AH64ID

Bio Diesel and used cooking oil are not the same thing. You should have ULSD not LSD. Even marine fuel is now ULSD.

I think I'd rather run #1 than treated #2.

What kind of controller? Maybe it’s looking for resistance to check brakes and will drop the voltage once it senses a trailer.

I would not use 2 stroke in a 6.7 that hasn’t been deleted. I ran 2-stroke for a bit on my 05 and it didn’t like it. That motor also didn’t like Cetane boosters on stock tuning. As far as anti-gel I don’t run it as a general practice but I will run it for certain reasons. Early in the season when fuel isn’t treated yet and I expect cold weather (elk hunting usually), or when weather is colder than the area I bought the fuel in (Boise fuel isn’t treated the same as New Meadows fuel), or I’m unsure of the treatment level. It’s not common for fuel stations to get it wrong, but it does happen. 2013+ Trucks have 2 fuel filters and 2 fuel heaters, this will really help. The first unheated filter is always the first to plug when fuel starts to gel. IMO the 2-stroke isn’t what helps @Mopar1973Manin the winter, it’s that he gets properly treated fuel. Try to avoid bio diesel of more than 5% in the winter. As it has been mentioned it’s very hard to treat for cold, and gels much easier.

This is a quick method, but still ends up with slightly higher pressure than the charts call for. For the weights you listed the chart pressure is 50/35. Youre right at the 50 psi limitIt would actually be lower that 35 for the rear but that’s the min recommended pressure for street use. I keep this chart downloaded for quick reference. https://www.toyotires.com/media/3729/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

That’s too high for an empty truck. 60 psi will get you 6040lbs of capacity, or above most 2500 axle ratings. Everything is stiffer too handle the weight rating of newer trucks. The body mounts are awesome, but it’s really difficult to absorb everything from the road. With the proper tire pressure my 3500 auto-level rides better than any other HD truck I’ve been in. With door placard pressure, 60/80, and an empty truck it feels like a 4500… but still better than the competition.

Are you not making grocery runs to Ontario anymore? I got my last tires there, it was worth the drive.

2100 on the 06 vs 1940 on the 02, so pretty close. It does make for a great hill pulling rpm in 6th with the G56. Once you get that 06 tuned it should do a lot better on fuel at 65-70 too, timing falls off pretty hard in that speed. $1050 is what I paid for my Cooper AT3 XLT’s in 275/70R18, but I was able to wait for a sale. Currently they are $1325 for all 4 out the door, compared to $975 for 265/70R17. Stock sizes shouldn’t be 600-800 more, what size 18 were you looking at?

As noted on TDR you saw it on 1500’s, not HD trucks. That being said we have no clue what is in store for ‘22. Thou many don’t believe 5th Gen HD trucks will debut until ‘23 or ‘24.

What are you running for tire pressure in the 19? (I won’t call it a 5th Gen since it’s not) What about the 2nd Gen? With modern trucks wanting so much pressure empty I wouldn’t be surprised if it related to that. AlfaOBD will let you set your TPMS alarms lower if needed. I know that when I run too much pressure in my 4th Gen, or even previous 3rd Gen, that I got funky vibrations from the road surface. Proper pressure and those go away. I run my 18 3500 at 55/35 empty and it’s smooth. If I run it at the door placard of 60/80 empty it’s nowhere near as smooth, or comfortable.

Ouch!! Drove by your place Friday and saw Thor in the driveway. I had been hoping to catch you before you bought the 17’s and try to talk you out of them. Too little load rating for these trucks, but I’m sure you’ll be fine now that you have them. Just know that it’s very easy to exceed the tire rating on 17’s and a 3rd Gen truck. It’s why I went up to 19.5’s. Gonna feel those low G56 gears with stock tires, but pulling the 2” level will really improve the ride.

Correct you can turn the EGR down, or off, but that's still not considered a delete. A delete is the removal of the equipment. On the 13+ trucks I don't think you can get around the 24 hour run time regen, but then again the 13+ trucks don't use much fuel at all to regen.

River drives always provide mythical mpg numbers and those numbers should be stricken from the official record. Just enjoy the ride.

You can't turn the software off to all emissions equipment and leave it all installed. You can reduce certain items, but it's not considered a delete.

I would look at your driving cycle first. You may not have any effect on regens if you’re not triggering DPF loading based regens. Unfortunately I don’t know much about the VM regen cycles and what all triggers them.

