AH64ID

This is a crazy winter for water around here!!!! It may be more of a deal with it until "normal" weather returns.

Sorry, I'm speaking of 3rd gen BJ's, no clue on 2nd gen stuff.. not sure how they differ but 2nd gens are a bit lighter.

I haven't ever heard a good thing about MOOG BJ's, but steering seems to get a better rap. The local diesel shop is pretty particular about what they install so I'm going to trust his recommendation. It's also a little cheaper than MOOG.

Can't get OEM quality to the door for that low and if I am going to buy a new steering stabilizer I may as well get OEM quality. I would also need a new pitman arm so it's about 450+ for the T type. The T type also doesn't seem to have as good of quality drag links as the Y type. T steering is also on their 12 revision and multiple recalls since it was released. That doesn't instill a lot of confidence.

I was recommended mevotech parts by the local diesel shop. I'll look into them this afternoon.

All your MOOG experiences sound just like my NAPA experiences.

Any reason not to stick with my OEM Y steering?MOOG replacement parts are $217 to my door, and I don't need a new stabilizer (less than 40K on a Bilstien 5100), or pitman arm. T steering appears to be $340+ the pitman arm and stabilizer for OEM and maybe $75 less for MOOG. I have 125K on my OEM steering and it's never given me DW or any issues. I do plenty of towing/dirt road driving, etc... not a single complaint other than it's starting to wonder a little now. Will MOOG last as long as OEM? I've also been told to look at NAPA parts, which I generally HATE buying, and they are just under 2x the cost of MOOG. Generally price and quality are directly correlated but most the online reviews put MOOG and NAPA in the same quality/longevity bin. Any direct experiences here? Thanks

The mini maxx should have all the gauges you need. Trans Temp Boost EGT The trans should be fine if you don't drive it like you stole it.

IIRC the factory filter for 00+ got bumped to a 7um filter. Personally 10um isn't enough, even if there are 2 of them.

Personally I don't like the filters that have Air Dog badging on them as you don't actually know what filter it is. 3um is what you want, as long at it's really 3um. You also have to be careful with AD f/w separators if you have any of the old ones that sucked and were much worse than stock. Donaldson P551315 and a Baldwin BF1275 are the only filters I would run if I owned an AD. IMHO 10um isn't good enough for diesel injection pumps, especially when 3um is available and won't effect flow until plugged... and if it's plugging you want better filtration! Some of the 10um filters that fit the AD don't have the flow rating of the 3um Donaldson so you are actually not even getting the 10um rating out of it. I wouldn't have poured the diesel out as a new set of filters costs less. In terms of gelling it depends on local averages and when the fuel is conditioned. The only issues I have had are when the weather gets colder than normal. I've had two gelling issues, once at -8°F with B20 in the tank (gelled completely) and once at -19° with fuel winterized for about 0° and I had a bad fuse holder on my fuel heater (pressure dropped but it still ran, just starting to plug the filter). The next night got to -28° and I didn't have any issues with a working fuel heater.

When the 6.7 first came out the main difference was the design of the impeller, as the EGR cooler required more flow than the 5.9 motors. I am not sure what, if any, changes were made for the 13+ trucks with a difference emissions system. High rpm 6.7 users with deletes are known to swap to a 5.9 pump as the 6.7 is too much flow at high rpms without an EGR cooler. EDIT: According to quickserve the 2013 385hp motor uses a 4309429 water pump, and a 2010 uses a 2881804. My 05 5.9 calls for a 2881805.

10um absolute isn't good enough, IMHO, for diesel injectors. Baldwin does make great filters, but that doesn't mean it's always great for the application. The Baldwin BF7634 would be the Baldwin to run, but IIRC the Donaldson P551315 is a better filer. There are better filters than Cat these days, and have been for years. The FF5613 is only a 5µ absolute filter and only at 60 GPH.

Going to bed last night it was more than 60° warmer than 2 nights before, and it was only 4° above freezing. The snow is melting quick but the rain is making for some very slick roads.

