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AH64ID

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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. I think Cummins rates their enignes at 85*F, and you lose 1% power for every 10* rise.. (going to have to find that reference).. So colder is better.It still takes x amount of fuel to make 100hp to do 65. If you have warmer air it will take more boost to get the same air to cleanly burn x amount of fuel... Luckily air:fuel ratio's aren't fixed in diesel so a fudge factor can be in play to still get clean burning.. so a mileage increase might occur.As far as my opinion of warmer air for better mileage is the same theory as why winter mileage sucks. Warm air makes everything better, less air resistance on the truck, warmer tires roll easier, warmer drivetrains have less resistance, I think all of that is the bulk of the reason warmer air nets better mileage, same thing in winter I think the cold effects on those items far outweighs a minor change in BTU's of #1 or treated #2.
  2. You probably won't notice a difference, if you do it will only be when your boost levels are higher than the fooler allows the ECM to see, and then it just depends on if the puck has adjustability in those boost ranges.. But at least you know that everything is seeing what it should.
  3. This was a mod I had been wanting to do for a while. Its pretty simple, build this for less than $20 with toilet/plumbing parts. A lot of guys use 4", I went 3" because it fits better and its still almost 80% more air than stock, now we get into filter flow rates, and just what the turbo will need. The stock air intake is good for at least 450rwhp, so this should just help out with a little cooler air at high boost. To start remove the OE air box (which sucked for me as I have a solenoid for my winch attached to it, at that alone took an hour to unhook). The going in and out, top and bottom, find where you want to center the 3" hole, and then mark it and start drilling. I didn't have a large enough hole saw, so I did the redneck version, and smoothed it with a drumell. Next slip the toilet flange thru the hole, it goes at an angle so more grounding was required. And put the bolts in loosely. The put the box back in the truck and put the 3" pipe into the toilet fitting and adjust it so that it fits the hole in the front of the fender. Then tighten the toilet fitting so that's where it sits. The fender goes in and out a few times in this step. At least its super easy. Then pull it all back out, and carefully remove one nut at a time and locktite the nuts. Due to the angle they aren't all super tight, as that will change the angle at which the flange sits. There is enough tension that locktite and lockwasher will hold it thou. Put it back in the truck to verify angle, and mark where you want the bottom of the PVC to sit (I bought a 24" section of 3"). I put a threaded slip fitting on the bottom of mine so I can block it off in winter (blowing snow), creeks, or super dusty roads. The only time this mod is really useful is towing at high boost, which normally doesn't happen in snow, creeks, or dusty roads. Then verify length, and PVC glue that sucker into the toilet flange, and bolt your truck back together. Since my truck is not my DD anymore I put a shower drain fitting in the flange to keep critters out. I trimmed it so its removable, but wont bounce out. I know it restricts flow a little, but like I said under 99% of my driving the minder never moves. It was also an experiment, if I need to remove it, no biggie. What I noticed was another degree or so reduction in IAT's, and it takes 2800+ rpms at 32psi+ for my filter minder to move now, and thats with the extra air of a cam. Before the cam/CAI I was able to pull the filter minder down at 2700 rpms at 32+psi. I rarely, if ever, run over 2500 rpms.. so I am very happy with the setup. Part of the reason I pull the filter minder down at all is the Amsoil EAA189 is only good for about 90% the CFM of the OE 2" filter, and even less than the 4" filter. Amsoil is working a 4" pleat nanofiber filter, that I will go to when its released. So in the end I am getting more air, its cooler air, and it cost a lot less than the PSM version. I also like how its smooth on the inside, vs the corrugated PSM which promotes turbulence. So if you have a few hours and $20, this is a great mod!. Kinda ironic that its called a Home Depot CAI, when I bought all the parts at Lowes!
  4. Didn't realize the site would take .xls files :-) Thats a good looking log, I haven't put any color to mine. [ATTACH]1268[/ATTACH]Cummins Log.xls
  5. Gotcha... I had a 95 runner for a few years, it was one of the very rare 22RE 5 speeds, only 1/1000 was that combo that year! Really liked the rig, I wheeled the piss out of it and it was in great shape at 160K when I sold it.
  6. you can also find them all at www.jakebrake.com It takes a little more planning and a little more time, but they do an amazing job of stopping. If you think yours may be too low then hook your boost gauge up to your pyro port (needs 6' of copper to cool off), or to the port in the brake itself and make sure your getting the pressure.. should hit about 60 at 2500+ rpms.. No need for springs on your truck, 2nd and 3rd gens have 60# springs stock.
