
Everything posted by AH64ID
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Weird Water Pump Lubrication?
The antifreeze should provide all the lubrication needed.
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Weird Water Pump Lubrication?
Don’t forget to flush the blinker fluid and to grease the muffler bearings.
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Oil temp gauge
If you install one there is plenty of depth on the oil filter head in the port closest to the head. It won't effect flow and it will get a good reading.
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How strong is a stock clutch?
I'm not sure if the 3rd gen NV5600 clutch and the 2nd gen NV5600 clutch are the same or not, by my OEM clutch held just find with the S-JR on the 40hp setting and towing, but it slipped the first time I tried the 100hp setting. It would only slip at 1400-1600 rpms but I pulled it within a couple weeks for a Con-OFE. Looking back at my dyno sheets the power was about 290/610 on the 40hp setting and 385/710 on the 100hp setting. Stock was 285/520. That's all uncorrected at 2700' to the rear wheels, so use it for what you will. Flywheel hp/tq is approx 115% of rear wheel. My next clutch will likely be the Con-OHD. My dad has a OHD and I like it a lot better than my OFE. My current OFE has zero issues holding my 400/850 tune even WOT at 26K+.
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Oil temp gauge
I don't think it's a bad idea to have oil temp if you tow with above 350 rwhp. I think there is a reason Cummins dropped back to a 190° thermostat and added an oil temp gauge on the 13+ trucks. I'll be putting one in my truck this spring to know for sure thou.
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How can I Lower My Egt's
I often wonder how long at what temp it takes to help clean out carbon on the pistons and soot from the head. I know my first couple tows in the spring, after not towing all winter, will get some extra soot out the exhaust at 25+ psi and 1100°+ for a minute or two.
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Torque Management Solved (for FREE)
Looks like it.
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Torque Management Solved (for FREE)
Probably one of the reasons why auto's were more power limited in 2nd gens. What controls the unlocking? Will it still unlock with the truck thinking it's in N?
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Torque Management Solved (for FREE)
Do the VP trucks defuel on the shift? If they do, and this removes that defuel it will take a seriously built transmission to handle the shift.
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Grossing 16-17k in the Northeast, should I expect more from truck?
When looking at the SW3 sample make sure you don't go quite as static on the timing in upper loads. I've tried similar with more timing in the middle but on UDC it got me slower boost response and more haze while towing, I think mostly due to the high pilot timing. My lowest timing at 2000 rpms is 3.5° but I only have 12° of pilot at that point (Stock pilot timing is 45° at the same fuel flow!). I also can't run that much timing on most trucks with 04.5-07 pistons or they haze really bad. Stock pilot timing is at 57° for 2000 rpms and WOT. Looking at the stock timing table you can see why mileage drops off fast above 2000 rpms.
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Turbo blanket?
I forgot these were on photobucket. I'll try and get a better one, but this is what I've got for now.
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Grossing 16-17k in the Northeast, should I expect more from truck?
Yes I was talking 6.7 cruise rail pressure. I was trying to think back to the 2010 I've got a few miles in, but that cruise was around 55-60 mph.
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Turbo blanket?
I am not sure that the heat is an issue as the components are designed to handle the stock EGT's of 1450° from 03+. I think the benefit to a tighter fitting sock is getting the maximum benefit in turbine efficiency, but I am not sure it's going to provide measurable differences over a looser fitting form fit design. I only brought it up because you mentioned you wanted a blanket that was as form fitting as possible, which I don't think is the style labeled "form fit" but rather a sock that conforms to turbine better. I guess it comes down to preference, since as the end of the day they will both improve turbine efficiency and reduce underhood temps.
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Turbo blanket?
When I can take them I'll post them. You've known me long enough to know I don't BS stuff.
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Turbo blanket?
Long story short... A formed fit cover is a box trying to cover a circle. The formed fit ones have hard corners where the pieces meet, this will create an airspace under the seam. The sock covers fit like a sock...tight everywhere. Would you rather wear a sock or a cloth cube on your feet? Form fit is only form fitting in name. Look at the photos, they fit loose... end of story. There is nothing in the photos on the link you provided that shows better insulation. I don't have any photos with me, and I am away from my truck, but consider this.. What hugs your body better... a sock or a boot? A sock, as it conforms to all the shapes of your foot. A boot is already set in its shape and wont conform.
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Turbo blanket?
I think the socks are actually more form fitting than the form fitting ones. Form fitting ones will have a larger air space where the side pieces are sewn, whereas the sock will conform all the way around the turbine housing. I was looking at the website you linked and my sock is a much tighter fit than any of the form fit ones they show.
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Turbo blanket?
I got the standard 2" header wrap from the local auto parts store along with the silicone spray to help keep moisture out, thou I don't think it stays very moist with the temps it sees. I'll be changing the exhaust this spring and I'll inspect it. I attached it with 3 or 4 5" hose clamps. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/design-engineering-exhaust-wrap-black-2-x-15-010121/17310029-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=17310029-P&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1-fVBRC3ARIsAIifYOM6-uV8gI0IlrhxBU8Tf4nUvaBs8N0RSiduZCHfMmcv5TkbcFyw2XQaAmEtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Grossing 16-17k in the Northeast, should I expect more from truck?