Is that while towing? 0.5-1 is pretty good then. PoD won't do what you are thinking. At PoD 85 all the power is there up thru about 2800 rpms. At PoD 75 all the power is there up they about 2200, IIRC. It only effects the throttle position tables so fuel is untouched. Think of it as limiting your throttle to 75% on PoD75, except the way the ECM fuels that can still be 100% fuel at low/mid rpms. SW3 will be better empty, but SW1 is still what I would use towing.

Well the weathermen were wrong, weird, and the warmup didn't start until 3 am. We got to -27° at the house at midnight, and it was -15° when I left for work. The truck coolant was -11° and it started, slowly, and was quite angry for a few seconds. I would have plugged it in but I repurposed the extension cord to heat the pipes in the garage, and didn't want to go dig in the shop for another one with it that cold out. I think I'll put the grid heater back in when it warms up a little.

I want one of those JD's for the property! Maybe someday. Speaking of Hoth... Until last night the coldest we had seen living here, since 2005, was -8°. Last night got to -18° at the house and tonight passed that up with vengeance. The "warm" wet front is already moving in with more snow (snow to start tomorrow midday and bring 6-12" over 36 hours). Up to a warm -19° now.

Well I found my problem. It appears the fuse holder for my additional fuel heater had faulty wiring that caused it to go open/closed/open and heat up to the point of bulging and melting. I can also see exposed wiring on the inlet side so I feel the issue was in the holder. Before I found the failed fuse holder I was using and IR gun to check fuel temps while the truck was running. I was getting -12° in and out of the 1st heater inline (additional heater) and 11° out of the 2nd heater (the inlet is too hard to hit with an IR gun). The fuel psi gauge showed 0 psi but I was running fine, and before I would start the engine the pressure would go to 8 so I wasn't fulled plugged just partially. Once I found and repaired the fuse holder the pressure went to 6-7 with the engine running almost instantly, within about 2 seconds. Fuel heaters work! The temp out of my final filter was up to 34° about 30 seconds after fixing the 1st heater. That's 23° warmer in less than a minute. I wonder when the fuse blew/melted and how long I have been running on 1 heater. Prior to this morning the coldest I had seen here at home was -8°, and that's since living here. Since we are setting record cold temps I wonder if the winterized fuel isn't fully up to the task for unheated and exposed filters. I didn't see any broke down diesels but most of town was only -6° or so this morning and not the -19° I ran into. Anyhow... morale of the story is trust your gauges and fuel heaters work!!!

I don't run an isolator but still wonder. The rail pressure was slow to build initially, when I had good pressure, but was hitting 20K when it should with 0 psi on the gauge. I am headed home now to check the heaters and see what's up. I'm hoping it was an indication issue but either way I didn't want to be stranded at -19° even for a few minutes.

Looks like I may need to verify operation of my fuel heaters. -15° at the house and I had 6 psi. Low but not bad for the temp. After 2 miles it was -19° and pressure was 3. Turned around and got home when it dropped to 0 psi. I still had good rail pressure but didn't want to risk it. I have winterized fuel and 2 300w grid heaters so I am fairly surprised I was having issues. It could be the sender, but??? Block heater had the coolant at 78° and intake manifold at 55°, which is in parameter for grids...when installed.

It's -18° and dropping. I'd really like to see what happens without grids in the morning but I also need to get to work. I broke down and plugged it in. Block was 130° when it was plugged in so it should be quite toasty in the morning.

Yeah, even the -4°F I saw on the way home is warm compared to that. Stanley hit -42°F this morning, that's COLD!

That's not too bad considering the winter we're having. One year it took me just over 12 hours to get from Moscow to Boise, of course 3 hours was spent in Riggins waiting for an overturned semi (on the curve coming into Riggins) to get moved. That was a LONG night.

Roads look like they have been cleared nicely overnight and we aren't due any more snow in Boise for a couple days, so traveling should be okay today. With decent roads he lives about 3 hours from Boise (two routes about the same time but 30 miles different). He'll probably choose the longer route today as it's a better drive in winter conditions.

I guess the "sport" has gone soft over the years :-)

Dragging the sled behind the quad. Drifts are 2'+ and got stuck a few times but the kids had a blast!