Yikes... that message means you should change things up. That much warm up time is not recommended, 3-5 minutes max. Anything over 10 minutes per hour of drive time is considered excessive idle time. Get a block heater and a winter front. Idle it for a little bit and drive off. Mine usually idles 30-60 seconds when it's cold.

No, 03-04 are very solid 5.9s'. Even 04.5-07's are good engines, but they are more prone to piston problems than any other generation. I'd rather have a 3rd gen 5.9 than a 3rd gen 6.7, especially if you live somewhere you can't delete.

I wonder if the 3.0 is like the HD’s and will regen based on run time or DPF status. On my 2018 I’ve never seen a regen trigger that wasn’t based on the 24 hour max time between regens. I had one today. Often my DPF back pressure doesn’t change much from pre regen to post regen based on how I drive it. I’m not sure I can adjust that max time between regens with tuning software, so it makes me wonder if the 3.0 doesn’t have it or if they simply reduce DPF fill % for certain types of driving.

Continuous is just that. Momentary could be the last few hundred yards of a long grade, or passing someone. It’s pretty much get out of it when you can, but you’re ok for a short while. Plenty of variables there too. Rpm, duration, how long you’ve been hot already, load, towing? Sled pull is very different than towing. It’s short duration on a motor that isn’t heat soaked, so you’re safer hotter. Without knowing the motor it’s hard to give a number, but 1200° sounds safe.

Yes both truck and trailer. GCW = Gross Combined Weight. I usually recommended not getting gauges with the green/yellow/red markings as those are universal and do not apply to all, or even most, applications. Let’s look at EGT’s. @Mopar1973Man 2006 on stock tuning is capable of running 1450° all day, and often will easily exceed 1300° towing. It fine, since in stock from that motor uses retarded timing which puts more heat out the exhaust. Now if you take that same motor and run a tune with proper timing you would melt something at 1450° continuous. I always told folks 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary when towing with one of my tunes. See how a colored gauge would be misleading in both applications? That doesn’t even take probe placement into account. The same is true for colored trans temp gauges. What fluid? Probe placement? Etc.

10% idle time is still good thou, so I wouldn't worry too much.

Yeah that doesn't sound correct. I wonder if the drive hours have reset, as I've heard about on some of the HD trucks with the standard dash. It always happens at 1092 hours. Idle hours don't reset. So that would put you at 1892 hours and an average of 26 mph.

800 hours means an average of 63 mph, so it's possible that someone spent the life of the truck on the interstate. How many idle hours? Odd hitch setup for sure. Have you looked up the window sticker?

I ran a Yukon spin-free kit on my 05 and can honestly say I never saw any definitive increase in fuel economy from it. It did make a huge difference in steering wheel feel, and 2LO was nice but I am not repeating that mod on my 18. Sure I wanted to, but it just wasn't something I could say gave me a benefit. Dad also put them on his 2006 and never saw any mpg increase either. There are advantages and disadvantages to the narrower shorty kits. I chose Yukon since it ran the old school wide stance for a couple reasons. The wider stance puts less stress on the bearings in turns and also run cooler.

5th gen's aren't out yet in the HD trucks. The 19+ is a 4.5 gen. The 13+ emissions aren't anything to be afraid of. Good fuel economy, great power, and very few issues associated with them. I went from a decently modified (turbo/cam/injectors/custom tune) to a bone stock '18. The '18 generally gets ± 5% of the fuel economy, pulls the same grades at the same speed, and is a better towing setup all around. When my engine warranty is up, 3/36 expired today, I may do a small tune but the emissions will stay intact. 04.5-07 5.9 pistons are of the non-reentrant design and arguable the weakest piston ever used in a ISB motor. In addition to the cam, which was also used on 03-04 trucks, the pistons, turbo, and ignition timing all work to create the in-cylinder EGR. Looking back and knowing what I do now about the in-cylinder EGR I think Cummins would have been better off to just put an external EGR on it. Similar to how meeting 2010 emissions in 2007.5 was good on paper and marketing but it wasn't great for the motor. I changed the tuning, cam, turbo, and lastly pistons. I didn't lose the full in-cylinder EGR effect and excess soot in the oil until the pistons were changed. UREA was first utilized on the MY13 pickups and MY10 C&C trucks.