AH64ID

Stay safe. Material things are just that....

Yes you can charge them together, but I would personally remove the brake only battery and just run one single deep cycle battery for the winch and brakes. With a solar charger I would make sure it doesn't overcharge and shorten the battery life. That will likely happen without a charge controller.

Its an okay filter for the application. The specs on the BF1275 are better thou.

I don't think there has been enough time for them to do the repairs if it did get hit, so you are likely in the clear.

Gotcha, your post above made it sound like you were still running the POS OE filter. That's a much better filter (it's generally used on a Cummins B3.3). It doesn't have quite the flow or water separation ratings of the Baldwin BF1275 but it's much better than the WS100.

@015point9I do my online filter shopping at www.filterspro.com, but they don't carry everything. For the airdog I recommend the BF1275 and the Donaldson P551315 or DBF5816 @Mopar1973Man I would put a different f/w sep on there at your next change. The suction filter is the best place for a f/w sep, as you don't want to be putting the water thru the 3µ filter if you can help it. Also it's not even a 20 GPH filter and the suction filter on the AD has the most flow since the return is after it. It can't hurt anything to put an actual f/w sep on there. @Dieselfuture Filters are recommended to be changed after time because they can break down internally. Many, not all, of them contain cellulose media and/or glue. If the filter starts to fail you won't necessarily see a pressure drop. I change mine every 30K miles, 18 months, or at a visible pressure drop. Based on my current driving habits with the truck I do an 18 month change. It's probably overkill for plugged filters, but like I said filters do wear out. If you look at industrial motors, which have very robust OEM filtration setups, they generally recommend 12 month or 500 hour filter change intervals. They almost all have staged filtration with lots of media, but that doesn't extend the service life of a filter. My last change was stretched to 20 months due to some out of town time for work. They were on for 15440 miles, 482 hours, and 1091 gallons of fuel burned. Being a diesel most the fuel gets filtered more than once. The in-tank pump runs at around 50 GPH under pressure. That means the filters had over 24K gallons of fuel pumped thru them, which is why time is also a factor in replacement. I'll be doing another filter change in September when I do my annual oil change before elk hunting.

@jlbayes I generally agree with why you have your stance. For most people they will get the expected longevity from factory level filtration, aside from early CR's and even then all 5.9 CR's. Now that ULSD is standard fuel, and the lubricity additive isn't missed like it was when ULSD was new, I feel the same about fuel lubricity requirements. I do see more issues on peoples vehicles that are only maintained with OEM quality, but not to the point where it can be completely quantified. I also realize that the type of person who runs the cheapest anything is not the type of person to spend time of forums of this nature. All that being said I still run 3 fuel filters and lubricity additive every tank. (as well as better oil, bypass filter, coolant filter, etc..) I do realize it won't show me any gains in 100K miles, but over the life of the truck it should help. There is also varying degrees of benefit, such as economy, power, and efficiency. Call Vulcan and ask what filters they are. Do you still have your OEM filter in-line? There are several AD filter options that have WORSE than OEM filtration, like the one moparman appears to just have showed you . That looks like the WS-100, aka FS19768. It's actually not really designed as a fuel/water separator but has the FS designation due to the drain (directly from Fleetguard). It's only rated for 50% f/w separation and 0% emulsified water separation, at a mere 19.82 GPH... so basically it won't do crap for water issues at the rated flow of the AD. For reference the OEM 10µ filter is rated for 95% free water and 95% emulsified water separation.

Ill look when I'm around my tuning computer.

He is around ~2400' at home, but can easy get above 4,000.

I've always been a fan of tall and skinny tires. For my fall/winter tire I run a 255/80R17 and it works great. It is a little wider, but with the weight of these trucks it's not an issue. I do still drag my pumpkin in snow quite a bit and a 245 would lower them by about 1.5" and that's going to cause more issues than 10mm in width.

No need to jack it up. You have 4.10's.

Looks like corrected numbers. What was the elevation/temp? How much smoke was billowing?

Wow, smoothing on 5!! Did you see what it looked like on 0?

