AH64ID

Yep, I always buy from a place that I consider hi volume for that reason. The one tank I got bad was the first time I bought there, but there are always diesel rigs there. I was heading out for a 1,200 mile trip to Arizona and didn't want to detour to my usual spot, and since I was getting reimbursed I wasn't worried about the .20/gal difference.. well that taught me.

They are in. Pretty easy install, the hardest part was getting the OEM's out as they don't have a handle. The P2 are quite a bit heavier than the OEMs. I'm going to monitor voltage for a while, but in the little I have driven them they seem to be a little lower.. probably just a coincidence.. but normally the truck ran 14.3-14.5, maybe 14.7 when cold and now the highest I have seen is 14.1 (which I prefer).. With the computer controlled charger I don't know whey they don't drop the voltage to about 13.5 after they are charged, my Toyota did it.. so why won't my Dodge.

Something I thought of last night was what pressure does the VP run normally? We know max is 17K and pop is 4500, but say at WOT what pressure do you see? If its a long ways above pop then you will not see any benefit to increasing pop.

I have only ever had one bad tank, and it was just old I think?? Mileage sucked and the owner said he had a few complaints, no water or filter plugging.. just no mileage and no power.. got 13mpg on the fwy where I normally get 16-18 in that stretch, and the weather was normal too. I put odometer, trip miles, engine hours, trip hours, overhead mpg on my receipts, then if my excel log crashes before I can back it up I can record the fillup.

Generally speaking I start in 2nd, and no fuel until the clutch is fully engaged. 2nd on my trans is 3.38:1, on my old toyota with 35's and rated at 117/140 1st was 3.93, so no reason to go any lower in my truck almost 4x more torque at 1,000 rpms than the old one had at rated rpm.

Well after more than 113 fuel purchases I finally started throwing away my piles of receipts today. I had kept them for a while after a fuel purchase in case the fuel was bad, but that turned into piles stashed in this drawer or that cabinet... couldn't think of any reason to keep them, other than to keep them... so away they went as I found them this weekend.. Found 5 piles of about 5-10K miles work each pile.So anyone else in the same boat?

Sounds painful!I've got two, and still like them.. Not sure I'm getting more or would get them again, but no complaints.

I don't have a link.. been too long to even know what they are called. But I will be trying to borrow the old mans here in a month or so. As for fueses, most things electrical will tell you how much they draw. So for my on board air compressor it draws 19 amps max, I think I put a 30a fuse in to account for minimal jumps in load for motor start. I am sure the fan on your cooler has a rating on the fan and/or box, probably in the 5-10 amp range.

Congrats!That would be a great thread, and I can almost see ISX drooling over the opportunity!Just a few quick answers (some take longer)1) Your frame is tied directly to the neg side of the battery, so the whole frame/body/etc is "grounded" just the way the system works. In a DC (Direct Current, like in auto's) the electricity must flow back to the source, so when your reverse lights come on the power leaves the battery (or alternator) and goes thru the switch down the wire to the light, then thru the light into the neg wire, to the frame and back to the battery thru common grounds. 2) With a multi-meter, wiring diagram, or screwdriver style electrical test light. 3).. Those manuals are long! I have been using once since I was a kid and am still learning!4) They make adapters for multi-meters that put a pinhole in the wire to test voltage, small enough for voltage to flow, but not big enough for water. 5) Same for resistance. 6) You will hear feedback in the stereo, otherwise no clue :shrug:7) Fuses work off the fact that electricity makes heat, so the fuse melts and the circuit becomes incomplete it if flows too much electricity and gets too hot.

Sounds like it will work well for just on/off.

Timing is effected by pressure since it takes longer for the injector to open, and will probably close sooner too. So I would expect shorter duration as well. But the fuel will atomize better, and better atomization means sooner ignition, so that advances timing.. So the question is: Does the advance timing from higher pressure negate, exceed, or fall short of the retarded timing from the higher pop pressure?

26,100? That seems really high for a VP, that's more than my CP3 makes! --- Update to the previous post... Okay, dug out the service manual. It says it may produce up to 17,405 psi, pop pressure is 4500 + or - 250. I would say it would increase atomization and increase mileage and/or power.

Nice job! I like the EPA comment.

I've never done ball joints on a Dana, but on the rigs I have done them on they aren't too difficult, once you get em loose!Good luck.

Bummer, I really can't see any other way to cool the VP any better.

I solely use Firefox for the SP!!

Doesn't anal-retentive have a hyphen? --- Update to the previous post... And I prefer "excessive"

I plan to go Bilsteins when I replace mine. I spend a fair amount of time on dirt roads, and want all the help I can get. Rancho 5000's are usually fairly well priced and have worked good for me in the past.

That sucks!

Off the top of my head I am not sure if you would ever get the truck to shutdown if you did that. The under-hood temps will rise quickly at a stopped idle, so I would assume fuel temps would rise as well. I guess the next question for Mike to answer is this, will the VP44 return fuel if the VP44 has no power? i.e fuel pump runs for 1 minute after truck shuts off?

I hope you can laugh at this just like I did.. I debated posting it, but saw it 3 or 4 times and laughed every time... its the simple things in life!!

I didn't think the VP had one either, the VP44 loses power and stops metering fuel.

Because I have seen batteries that are good in warm weather die as soon as it gets cold, its not fun to deal with. I do all my maintenance on a preventative level anyways, and the way I use my truck 6 years off of the OE battery is an acceptable time-frame. Battery insulators do help, but honestly if its blowing 20 and 20* out after 12 hours the batteries and block are at the ambient temp, regardless of insulation. I appreciate the input, but the batteries are being changed Monday and despite all the sound advice I can't pull the trigger on low quality batteries (but what do I expect, I have 4 more filters on my truck that Dodge/Cummins felt were necessary.. guess I don't go with the norm most the time).In this case more money is getting me a lot more CCA, CA, and HCA I think that's worth it alone, the reputation of the battery is the best, and that has to do with the price tag. You do get what you pay for, but in many users realm you don't need the best, the ambient conditions don't require it. just my :2cents:I am also replacing the batts in my wifes rig and DD this winter, due to age nothing else (well the DD is showing signs below 40*), but I am not even considering the P2's, Standard batteries will do based on use.

I know on my manual trans if I coast in N the EGT's take a lot longer to drop since the airflow is greatly reduced and fuel is being injected. Above idle and at 0 TPS there is no fuel injected.

30 seconds of grid heater (at 200+ amps) followed by 3-5 seconds of starter (450-700 amps) is enough to warrant good batteries on a cold soaked motor 70 miles from town. My current batteries will be 6 years old (6 years in-service, who knows how old) on Thanksgiving, so its not like I am getting a short life out of them. When we are hunting and my truck fails to start it would be a 7 mile hike back to camp, and that would be after already hiking 10-15 miles that day. I had an Optima Yellow Top that was ABUSED, I drained it many times. Once I left the dome light switch on for 6 weeks and came back to .010V (at 4 years old), it took a million dollar marine charger to even recognize it as a battery and 2 days to charge, but then it was good. It then sat for 9 months thru a deployment and worked fine after a few good charges (this was at 8 years old). I used it for winching plenty, and sold it with a truck in 07 (3rd rig I had it in), and when I talked to the kid that bought it the battery was still working in 08 or 09 (don't recall)... So good batteries do make a difference. I would have gone Optima this go-round but they are an odd size, and have fewer CCA's. The discount I get on the P2's makes them the same price as Optima..