AH64ID

Lifetime coolant. Need find out what the 150K maintenance is, but you’re likely not due for that yet.

If you can figure out what stuff it is that might help. More than one of the current coolants are lifetime. The coolant I had in my 05 was good for 8 years.

What coolant is it?

While that used to be a blanket statement, it’s not anymore. More and more ST’s have speed ratings above 65 mph. I can’t even recall the last time I saw a new ST tire that was only 65 mph rated.

The axles are likely not homemade, and might have a tag on them. Either way, if you’re planning to load it to axle capacity you need ST tires. But it’s a triple axle, so I’d be surprised if you need more than 6K/axle which means you could look into some used LT tires for trucks. Such as 245/75R16 or 235/85R16.

What size are the axles?

What size axles?

They might be accurate. I know on my 05 running my tow tune I hard a hard time breaking 1050° empty, but could break 1200° towing. So empty on a stock 12V tune may just not run that hot empty. That being said... $20 for a probe and gauge seems a little cheap, and I might not trust it. Wait til morning and see if it reads close to the ambient temp.

A lot also depends on where you want your best rpm range to be. 60/60/12 will do best at lower rpms, such as towing in higher gears. The 62/68/12 will do better at higher rpms, such as racing, or more "spirited" driving.

That would be right in the realm of stock head bolts or studs, but stock bolts should be good unless you crank the HX40 up. The hybrid that @Mopar1973Man man runs would be a great turbo too.

What mods are on it now?

What are your goals?

Big mud slide on 55 today, but at least the rain is gone until Saturday. Friday’s temps will like I melt some snow thou. Hopefully the worst has past.

I wouldn't worry about a car. They are engineered for being shut down like a non-turbo. Besides, the loads are so light and you can only make full power for so long that there just wont be too much heat in there. But, if there is a factory pyro you might be able to read it with an OBDII gauge. If there isn't a factory pyro then all the more reason to just drive it. I don't worry about EGT's on my '18, but I still do cooldowns. Usually only a few seconds in P, but when I've been towing I give it longer. .....and a 3rd gen.... and a 10-12 4th gen. The longer control arms do wonders for the front ride, and so does the auto-level with softer springs.

Some of the stuff on their website makes me think they don't do a lot of product research before selling, such as the cat filters... but the studs do seem like a good deal for the tensile strength.

Do you have a volt meter? If so you can connect the two of those and find out what pin goes where. Then use do the same when you cut the other connector off.

Im not following. Isn’t there a 7-way plug on the other end?

That's a much higher torque than I understand it to be on the stock bolts. I think it's closer to 110lb/ft. Based on stud vs bolt, and the application procedure the ARP's will be tighter at 125 than OEM bolts at 125. The ARP's will also stretch less for the same amount of cylinder pressure, which is why they can hold more.

If the plug is attached you can find out what wire goes to what socket, and that will tell you what you need to know.

What does the other end of those wires look like?

I haven't seen a finned cooler on a SUV, but have on some of the pickups. What axles are they using in the Cherokee? When the first one failed did they do a complete axle swap, or just the R&P? If they just did the R&P that's likely what caused the 2nd failure, as it's a lot of extra work to get all the metal shavings out of the housing.

Not really relevant what happens when empty. Coolers aren't needed when empty, they are needed at high GCW's. You don't even need a Dana 80 for most the driving you're doing these days. A D44 would do just fine, and take less fuel too.

More torque means more friction, which means more heat. The vast majority of folks will not have a temperature issue. Several OEM's are adding finned covers on some of their models, and they wouldn't do that for fun.

Same brand as the POS ones I bought in 2014, but I notice that the ones I bought in 2014 now have a warning attached stating they aren't for use above 13V, which will cause burnouts... sure explains it!!! Those look like they are designed for the higher voltage, and should be good.

We did the cheap LED upgrade a couple years ago and barely made it one season. Weak light output and lots of bulb failures. When I pulled them out the next off season every board looked cooked and most the LED's looked burned out... no wonder they were weak on light. I ended up installing 3 Manputo LED utility lights in the main area and "master". I got nicer LED's for the remaining fixtures, and they seem to be holding up well.