The 6.7's will run as low as 8-10K in cruise but I haven't had good luck that low. I think I've running 14-15K with good results lately, but that's with UDC Pro and modified pilot timing vs 2012 which was UDC. Too low will probably end up with increased EGT's and possibly decreased mileage but I haven't played with it since UDC Pro came out.
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Turbo blanket?
I run TPP blankets on my manifold and turbine housing and header wrap on my downpipe. The underhood temps are considerably lower and I like that. I can pull a slow hill at 1000°-1100° EGT's get to the top, stop and touch the blanket. I'd never run an oil pan blanket thou. The oil pan has a high surface area that will provide some oil cooling and I do not want the oil retaining any additional heat when I am towing.
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Grossing 16-17k in the Northeast, should I expect more from truck?
My understanding is that the ECM determine how much fuel it needs, then it references the rail pressure table, and lastly the duration table to determine the injector open time. Then it applies the desired timing and adjustments... etc. Under general terms rail pressure won't effect the quantity fuel injected, but rather how long it takes to inject it. So lower rail pressure means a longer injection duration, and higher pressure means a shorter duration. My theory on lower rail pressure producing better mileage is that it takes less power to compress the fuel, and the longer injection event allows for a more efficient burn at low fuel volumes. At high fuel volumes we're going for as short of event as possible. Where we get into needing more pressure to get the fuel injected is high rpms and/or high duration where crank angle degrees happen really fast. For instance using a stock 04.5-07 duration table, 140mm3, and 26K psi it takes 1890us to get the fuel injected. At 1800 rpms that is 20.4° of crank rotation and timing isn't an issue to get it all in. At 3500 rpms it takes 39.7° of crank rotation which can mean some pretty advanced timing... and that's on a stock duration table, just imagine if the duration is stretched 50%. This is why, with custom tuning, I am a fan of slightly oversized injectors that can run stock or less than stock duration. I only run about a 1600us pulse WOT so I don't need too much timing, less than 20° until I'm above 3400 rpms. Clear as mud?
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Can anyone recommend rear lift springs..
Long arm suspension... probably at least a 5" lift. The springs are not factory, so it appears to have lift springs and lift blocks already. Can you find any tags on whose springs or lift it is? Can you measure the distance from spring seat to spring seat? Maybe someone can measure their stock truck and give you an idea of exactly how much lift it has.
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Can anyone recommend rear lift springs..
It looks to me like there is a 2" lift block on top of the OEM block. That makes me think you have a 4" lift up front and a 2" lift out back. The lower, bigger, block appears OEM. I agree it's a good idea to ditch the stacked blocks. You should be able to keep the OEM block, but it depends on how much axle wrap you get, and even removing the OEM block might not solve it all and you'd have to go with traction bars. IIRC the 2wd trucks use a thinner OEM spacer. You could go with that spacer and a custom leaf that give 4" of lift. That should get you good axle control and not too harsh of a ride from arched springs. The OEM uses a spacer to keep the leaves flatter, which improves the ride. How do you plan to use the truck? Towing? Hauling? Racing? Street fun? If you want custom springs you can see if you have a local spring shop. I have custom ordered leaf springs from Alcan in the past. They worked great, and did exactly what I asked for in the build. For your picture it doesn't look like there are 2 blocks under the spring, just 1 tall block. There is a crease in the middle of the block from the casting mold, is that what makes it look like 2 to you? The very bottom main leaf is an overload lead, as are the 2 supplemental leaves above the main pack. Supplemental Overload Small Spacer Small Spacer Main Leaf Main Leaf Main Leaf Main overload 5" Spacer
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How can I Lower My Egt's
That makes sense. So you need to think about how you plan to use the truck year round. 4.88's will be the most "fun" around town, and do great for towing at higher speeds of 65-70. You're big hill climbing speed will likely be limited to about 58 based or rpms and not power. 4.10's will be a little more sluggish around town and not tow as well at 65-70, but you will be able to downshift to 3rd at 60-70 and pull hills at 2300-2700. So it's a tradeoff.
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How can I Lower My Egt's
Is his 5th wheel lifted? It seems like the 5er and the aft section of the bed would be way too close. I've seen plenty of guys contact their campers with 35's. 4.10's would put your gearing about where it was for a 265/75R16's and 3.55's. 4.88's will take some the the mechanical disadvantage away, similar to stock tires with 4.10's. It all depends on how much towing you plan to do. In OD yes, but the truck would be at 3K rpms in 3rd and 65 mph... so there is a trade off too.
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How can I Lower My Egt's
Are you able to tow a 5th wheel with the lift and 37's? My folks have a 5er with OEM flipped axles and his 06 on stock rear suspension and 34's is about as close as comfortable for dirt road towing. Anyhow... if you're going to continue running 37's and want to tow then a gear swap is in order. If the towing is occasional and you don't want to spend the cash then lockout OD until you're above 60-65. Have you ensured there aren't any boost leaks? What kind of boost are you running with the EGT's at 1100 and 65 mph. It's likely everything is due to the gears, tires, and larger turbo.. but it's also good to verify there aren't any leaks. Wasn't there another guy on here wanting to ditch his 4.10's.... 2nd gen too??