AH64ID

Looks like Amazon has it for $35 gallon when you buy 4. Walmart shows it online $33/gallon with free shipping, thou I’m not sure that applies to AK. Looks like a decent oil for the price group. It’s a little thinner when cold and has a higher TBN than the similar Amsoil, but the Amsoil is thicker when hot and has a higher HTHS rating. I am surprised with its TBN of 12, don’t see that much anymore. That was more common with CI oils than CK oils.

Unless something unannounced happens for 2022 trucks that oil will work perfect in your new truck. CK is the current spec and I’m not expecting a change for a while.

Specs have changed a lot since 99, and they are almost always backwards compatible. Go look at the jug and see what specs are on it. CI, CJ, CK? Depending on how long you’ve had it it very well may work in the 22.

First step is to answer my question on the spec of the oil.

The 12.0 is only offered on the HO, so they are excluding the 11.5 DRW axle. Regardless of wheel configuration SO gets 11.5 and HO gets 12.0. It’s a poorly written section thou. Since 2003 there has been no direct recommendation of anything heavier than 75w-90 for the 11.5” axle. I even called AAM 12 or 13 years and asked about it. They simply said they built it for 75w-90 and unless you ran over GCWR in Death Valley it wasn’t needed, but you’re probably close 🤣 Why RAM went to 75w-85 over 75w-90 I don’t know.l

Only on the 12.0” DRW, which is the HO. The SO DRW still gets a 11.5” axle, which has 75w-85 recommended. The 20K mile change is only necessary with their junk OE lube. It’s easy to get double, or more, out of quality gear lube. I went 50K miles on the lube in my 05 and it could have easily gone longer. I don’t think it’s too thin, it’s what they designed it around. DANA and Sterling designed theirs differently. I look at it the other way, requiring 75w-140 tells me they could have done a better job designing it. Thou I do understand the 12.0 DRW since it has a very high GCWR. @Turbo Terrywhat classification is the Mobil? It might work in the new truck.

When did the “new” eco diesel come out? Very few complaints with those.

Please don’t do this. You will damage the 19+ lifters with that thick of a cold oil. What are the specs on the Delvac you gave? What rating does it meet. I know @NIsaacsput 75w-140 in his new truck, but there are VERY few people who warrant this with the AAM axles. Unlike DANA, AAM doesn’t need thick gear lube to preform properly. 75w-90 is plenty for front and rear and all you should ever need in the front. Unless you live in/near Death Valley I wouldn’t consider a thicker lube. Possibly Amsoil 75w-90 up front and 75w-110 out back, but I would run 75w-90 in both, even with a 3K camper… especially in Alaska.

Nice find. Also know that the TIPM monitors amp draw and the original programming didn’t have high enough amps in it for the starter so it was common for 06’s to see the condition you saw. The telltale was removing power from the TIPM and if it reset and starts then the TIPM software needed updated. There was a TSB for this. I vividly remember this since dads 06 was towed in Boise and the dealer said could not duplicate after disconnecting the batteries. It happened again near Deer Lodge MT, when we found out the Boise dealer was uneducated and screwed him.

High pressure pop off isn't all that uncommon and why FPRV delete's are not recommended. The injectors stop injecting much faster than the CP3 reacts to huge changes in load, i.e. WOT to 0% throttle. It also happens at much lower loads, but not as easily. Bottom line, the PRV gets used. Even shutting the truck down can cause spikes above 26K from 5K. Realistically anything with too high or too low of rail pressure that is causing derate's would set a CEL. Emissions related issues create the "See Dealer Now", nothing else that I am aware of. There should also be a CEL with it, but that CEL is likely disabled with the tune. The only other thing similar is the "Perform Service Now" for the CCV change. With the 2006 if you didn't get a CEL then it wasn't derated as 23 psi is enough for 100% fuel. The boost was limited by the wastegate as the solenoid defaults open without power applied, such as with a broken wire. Rail pressure isn't driven by boost levels, so it's not surprising you didn't see low rail pressure.

It sounds like an emissions/DPF derate. I would check all the disconnected plugs for corrosion or something else that might be causing a short. I see AlfaOBD shows low fuel pressure derate, but the dash indications aren't appropriate for that.

How long has the current tune been in the truck?

I’ve driven or ridden in lots of G56’s and if they have a SMF then they have gear rollover. The “quiet” disks dampen the intermediate plate noise, but that has nothing to do with gear rollover. Amsoil MTG is a GL-4 75w-90 trans fluid. I always recommend it and have lost count of how many G56’s I know running it. I’ve never heard one complaint.

Which viscosity is in it? Not that it really matters much thou. I'd have dumped it before driving it, or as soon as the mistake was realized. Additionally even the CF oil isn't rated for that 2003. It needs to be a CI oil or new, CK is the best. CK>CI>CJ The only Penzoil Platinum I can find with the CF is 5w-30, which is also not the correct viscosity for a 2003 Cummins.

You’re seeing the downfall of the OD ratio on the 47/48 trans. My 6th is .63 and with 3.42’s it’s still under 2000 at 85. In TH it won’t even go into 6th until 65. It will hold it decent at 65-70, but 5th and sometimes 4th are needed on the hills.

