AH64ID

That's small. If you upgrade it I would say 3/8" all around is fine, but if the pump is still on the motor it wouldn't hurt to go 1/2" supply and 3/8" feed. With 3/8" line it takes less flow to maintain pressure, and the VP is pressure sensitive.

I am not sure of the OEM size on your truck so I'll defer to a 2nd gen expert. On my truck my line to the OEM filter was 10mm (3/8) so I only had to increase the line size from the OEM filter to the CP3.

I personally don't think so. 3/8" is plenty for 100 GPH. You can change the pressure spring on a DDRP to get higher pressure.

I highly recommend keeping the stock filter bowl in place as well, but mainly as an additional f/w sep and WIF sensor. The heater is nice but won't do anything to help the filters before it. The filter that plugs from gelling is always the first unheated filter inline. The wax will plug a 20µ filter in short order, let alone a 3µ one. I run 2 fuel heaters on my first 2 filters and don't worry about the underhood one as the underhood temps are generally higher and I block that side of the engine bay with the winter front. If my 3rd filter were exposed to ambient temps and wind I would heat it. A clean filter provides no significant restriction. I run 3 filters on my OEM in-tank LP and pressure is the same as without. It does drop in winter with cold fuel but after a while driving with 2 300w fuel heaters it will heat up. You're likely seeing petroleum asphaltenates which are often smaller than 3µ and are from your fuel source. It's hit an miss for me to have any asphalenate on my canister filter, but more often than not I have a little. A 10µ filter catches 98.7% of particles 10µ and larger. As the size of fuel contaminates decreases the efficancy of the filter decreases, but a 10µ filter will catch some particles that are 2µ and likewise a 3µ filter will pass some particles that are 2µ. The Donaldson 3µ filter is about as good as it gets, with only the Fleetguard NanNet filters being better, IMHO. The NanoNet FF5814 is the replacement for the P551313, and the FF5817 is the replacement for the P551315. What fleetguard is that @Mopar1973Man Look to see if the pressure is adjustable. Either of those standalone pumps can move more than enough fuel to keep pressure where it should be.

Yes that can happen, but he cracked the line to the fuel rail and got nothing. That’s not caused by an injector or crosstube.

It sounds like he’s not getting fuel to the rail, so it seems to me the issue is in the CP3 or supply line.

It doesn’t sound like injectors, as the CP3 should still output fuel to the injectors. If you’re not getting fuel to the rail the issue is before the rail. Disconnect the the fuel supply to the cp3 and put it into a jar or something. Turn the key to on, then bump it to start and release. The LP should run for ~30 seconds and you should get quite a bit of fuel. This will verify you don’t have a blockage issue.

Can you hear the lift pump cycling?

I thought the dual fuel filters started in 2013 with the DEF motors. I've heard numbers from 3500-5000 for the minimum pressure needed to fire. You can unplug the FCA on the CP3 and that will allow full fuel. See what it cranks at or if it starts. If it does start don't let it idle, shut it off as the rail pressure will be very high.

Based on what Tractormanm posted earlier the Toyota transmission acts completely different than the dodge transmission, and that’s why it seemed odd to me. The Dodge trans will decrease rpms and drag when unlocked, whereas the Toyota transmission will increase drag and rpms when unlocked. A Diesel engine has so little drag itself, which is why exhaust/engine brakes are needed, that it seems that the Toyota style trans would actually work better.

The exhaust braking is different to me than coasting... but as Tractorman pointed out an unlocked 47/48 will decrease in rpms and the transmissions the intentionally unlock for braking will increase in rpms.

And there is the difference. All the auto's I've driven that unlock while braking increase engine rpms, and thus increase load and increase engine braking. I know lots of new cars also drop the rpms while coasting, no braking, to reduce drag. There seems to be a lot going on within the modern auto trans. AFIK Toyota just unlocks the converter, at least that's what the bulletin I read said... it has been a few days thou.

Because there is OEM documentation from at least one OEM that engine braking is better with an unlocked torque converter. I have driven multiple vehicles that also unlock the tq converter for enhanced engine braking, thou they were rentals and I don’t recall the make/model. I owned a Toyota that did it so I recall that info more specifically. I brought it up because it’s the exact opposite of what you guys are saying here, and I found that interesting. I trust what you guys are saying it’s just odd to me. It makes me wonder why. It honestly makes no sense to me that a locked torque converter can provide more resistance than an unlocked one. There should be more drag, and higher rpms, both of which should give better engine braking. That being said I’ve never driven a 47/48 trans and cannot provide any experience with those, I just my experience with other auto’s.