I drove thru the fire on Thursday and today. It looks to me much smaller and not super close to moparmans. On thursday there were 3 helo’s dumping water on the fire a mile or two up the ridge from moparmans. Today there was only 1 helo.

I don't run a temperature gauge, but I do run fast coolers and have wrapped my down pipe. The down pipe being wrapped has reduced the floorboard temps so I am sure it has helped the trans temps too. I'm not sure probe placement is as critical as some suggest since the fluid isn't stagnant when you are driving. All the gears moving in there will slosh and mix it all around. From what I have read overfilled transmissions run hotter than standard fill transmissions, and there are a couple theories. One is that the additional fluid does a better job pulling the heat from the gears/bearings so the fluid is hotter but the gears/bearings are cooler; and the other is that the additional fluid doesn't have the splashing inside the case and thus loses some of it's ability to cool and makes the gears/bearings and fluid all run hotter. I think theory one is the most widely believed. I know the NV4500 has some 5th gear nut issues and that started a scare for towing in 5th, but the NV5600 doesn't have that issue and can tow in top gear... As far as temps OD will almost always run the hottest. I've personally never heard of cooked fluid or bearings on a NV4500 or NV5600 and only a few cases with a G56 and ATF. I'll continue to use 6th when I have the power to do so.

Same order or did you change your mind on anything?

Well I just researched the dates for Ram and it looks like there are 10 days left to order a 2018. The normal cutoff is in July but this year it looks like it's running until 10-AUG. But then I also found an article that mentions the order cut-off was back in March????

That sucks!!! Maybe they'll fix it and sell it at a used price. I'm willing to be it's too late to get a 2018 ordered, and he'll have to find one on the lot or wait for a 2019.... probably at 2019 prices too.

Yes, more pressure can lead to freeze plug issues. For the most part we don’t have cooling issues with 5.9’s.

I don't see that part number on Donaldsons website, but yes that seems like too little flow for a larger turbo. It's likely great for a stock turbo. LR, MR, and HR are low, medium, and high restriction... which basically means how much vacuum they produce at said flow.

I would research the BHAF you want to run and see what it's specs are. You might have to do a little shopping thou. Most people don't care what their numbers are without a filter as most wouldn't ever run without a filter.

If you are maxing that turbo out it's going to move around 1150 CFM. That's still a relatively small turbo as it's built on a 300 frame. At max airflow it's only a 56% efficient turbo, as compared to 77% in the middle of it's map. Look at it this way, my turbo is rated for up to approx 900 CFM and my air filter is rated at 675 CFM. I've never seen my filter minder move with my current intake setup, and it does work as I could move it with 100 less hp and a smaller OEM filter and a non-modified air box. My normal tune is 400 rwhp, but the tune I have in there now is likely in the 525 range.

The increase in flow on the 6.7 pump is because of the cooled EGR. The 6.7 pump runs too much pressure on deleted trucks and it's not uncommon to see deleted 6.7's running 5.9 pumps, especially if they like higher rpms. Long story short.... keep the 5.9 pump.

It's really not that hard to find a filter that will work with most applications. Consider that 15L motors have air filters too, and they move a LOT of air. Just like fuel filters, if you do your research and size it properly there will not be a measurable restriction. The 62 SXE is a 75-80 lb/min turbo right? So that's roughly 1050 CFM at peak airflow, there shouldn't be any reason you cannot find a filter without a restriction for 1050 CFM. Even if the filter is rated for high restriction at 1050 CFM most the time that is only 8" H20, or .29psi of restriction.

I haven't watched the videos, so not sure what they are talking about but here is my 0.02 on fires. It's been 30 years since the 1988 fire of Yellowstone that showed us how bad our policy on fire fighting was. Up until that fire we put every fire out as fast as we could, which meant the fuels built up instead of burned up. Now we try to let fires burn and keep structures/lives safe. More letting of fires burn means more fires active, and if you combine that with varying winter weather you end up with a lot of fires. The location of some fires gets them a lot more publicity than other fires. So far it doesn't seem like it's any worse of a fire season around here, but the fire locations are getting lots of publicity. We also have more human caused fires, which is another topic all together.