@LorenS are there any ways you can get yourself setup differently? On either of the rigs I’ve had long says towing isn’t even a second thought. 19-23GCW and 6-8% grade at 7000’ is just normal, as are 500+ mile days towing. Most camping trips are much shorter, but the trailer is often an afterthought and with the effort to get away. @IBMobilewe don’t even have a working microwave in the house right now. Hate those things.

The 5.9 never met the 2007 standards, and 0.006” wouldn’t even bring it close.

There are a couple of theories as to why it went from 0.020” in 05 to 0.026” in 06 with no internal changes and no tuning changes. One is that the extra gasses held back keep the NOx production down further, but since there wasn’t any new emissions mandate from 05 to 06 that’s hard to justify. The theory I believe the most is that the added contact time dissipates more heat from the high EGT’s and the valves/valve seats last longer. The 6.7 also uses 0.026” with a total design charge, adding emphasis on exhaust valve longevity as the reason. Modern diesels run higher EGTs and need strong exhaust valves/seats.

There are several options for keeping the command valve or you can delete it and use another turbo. For how you plan to use that truck I would look at having the turbine wheel changed out for the HE351VE version. We did that on dads and it was a huge improvement across the board. The cruise EGTs are mostly due to the retarded timing, which is part of how they met emissions that year without an external EGR.

A 1200w Gen is perfect for winter camping since they are small and it will power the converter to charge batteries, but as you mentioned it won’t run the a/c or microwave if you use them. We put a micro-air easy start on our a/c and just have a single 2200w Gen and 200w of solar with a 1500/3000w inverter. I can run the a/c, but I have to power manage the converter and fridge if I’m doing that. Generally battery SOC isn’t an issue summer camping since there is good sun and minimal 12V use compared to winter camping. I use to carry 2 2000w gens and prefer the single 2200 now. The micro air allows the a/c to start easier on the single 2200 at 6000’ than the pair of 2000’s did at sea level. It starts so easy you don’t even hear the compressor cycle on shore power. Bottom line you need to decide how you camp. Some people want the ability to use all 30A at any given time and need a Gen with 4K watts of surge. Other don’t. I have friends that camp with Keurigs and remote start generators, while I use a percolator and prefer not to unpack my generator unless I have to… which is usually on a cloudy day when the Traeger runs for 6-10 hours and the solar can’t quite keep up. If you can’t find the paperwork you can look at each appliance. The fridge usually tells you what it draws on ac, 300 or 440 seems to be the standard. 55A converter is up to 1000w, but they often don’t hold that long. A/C needs up to 1700 running, and sometimes double that, or more, momentarily to start (did I mention micro-air yet 😁). Then the rest of the stuff is likely small draws.

You certainly should have heard the fan at those temps! Still seems abnormally hot for 10K GVW on a 5.9. My 05 wouldn’t cycle the fan with Smarty programming until 215° and is rarely get above 200-207° (207° was full open) below a GCW of 15K lbs. Once I went UDC pro I programmed the fan to come on at 210°. Be sure to get an OEM fan clutch, they are more money but the PWM on the cheaper ones is often problematic and doesn’t work as well as the factory ones. Lots of examples of that over on TDR. The fan won’t light the CEL, but it should set a soft code. And the fan should be loud, but my 05 was very quiet compared to my 18. We need to get you a UDC pro tune for that truck. Stock 06 tuning sucks in comparison, especially with the G56’s low ratios pushing you over 2K rpms easily.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/tach-problems-on-06-ram.213452/page-4#post-2375316

Well it looks like they don't have the exact one anymore, SC-0305. But this one appears to be the replacement. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-replacement-driver-side-seat-cushion-gg-sc0305cl/seat-cushions All the non-MOPAR ones appear to be the upgraded HD durofoam now.

It's a short bed so it was born a SRW. You drive at under 1000 rpms around town? I think your failed tach is messing with your head 25 mph is squarely in the 3rd (2000) or 4th (1340) gear range. I'm certain you'll change your mind once you do some towing. Having driven and towed with a Getrag, NV4500, a NV5600, and a G56 AD, and driven a G56AE a bunch but never towed with it I'd never want to own a NV4500 truck, even for around town. I'd buy a clean 93 Getrag for fun, but it would likely get a G56 before too long. The difference is big empty and amazing when loaded. The Getrag was the best 5 speed but it had a splitter...

It's a rather common and known issue with the tach's on the 06 clusters. The soldering fails and the tach is usually the first thing to fail or become erratic. I've never read about AC noise as an issue on 3rd gens, but lots of folks have bad tach's on 06's. 275/70R18, a AD G56, and 3.73's would put the rpms at 2000 in 6th at 65. If you haven't adjusted the stock speedo then at 65 you're actually doing 68. The difference is 4.7%. 68 mph is 2090 rpms. 285/70R18 would be doing around 1950 rpms at 65, but that's not a common size. 285/65R18 is much more common and is actually shorter than a 275/70R18, but a 285/75R18 would get you down to 1900 @ 65.