  7. I'm still not sold on the BHAF idea, how is hot air good? I realize you can get more air, but less cold air is better than more hot air. If your stock, or CAI setup doesn't pull down a filter minder than your not going to see a gain from a BHAF, you will actually probably see a loss of hp, or a rise in EGT's. Every 1* rise in IAT means a 1.5* rise in EGT's. :shrug:
  8. MAP increases voltage with boost. Correct thinking on putting the switch before the fooler, full voltage will hit the fooler, and it will regulate that to show the ECM the max acceptable boost... That may actually work well on a 3rd gen too where typically a smoke switch throws a code and limp mode.. I don't have a desire for one, but lots of folks do :banghead:With a smoke switch the correct order would beMAP-Puck-Switch-Fooler-OE PlugThe puck goes in first becuase you want it to do its calculations based on actual boost, not fooled boost.
  9. Here is the 3rd gen steering. Its not the most clear. Here is the 2nd Gen... ---------- Post added at 03:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 PM ---------- Correct, and correct.. As you can see on some rigs the tie rod connects in the drag link (2nd and 3rd gen), and on some the tie rod attaches to the knuckle separately (like some of the photos you linked).. I think the latter is a stronger and better setup.
  10. Yeah with quick estimation math I think most of the seafoam ends up in the tank.. I think you missed my question on the runner.. Is is a 98? Or does it have a 3.0? There was no 3.0 in 98.
  11. The parts change a little on crossover steering setups. The ???? are on the track barThe thing you have labeled the track bar is the tie rod (tie rod always ties the tires together)The thing you have labeled the tie rod is called a drag link.
  12. I would have to agree with that. Are you getting feedback on why the others are failing? Do you fuel from the same spot? How's your voltage? Could you have a bad voltage regulator.... heck I could go on and on with what if's... I suggest you take it in as well!
  13. No, you won't have a track bar on a 2wd truck, thats for 4wd trucks.
  14. Hey man, I know this is your forum and all.. .but isn't this supposed to be a family site?
  15. If the shock is seized or has a bent shaft it could. When I used to run RS9000's and I turned them up to "5" on the rear of a XCab SB chevy the truck would vibrate at certain speeds since the shock couldn't move fast enough for the road conditions. Probably not the cause, but I'm still throwing it out there.
  16. Hopefully I got them all right.. I had to think hard on a few for a while.. It sucks when you know what something is, but can't remember the name of it for the life of you!
  17. A: Idler armB: Part of the Idler arm, never heard a different name for it. C: Inner Tie Rod EndD: Toe in adjustment sleeve (not sure on name)E: Outer Tie Rod EndF: Tie RodG: Mount for steering stabilizerH: Pitman ArmI: Bump StopJ: Sway Bar Link, FrontK: Steering KnuckleL: Shackle (or reverse shackle, since the spring is above it)M: Sway Bar Link, Rear
  18. Try pulling the inner fender liner out and going that way.
  19. Simply stating that your fuel filter bowl has the possibility of holding the highest concentration of water in your entire fuel system. Also if you fill the filter bowl with sea-foam, say 12 oz, and let it idle for 5 minutes, you have burned about 10oz of "fuel" (at 1GPH idle, which may be hi or low, depending on load), but with the stock LP you have pumped almost 3 gallons of fuel thru the filter and injection pump.. So you have only burned a very small amount of seafoam, prob less than 1oz , the rest has returned to the tank, where it will mix with the fuel and emulsify your water. On a side note, how did you get a 98 4runner with a 3.0? The last year for the 3.0 was 95?
  20. Except for the water that is in the fuel filter housing, since that's where its stripped from the fuel!
  21. I have ran B20 twice.. Once it gelled on me 2 days in a row (the 2nd day the tank had HUGE amount of anti-gel and additive), so that left a REAL sour taste.I did run it again when I was in Az this spring.. I really like it, no change in MPG, broke 18 like every other tank down there, and had more fuel pressure (+1 min over #2), and ran quieter..Too bad it costs so much up here!
  22. I had an intermittent rough idle at startup 2 summers back, it seemed like an injector wasn't opening on various hot starts.. I think it happen 10 or so times... Well since then I have added 2um filtration, an extra f/w separator and run Amsoil diesel concentrate every tank... Hasn't happened in 18 months, so between cleaner fuel and some heavy towing to work/clean the injectors it quit... So good filtration and heavy use goes a long ways.
  23. Their Diesel FAQ page says "Sea Foam Motor Treatment is 100% Petroleum"But the MSDS says "10-20% IPA by volume".. That is not a petroleum product in the sense they are advertising!So believe what you want with their advertising..