I understand that, it’s just backwards from the auto transmission I’m more used to. They very specifically unlock while braking and it makes a big difference in engine braking. It does warm up a little, but not too much. It could be as simple as TQ converter design, as one may create more drag while slipping than another.

It’s not a downshift. The ones that come to mind right now are the Toyota truck transmissions. There is Toyota documentation on them specifically unlocking the torque converter to improve engine braking. Not only from increased rpms, but from the increased drag of a unlocked converter, all of which is aside from any downshifts.

The 47/48’s drop to N while coasting? I didn’t think they did. The transmissions I have driven that unlock the converter while braking have a very noticeable increase in drag with an unlocked converter as the converter has drag when unlocked, and no drag while locked. You could coast with a locked TC easily, then tap the brakes the TC would unlock and you would slow down much faster. I know why you want it locked for EB use, but general coasting is odd. Just different transmissions I supposed.

It seems so weird to me that you want a locked converter for enhanced engine braking. I would think it’s the opposite. I know that some gas vehicles purposely unlock the tq converter to enhance engine braking when the service brakes are applied.

Whoops. I read early 04 and opened an 04.5 for some reason. They are slightly different. Are you taking the back roads to Sedona? That's a lot of downhill if memory serves so the time to get to operating temp might be normal. Then again if the intake is getting warm enough to trigger the fan at a 28° differential your thermostat might not be sealing and heating the radiator, which will heat the intercooler, and then the intake air with a winter front mostly closed. I'll bet the CTS can monitor IAT's, and probably AAT's for troubleshooting. The stock 2004.0 tune shows that if the IAT (intake manifold) is 28° above the AAT (air intake sensor) the fan will start to ramp up. The AAT also has to be above 60°. Initial fan rpm is set to 1200 and it ramps up 80 rpm/deg from there. The fan is commanded to max at 38°. Haha...yeah 60° is a bit much for 1 flap closed. The fan kicks on at 210° ECT. My foam barrier was missing too and I was seeing higher IAT's that I was used to. I replaced it this last October but haven't towed in any heat yet to see if it made a difference. I'm pulling very cold outisde air right now thou.

Intake air temp is also used for fan control. I don't recall the parameters off the top of my head but if the IAT is enough above the AAT the fan will engage. What kind of intake do you have? I have only ever had the IAT's engage the fan once. I was doing 5-10 mph on a steep uphill single lane dirt road with all 4 flaps closed and my IAT's got to around 140° with it being 25° outside. I've been driving around for the last few weeks with 3 flaps closed in temps from 12°-33° and the fan hasn't cycled once. Which flap do you have open? I leave the one open on the side by the intake/exhaust. Is this coolant temp? If so you need to find what is causing the coolant to stay so cold. My truck is the coldest blooded truck I know. The cam, turbo, and coolant filter all increase warm up time and the longest I've seen to get to thermostat opening, 190°, is around 16 miles. That includes some driving in -30° weather. Which means the dash is correct, but it doesn't mean the temp sender is correct. But if the temp sender reads cold the fan should run even less. I forgot I had downloaded UDC Pro onto this computer. The stock 2004.5 tune shows that if the IAT (intake manifold) is 24° above the AAT (air intake sensor) the fan will start to ramp up. The AAT also has to be above 60°. So I would guess that you're getting some hot intake air and some hotter manifold air. What does the CTS show for IAT's? Can it show AAT's? The other day I was driving to work in the low teens and my AAT's were about 2° higher than ambient and my IAT's were about 15° above that until my thermostat opened and then the warmer radiator warmed the intercooler and my IAT's were about +30° from ambient. Also.. being AZ, what are your ambient temps? Over the years I have found that a winter front only has minimal impact on warming the motor up but has a big impact on it keeping temp while coating, stopped, and parked with the engine off or on.

You were expecting higher? That seems pretty good for the trailer.

More coffee. It looked like you were responding to his post this morning. Yeah 27° seems like a lot for no studs, but that is at 3K rpms where it's needed and start of ignition won't be anywhere near that high.

I didn't realize the axle flange stuck out further on the Dana axles.

He turned up the fuel, not the timing.

I dropped Toyo in the LT line many years ago. I then tried a set of BFG KM2’s and they did good. My current set of winter tires are Cooper S/T Maxx’s and I LOVE them! They are quiet, have awesome traction, and are wearing better than any LT tire I’ve ran. Cooper has earned my repeat business, something that hasn’t happened on my truck yet.

Yes