen specific, they are mainly OBDII readers (like SGII), but has the option to have external sensors added.

I think I am going to move the SG to the DD and get an Edge Insight in the Dodge. It does so much more than the SG, and has several features I would like to have anyways (post-turbo pyro, turbo timer, and various pressure/temp sensors, backup camera). I'll probably start with just the post-turbo pyro and oil pressure. By using the CTS for oil pressure I can move my pre-turbo pyro from the A-pillar to the dash mount and have room for the CTS under the A-pillar. Down the road I would eventually like to monitor oil temp, diff temp, and trans temp. The OBDII gauges will be better than the SG since Edge actually has PID's for Dodge, so I will be able to monitor rail pressure with the Insight as well, and continue to monitor IAT's, Load, and Coolant temp as well. The insight also allows for 8 gauges on the screen vs the 4 on the SG, so I think it will be a good upgrade! But I haven't read much feedback on it. The feedback I have read is excellent, but its very minimal. So does anyone have any experiance with it?

My CR only smokes at low boost and when I really get on it. I can get a slight haze sometimes just accelerating, but for the most part smoke free. On stock tuning I am 100% smoke free, but if I go up to TM4 (most advanced) I can blow a constant haze if towing at rpms below 2K. The 04.5-07 5.9 CR's are more sensitive about timing at low load due to the piston design.

Thats complete oil changes. With the Frantz reccommended FCI you add 12qts of makeup every 24K miles. So your continously changing your oil.

The reccommended OCI from Frantz for diesel applications is 1500-2500 miles. At 5K miles are you sure your still getting flow thru the filter?

If there is a difference I doubt you see more than a couple psi change, and ambient conditions are enough to cause a 3-5 psi shift just at cruise speeds and loads, throw towing in there and one rpm can have over a 15 psi shift. The easiest time to tell a filter is more plugged is when cold and the internal bypass can't flow enough. You will have more pressure pre-filter and lower post-filter. But filter media is very important, its why you won't see anything on my motor but the Amsoil/Donaldson media, its simply the best. It holds the most contaminates, flows the best, and has the finest rating I have seen offered for full flow filters. The Purolator PureOne has the same filtration ratings as the Amsoil/Donaldson but is not an extended life filter. If you beleived in frequent and often oil/filter changes then look at the PureOne, its a bit cheaper than the Amsoil/Donaldson but it will not last for extended drain intervals. 7500 on a Pureone would probably be okay, but will need UOA to confirm. Oil does wear out, just at a much slower rate than it gets contaminated. With no make-up oil my last oil had lots of life in it at 30K miles, just too dirty to run. The other thing the TP have going for them is you replace a lot of oil when you do the filter every few thousand miles. So you are putting more additives in as you change the filter, this is one reason that dino can go so long on a Frantz style BP, lots of make-up oil. If you change your filter every 2K miles and add a qt of makeup you have done a complete "change" every 24K miles, so its a lot easier to go for extended drain intervals with non-synthetic. I wouldn't suggest synthetic with a Frantz as it's just too expensive, the oil I run is about $8 a qt, not worth dumping a qt every 2K miles.

But there is no published efficiency rating at 1/2 micron. Consider that a screen door will catch 1% of 1/2 micron particles... The Frantz do a very very good job of filtering, there is no doubt. However there is no way I am putting TP into my lube system. A 2um bypass is plenty for me, considering I also have a 15um full flow and the OE system is 25um (all absolute ratings).